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A way to tell 400 from 435 at a glance. The 4 intake manifold bolts on top of the 4 pairs of intake runners. On a 400 hp engine, they are truly above the pair of runners. On a 435 engine, the kind of squeezed down between the tops of the runners.https://www.ebay.com/i/283412604132?...7179d6fffa2140. 435 hp. http://cranescorvettesupply.com/68-6...5-427-400-3x2/ 400 hp. Both are very valuable and sought after. The more original and documented the better.
Last edited by derekderek; Mar 18, 2019 at 10:42 AM.
Could be worth anywhere from $20k to $70k depending on:
1) Original drivetrain (motor, trans, rear)
2) Original GM Documentation (tank sticker, protecto plate, window sticker, etc)
3) Condition of frame and birdcage
As stated above AC was not factory installed if this is in fact a factory original L71. Dealers have been known to install it. But without documentation getting the big bucks for this car is not going to happen.
But without pics its hard to be sure of anything.
Good luck if you sell it.
Last edited by ed427vette; Mar 18, 2019 at 02:42 PM.
Thank you all for the replies. I haven't found the engine code yet, but the intake runners are in the 435 configuration, and the console says 435 as well. There is definitely an A/C system in it. When he bought it, it was used, and I don't think there were any window stickers, etc. The body plate says D06, trim 411, color 978. The VIN decoder year says 1968, but I'm unsure if that is manufacturing or model year. The registration says 1969. I'm still trying to find the engine stamp to get more clues.
Thanks for the tip, the tach redlines at 5400, so that must mean this engine is not original. Interior is tan/beige and I know it was repainted at some point to burgundy. I will get some pictures up as soon as I can.
Possible you have a 435 tripower intake on an oval port engine. Or on a pickup 454. That rectangle port intake will bolt on and seal on any big block 2000 and younger. And 502's newer than that. Check the pad in front of right head. There is engine code and build date. OTOH, if engine code and date, head, block and intake casting numbers and casting dates work with build date on trim tag, this will go a long way toward it being orig car with added AC. Also check alternator, water pump and the old exhaust manifolds. Also vin stamp on trans and rear.
Last edited by derekderek; Mar 19, 2019 at 07:29 AM.
If the tach is a 5400 redline, then the car was never a 435 car
That's just a small piece to the puzzle. You are assuming the tach is original. The original interior code is Dark Blue. Now the interior is saddle. So everything has been changed Its easier to change an entire dash than it would be to remove each gauge. The saddle interior could have come from a car that had a 5400 tach.
Took a while to find, the engine code is 3963512. I can't seem to locate the date stamp though. Thanks again to all who replied!
The date and engine code are on the block deck in front of the right cylinder head. This is my 435, July 8, 1969. I did blur out the vin, but your vin stamp should match the vin on the windshield pillar. I don't know how visible a 427 with a/c is.
You should clarify: "T Top convertible." Its either a T Top OR a convertible.
Sorry for the lack of clarity, it is a T-top, as in it has removable panels.
Originally Posted by 3X2
The date and engine code are on the block deck in front of the right cylinder head. This is my 435, July 8, 1969. I did blur out the vin, but your vin stamp should match the vin on the windshield pillar. I don't know how visible a 427 with a/c is.
Thank you for the photo, I found that spot, but it is completely smooth. I cleaned it off and looked with a very bright flashlight but it is just smooth and shiny. With the upcoming weather I'm going to finally get some photos up. Sorry for the suspense, I've just been very busy lately.
You have a desirable, 1969 427, 4-sp car; most likely it has a 400 hp engine which has been modified to make it look like a 435 hp engine. But, the tri-power setup still gives it significant value.
All of those "new" parts are 'unused' but are no longer new. If they are in good condition, that's a plus; but condition of that car is everything when it comes to its actual worth. If you don't want to keep the car for yourself, your best choice would be to take the car to a professional detailer who could clean it up, cut/buff the paint and make minor touch-ups, get rid of the surface rust, and clean up the interior. You should NOT get it repainted or put a lot of money into it. With that car, you won't break-even with increased repair costs vs. gain in selling price...except for the top-notch detailing of the car.
Once you get that stuff done, take plenty of photos to include with another request for estimated value. Then place it in the FOR SALE section of this Forum to see how you fare.
P.S. Too bad that Dad lost interest in it and left it outside...
Last edited by 7T1vette; Mar 24, 2019 at 10:34 AM.
The car is a 1968 according to the VIN - you will have to get a corrected title/registration before you can sell it (but whatever you do DO NOT let the State replace the original VIN plate or ad a new one!)
1968 Corvettes did not have an engine identifier placard on the console - that didn't start until 1969. Your engine casting number is 3963512 which is a late 1969 or 1970 block and could be either 4 bolt or 2 bolt main (L71 vs L36/L68/LS5).
Edit: Double check the VIN and paint code. If its a 68 it will begin with 194378S and if a 1969 194379S - the "8" and "9" designate the model year regardless of which calendar year it was built. Also, 978 paint code is international blue, a 68 color. Could the trim tag actually be 988 - which is Burgandy (1969) or cordovan maroon (1968)?