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Ok, got an early start this morning, and finished sand ing the gelcoat, blocked it all down to 180, everything is masked and ready for primer. I was thinking of using this stuff we had at work Evercoat 4 to one high build, or slick sand we have that as well. So I think DUB meantioned something about using acetone to reduce the primer? I remember he told me to do that with the gelcoat and they told me at the place where I bought it to use styrene monomer and I think I screwed myself, because I had to deal with all that orange peel. Anyway the insides of the doors are just bare steel now , what do I do with those, some type of etching primer? Underside of the hood, should I prime that or just spray it with this black polyurethane paint that I like to use for all the semigloss., once I get the primer on there how long do you let it cure? And what grit do you start blocking it out with? These are things I need to know people, I'm doing all the hard work here , I just need your advise. Lol
Oh one other thing, this car is going to be painted 988 metallic burgundy, what colour primer should I use? Should I maybe spray it with a tinted sealer before the base coat?
Looks like you're having fun
I've used epoxy primers on several C4's and haven't had cracking issues, even on the urethane bumpers. I use DTM epoxies as a sealer under pretty much everything I spray.
I suggest you call or email the folks at SPI and use their coatings. Great people and very helpful. That is the route I decided to go. My 72 is at about the same stage awaiting primer.
SPI also puts out a technical how to paper which I found to be very informative too.
Congratulations on achieving a significant milestone!!! Looks great! Please keep us posted!
I would suggest contacting the product companies you plan to use to get the best results. I would also once you have that info use a test panel to see what you get. You bust your *** to get the car to where it is, now is not the time to just go for it. Axalta ( old Dupont) has a tech staff that I spoke to. I gave them the color they gave me the proper color sealer mixture to achieve the shade I was looking for. The also suggest the high temperature products since I was shooting in Florida. So contact the companies you are using to stay compliant.
ZIO
Evercoat Finish Sand 4:1 not Slick Sand. Gun tip 2-2.5 @ 35 psi. To be compliant 320 - 420 grit to block. Door primed, sealer, base and clear same as exterior body. SEM black matte is closest to original look of many parts like hood, engine compartment. To get correct War Bonnet Yellow shade needed to stay compliant with formula. All of the above just to get the correct color shade. Sealer color was very important as well as the correct temperatures for where you are shooting.
I suggest you call or email the folks at SPI and use their coatings. Great people and very helpful. That is the route I decided to go. My 72 is at about the same stage awaiting primer.
SPI also puts out a technical how to paper which I found to be very informative too.
Congratulations on achieving a significant milestone!!! Looks great! Please keep us posted!
Dave
I am impressed with your excellent job of taping!!
I second the opinion on the use of SPI epoxy. Also their clear coat is truly fantastic! They will answer any compatibility questions, too. I use Automotive Art paint. Great stuff. Covers like Ditzler at about 1/2 the price. A friend uses all of the above on super high dollar restomods.
You can use semi-gloss black for your 'blackout' paint, if you want. But the stock paint type is semi-FLAT (now called satin) black. Satin black will hide the surface imperfections better than semi-gloss.
If you are into finishing the surfaces of your engine compartment, then you might go with semi-gloss. Otherwise, satin black looks best, IMO.
I would suggest contacting the product companies you plan to use to get the best results. I would also once you have that info use a test panel to see what you get. You bust your *** to get the car to where it is, now is not the time to just go for it. Axalta ( old Dupont) has a tech staff that I spoke to. I gave them the color they gave me the proper color sealer mixture to achieve the shade I was looking for. The also suggest the high temperature products since I was shooting in Florida. So contact the companies you are using to stay compliant.
ZIO
Evercoat Finish Sand 4:1 not Slick Sand. Gun tip 2-2.5 @ 35 psi. To be compliant 320 - 420 grit to block.
Door primed, sealer, base and clear same as exterior body.
SEM black matte is closest to original look of many parts like hood, engine compartment.
To get correct War Bonnet Yellow shade needed to stay compliant with formula.
All of the above just to get the correct color shade. Sealer color was very important as well as the correct temperatures for where you are shooting.
this is sound advice.. use and support who supports you...whether distributor or direct to mfr.
Gelcoat sanded , ready for primer
