''right stuff'' works great,,put a gob at all 4 corners ,where the heads -meet the block,and run a bead along the front/rear block lips,,don't use the crappy rail gaskets,they tend to squeeze out and leak everytime I used them

and I put a ring around both front/rear water jackets top/bottom of gaskets too

 

Looks like you have your own car parts store. Nice collection.

I know Permatex doesn't give you much sealant in the small tube of water pump sealant pack. But I like to use that around the cyl head coolant ports because it is Glycol resistant. You may need another tube for the thermo housing.

No need for Ultra Black. The Right Stuff is better on the china walls.

You can coat both sides of the Intake gasket with either the High Tack or the Shellac or even Edelbrocks Gastinich. Your choice.

Do not apply The Right Stuff until you are sure you are ready for the final install. It sets up / dries pretty fast.
Only thing missing is a good Thread Sealant for the bolts.

So in review:
Smear the Glycol paste around head coolant ports only.
Coat bottom side of almost entire Intake gasket with your choice of tacky goo.
Place gasket in place with two bolts holding it in position. Let set several hours.
Again smear Glycol paste around gasket coolant ports only.
Again apply tacky goo on top side of almost entire gasket.
Bead of The Right Stuff on china walls. Let it become tacky.
Lay Intake Manifold into position. Leave it alone.
Wait several hours, dab of thread sealant on bolts, install bolts but don't torque yet to avoid squeeze-out.
Torque in three steps, in proper sequence using a box-end wrench. (torque wrench is not needed)

 

Thanks again for the advice, and 'step by step' explanation.
Now about thread sealant. What are good products? Maybe a little black RTV on each bolt before installing?
I will use ARP SS 12 point bolts.

 

Also, I think the one small tube of the special RTV coolant port sealant will just be enough. I only need to go around the ports front and back (total of 4).
The two exhaust crossover ports (blocked off by metal plate) won't need any RTV, just the 'high tack gasket sealant' will seal it enough I think...No?

 

Correct. Four ports, twice.

Thermo housing already installed I take it.

 

Permatex also makes a thread sealant. White plastic squeeze tube.
Almost all of the bolt holes go into the lifter valley. Without a good sealant, the bolts will eventually "wick" the oil mist up the bolt shank. That's why you may see a oil stain or puddle on the intake near a bolt head.

You will like the 12 pt bolts w/washer heads.

 

You can install trash screens. I had them put in mine when the engine was rebuilt (cheap insurance) though I think they just epoxied the screens directly over the holes.

https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/engi...ey-screen-kits


I also added a homemade lifter valley splash shield. Some stock manifolds include this, though not as effective and actually for a different purpose. The intended purpose on stock manifolds is to keep the oil from coking due to the crossover tube heat.

https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/lift...hevy-1813.html

And, you can use gaskets that seal off the exhaust crossover for a cooler intake charge.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...gaArsxEALw_wcB

 

I will not be using the crossover anymore. I have a gasket that blocks the two passages.
In that case... do I need a lifter valley splash shield?

 

Nobody needs a lifter valley splash shield, but it is a performance modification. Yes, it is still effective even with the crossover blocked because it keeps the hot oil off the bottoms of the runners as well as under the carb.