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I need to get the car up on jack stands to do some work under the car. However, I don't have a lift and I think the work will take about a month.
Can I jack one side up at a time? HF has a cross beam jack adapter but I don't want to buy it for 5 minutes of use.
Or could I put a jack on the diff and lift the whole rear end up at once then do the front one side at a time?
I don't plan to remove the wheels so I was going to put the jacks on the wheel assembly some how. Maybe the knuckle?
I will be on a flat surface, it just doesn't seem the safest when I think about it, even if I use the cross beam adapter.
I need to get the car up on jack stands to do some work under the car. However, I don't have a lift and I think the work will take about a month.
Can I jack one side up at a time? HF has a cross beam jack adapter but I don't want to buy it for 5 minutes of use.
Or could I put a jack on the diff and lift the whole rear end up at once then do the front one side at a time?
I don't plan to remove the wheels so I was going to put the jacks on the wheel assembly some how. Maybe the knuckle?
I will be on a flat surface, it just doesn't seem the safest when I think about it, even if I use the cross beam adapter.
Thanks.
That is how I lift my car, stand placement depends on what you will be working on.
Buy a set if Race Ramps. Not cheap ($2 or $250-) but light and easy to store.
I drive onto my ramps, then jack the car by the differential. To get all four wheels in the air, its only a few more inches on the front crossmember, or with two jacks.
This way, the jackstands don't see much angle change, and you may be able to leave the front wheels on the ramps (be sure to chock them).
Lifting one side at at a time works for me. I use a piece of 4 x 12 x 24 wood on a floor jack to cradle the corner of the frame @ the kick ups. In the front, I use the same piece of wood to cradle the cross member. Don't think I would ever consider lifting from the diff. Whatcha workin on.?
The weight of the rear of the car is supported by the rear spring, which is borne by the differential. I've also used a spreader bar to pick up either side of the spring (to straddle the under-diff exhaust). With two jacks, you could lift the rear frame corners ahead of the wheels.
However you do it, lifting front or back vs. side to side means lower angles, and more safety. At least that has been my experience in my garage, where lateral space is tight, but there is plenty of room front to back.
I just had my 76 up last week preparing for a total suspension overhaul and I used the frame as a jacking point one corner at a time and it seemed to work fine as I had it on jack stands as well.
I've read repeatedly that you should unlatch the t-tops, pop the hood and put the doors on the first latch before jacking to take stress off them all. I did with mine. Lifted one corner at a time at the recommended jacking points on the frame which is also where I have the jack stands. Some say they've jacked the car without popping the t-tops, hood & doors but I don't think you stand to lose anything by doing it just in case.
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when I had to use jacks I used 2 on the fron and on under the diff. I woudnt jack the front cross member unless its already dented in. YOu can jack behind the wheels but I like to jack in the lower A frames because there is more purchase on the rough surfaces. Then I went up enough to get the stands under it. Then the rear and repeat. Personally i didnt like doing it because it seems like it could fall off easily. Take your time and go slow.