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Old Jun 25, 2019 | 12:06 AM
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Default Q'Jet float level

Does anyone know of a way to check the float level on a 1978 Corvette Q'Jet without taking it all apart?
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Old Jun 25, 2019 | 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Rich123
Does anyone know of a way to check the float level on a 1978 Corvette Q'Jet without taking it all apart?
Worst thing about a QJet. You HAVE to take the top off the carb to measure float level & drop. Sorry, but that's just how they are, and it's a big reason why so many QJet-equipped cars had their carbs replaced by Holleys down the road...

A word of advice. If you DO undertake this yourself, be VERY careful to NOT overtighten the top of the unit when reinstalling it, you can very easily warp the top of the carb which will then cause internal leaks. Also, not sure what sort of problems you might be experiencing with it now, but it's advisable to check the top with a straightedge when you remove it to make sure it isn't already warped. Most already are...
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Old Jun 25, 2019 | 07:22 AM
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Yes. If your not having fuel problems its set close enough.

All joking aside, check post 2.
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by birdsmith
Worst thing about a QJet. You HAVE to take the top off the carb to measure float level & drop. Sorry, but that's just how they are, and it's a big reason why so many QJet-equipped cars had their carbs replaced by Holleys down the road...

A word of advice. If you DO undertake this yourself, be VERY careful to NOT overtighten the top of the unit when reinstalling it, you can very easily warp the top of the carb which will then cause internal leaks. Also, not sure what sort of problems you might be experiencing with it now, but it's advisable to check the top with a straightedge when you remove it to make sure it isn't already warped. Most already are...
Thank you, I think I'll check elsewhere for a solution before I do that. I took it off once about 5 years ago and I was never able to get it back together right. I had to send it to Lars and have him rebuild it.
I was hoping for an indirect way to assess if the float level is "close".

Last edited by Rich123; Jun 26, 2019 at 09:11 AM.
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Rich123
Thank you, I think I'll check elsewhere for a solution before I do that. I took it off once about 5 years ago and I was never able to get it back together right. I had to send it to Lars and have him rebuild it.
I was hoping for an indirect way to access if the float level is "close".
GM (Rochester) unfortunately did not make these carburetors really for performance purposes. When they are working correctly, they can produce a very good combination of performance and economy for a mildly-tuned street driver, but unlike a Holley, which is modular in its design, you really have to open a can of worms to disassemble a Quadrajet, not a job for the faint of heart. I eventually punched out myself and bought a properly-serialized correctly rebuilt unit for my Vette, but everybody here recommends Lars, who is the acknowledged guru...
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 09:03 AM
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...I just re-did my '68's Q-jet, disassembled about 3 times before I felt I got it right. One I thing I learned if the carb spews fuel out the needle & seat could be bad or the float is set too low. I like Q-jets, but they can have "issues".

Last edited by Paul Borowski; Jun 26, 2019 at 09:04 AM.
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Rich123
Thank you, I think I'll check elsewhere for a solution before I do that. I took it off once about 5 years ago and I was never able to get it back together right. I had to send it to Lars and have him rebuild it.
I was hoping for an indirect way to assess if the float level is "close".
Your float level is correctly set at .300". Unless someone has changed it, it is still correctly set - it cannot change itself.

Lars

Last edited by lars; Jun 26, 2019 at 05:21 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
Your float level is correctly set at .300". Unless someone has changed it, it is still correctly set - it cannot change itself.

Lars
Thanks Lars, it must be a fuel pump problem. It once in a while, after it's up to operating temps it tries to die while accelerating, then catches up and runs. It was like the bowl level was not sufficient to maintain acceleration. But that has just started and like you said, it shouldn't change.

Last edited by Rich123; Jun 26, 2019 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 10:14 PM
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It's been quite a few years since I went through that carb (2014), so if you haven't changed the fuel filter, it may be time to do so. If the problem persists, it may be a good idea to install a fuel pressure gauge at the carb inlet and see what the fuel pressure is doing when the problem occurs.

Lars
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 10:49 PM
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From: Acworth GA
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Originally Posted by lars
It's been quite a few years since I went through that carb (2014), so if you haven't changed the fuel filter, it may be time to do so. If the problem persists, it may be a good idea to install a fuel pressure gauge at the carb inlet and see what the fuel pressure is doing when the problem occurs.

Lars
I actually bought a gauge just for that but because the problem appears and then goes away, I'll need to be able to see the gauge inside the car. So I'm trying to figure out how to do that now.
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Old Jun 26, 2019 | 11:22 PM
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You do that by installing a "T" into the fuel line between the carb and your existing fuel line. Run a rubber fuel line (well clamped) off the branch T connection, to the back of your hood, and up to your windshield. Connect it to the pressure gauge and tape the gauge to the outside of your windshield so you can watch it while driving. We do it all the time for troubleshooting - no problem! (But change the fuel filter first to eliminate that $3 issue as the problem).

Lars
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
You do that by installing a "T" into the fuel line between the carb and your existing fuel line. Run a rubber fuel line (well clamped) off the branch T connection, to the back of your hood, and up to your windshield. Connect it to the pressure gauge and tape the gauge to the outside of your windshield so you can watch it while driving. We do it all the time for troubleshooting - no problem! (But change the fuel filter first to eliminate that $3 issue as the problem).

Lars
Thanks, I'll look at that again. It seemed that trying to run the line out from under the hood would clamp the line shut. I'll definitely revisit that.
When the thing first acted up, the first thing I did was pull the filter out of the carb inlet. It didn't seem to change anything.
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 06:41 AM
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You are describing a problem I had which seems very similar to yours. During a hard acceleration I would lose power and then it would go away and power would come back. I would be fine if I was light on the throttle, small power bumps. Cruised fine.
Changed carb filter- same issue, checked timing and plugs, wires, tank sender screen- problem still persisted.
Checked fuel pump and would provide enough fuel while checking, but hard acceleration it sputtered.
detemined it was the fuel pump I installed a new one and that solved the problem!
Took the old one apart and had a small tear in the diaphragm.
Bought the new one from Summit around 50 dollars
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