Read all of this before you do any of it....if you do any of it at all.

Posting a GOOD well lit photo or photos would be to your best advantage here.

IF. you loosen up the bottom bolt for the deck lid hinge and put in a thinner shim. DO NOT touch the upper bolts due to when you SLOWLY begin to tighten up the bottom bolt...it POSSIBLY can pull down the hinge and MIGHT bend the tabs where the upper portion of the hinge is attached to where it needs to be.

BEFORE you do this. put pieces of paper about one inch wide in the area of where it is raised up and THEN do the same on the other side so you can close the deck lid....and then pull on the paper and see if the tension it takes to pull out the paper is the same or not.

I can tell you that I have restored many convertibles and get the deck lid RIGHT....without a w/strip installed and when I install the w/strip...it can effect how I had the deck lid fitting.

I seriously doubt that the previous owner caused this issue due to the #4 mount bushing does not control how the deck lid fits.on a convertible.at the hinge area. That area is all fixed and the fiberglas body and upper deck panel may not move a lot....but possible enough to help you

But then again....I am commenting totally blind here.......which is why a photo is needed....I have no clue on where your 1/4: height problem is really at. And IF I can see a photo of it. All of what I just wrote may not apply at all because it is something else.

DUB

 

 

I can say that I have come across some damaged hatch lids where the person applied a few layers of fiberglass to the outside and caused it to be higher and that was found out when I gauged the good side to the bad side. I have also seen the area where the hinge is mounted to have excessive filler or fiberglass on it and I found that also.

I have also made an angle gauge out of wood that when the hatch lid is removed and the hinges are up. I can check the angle of the hinges and the location of the bolt holes and see if there is an issue in the hinge or not.

Other than that...I have nothing more to offer. Because IF I were there I could take good look and for any previous damage or other things but without being able to see it ...I am blind.

DUB

 

 

Here is what fixed my problem (post 15)...I did have to put a longer screw in one location.

Redvette2

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...djustment.html

 

Thanks for the photos.

HOW do the pieces of paper strips feel when you try to pull them out..... keeping in mind you want to put the same number of paper strips in the exact same area on the GOOD side to you have a reference to go off of.

Then peaking in under the deck lid in both areas where the paper strips were located and see if you can see any change in how this area looks in regards to the compression of the w/strip.

It all depends on how involved you want to get on this. Meaning if you can live with a shim that is up to you and do as 'Redvette2' did and move on if that fixes you issue. If you cannot live with the thick shim...then it will need more investigating to make it so you do not need a shim.

DUB

 

It defies logic but to lower the convertible top lid in a C1 you ADD shims between the hinge and lid to lower the lid. Likewise you reduce shims to raise it. Don't know if this is the same for a C3 but it worked on my 62. Hatches are hinged very similiarly. Try it and see if it works. Nothing to lose..

 

 

The shim adjustment worked on my 1968 C3 and the AIM actually shows one in the same location (front hinge bolt only) which was missing on my car. Because the hinge surface is curved where it contacts the rear deck, you can adjust the amount of shim spacing to change the angle and height the deck sits at.

Redvette2