Hi, all. I’m changing out my upper and lower ball joints this weekend for the first time on my 1980 C3. Been researching exactly how to do this. Doesn’t seem too bad, but just wondering if anyone has any tips or pointers for a first-timer. Any comments are greatly appreciated.

 

I'm a first timer doing this too. Don't know if you're doing more than just the ball joints or not. I used an OEMTOOLS 27035 Coil Spring Compressor dropped down through the top of the shock tower. Freebie rental at most local parts stores. Also supported it with a floor jack under the lower control arm and carefully compressed the spring a little at a time. Took several turns of a thick nylon strap around the spring and frame - and that turned out to be a good idea. Using the threaded rod/washer arrangement instead of the compressor might be better because it might also help retain the spring in case of an oops.

Went with all Moog parts and got them through Amazon & Rock Auto - did a lot of comparison shopping and they turned out to work best for me with prices, shipping etc.

The ball joints in mine were not original and were bolted, not riveted. Did them on the bench not in the car and I can see how that could be a big p.i.t.a drilling or chiseling out rivets. Used a pickle fork. Removed the cotter pin but left the castle nut on but backed off several turns until I got the ball joint to release from the steering knuckle. I guess you could do one at a time - my only major concern would be that hellish spring.

 

All great tips. Thanks! I got all Moog parts, too. I was debating on taking them off the car to do them instead of doing them while still attached. Probably do it you way for sure. Again, many thanks.

 

sandblast and paint/powdercoat your a-arms and springs while you're at it.... make it look nice...
photo, bag, and tag your shims and put them exactly back in place to minimize re-allignment needs

 

I just did mine! (Photo below).

Read this thread first (not my thread, but useful):
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...all-joint.html
The tool that saved the day can be bought separately, or part of a kit, like the kit I bought from Amazon.

Though I do have an air impact wrench, DeWalt makes a great 3/4" impact that takes the 20V Max batteries that I already had an investment in. Not cheap, but there's no hose to drag around. I paid a bit less, and it came with a battery on sale at Home Depot. This made taking the old arms off a LOT easier.

Finally, I installed 550 lb springs, which were just short enough to make it easy to get the upper and lower A-Arm together without too much grief. I left the shock in during the uninstall of the old spring (much more dangerous, but it worked out), and put the new (Bilstein HD) shock in during the install of the new spring (much easier). In the photo, I'm on jackstands on top of a Kwik-Lift. Working from jackstands on the ground might actually be easier, as you can drop the other end of the lower control arm down to relieve spring pressure.

I had a set of arms prepared beforehand, so I didn't have to do anything to rebuild my old arms. My upper A-arm was new, and my lower had already had the ball-joint replaced, so I didn't have to grind any rivets, just bolt it together. Good choice on the Moog components. I had a set of ball-joints kicking around from a front-end rebuild kit, but the old set lasted for 40 years and 120K miles...

Good luck!

 

Great ideas! Thanks everybody! Pic looks awesome!