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I'm sure this has been asked before, but can't find or I'm not searching on the right keywords.
I have low and matching numbers 68 L79 Convertible and want to make some mods/changes for QOL. I was wondering how much would they affect the value of the car?
1) Transmission swap. Change from 4 speed to either a 5 or 6 speed.
2) Add powersteering. It's manual steering and I live downtown in the city; this is a major pain in the ***.
3) Changing to Side pipes. This is both cosmetic and practical as the exhaust scrapes when leaving the garage (see downtown).
The financial impact of each change is less once you get farther away from stock.
If you are buying a C3 (OK there's a maybe a thousand that would be considered an investment- I'm talking the average Joe) -
and worried about the financial impact- I really think you have missed the boat.
These cars are to enjoy- when you consider the cost of ownership- and the selling price - EVEN if you do all the work yourself- you'd be better off putting your money in a mason jar and burying it in the backyard.
I say- make the car more enjoyable for yourself- and don't look back!!
I would just keep everything I removed for the upgrades. Numbers matching may sound like the Hoyy Grail but if the car is no fun to drive, then what's the point. IMHO.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I have a 68 L79.
I haven't nodded the tranny yet but I have 69 gill inserts, 69 side exhaust, vbp front and rear suspension, added power brakes, added04 C5 seats and it's great to drive. I have the insurance set at $30k agreed value. If I was ever willing to sell it, I'm sure someone would want it for close to that price. Theres an *** for every seat. If someone doesn't want to pay your price, they don't have to buy it.
If they want numbers matching I can put all the original parts back in and they can have it for $35k.
I wouldn't worry about. Make it fun. Do what you want. If you worry about other people's opinions or values, you wouldn't be original, you wouldn't be you . You would be a clone of them
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Aug 19, 2019 at 03:12 PM.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Mod away but keep the oem parts as already noted. Numbers matching is a big deal to some. However, it's in no way any guarantee that a #'s matching engine is not worn out when a person buys the car. It's way over hyped imo. Mod the heck out of your car and enjoy it and forget about resale value and return on investment.
Yeah, Im a big believer in stock = value, but the changes you are talking about aren’t big deals, especially if you keep the original parts. The side pipes are the biggest hit because they were not available in ‘68, so there’s no question that it’s wrong.
Just don’t do something nutty like glass in the rear valance. Buy a filler panel to keep it neat but easily reversed.
Stock USED TO equal value...and it still does with 'museum' pieces. But 'stock' was something that we "old timers" prized. Present day C3 buyers want upgraded drivetrains (EFI, O/D, etc) or will buy a car with a bumb drivetrain and put one in on their own. High dollar, rare C3's are still prized in stock trim, but only the rich can afford one of those...and the fancy garage that it requires. For a driver car? It better be upgraded or it won't bring the buck$.
I would just keep everything I removed for the upgrades. Numbers matching may sound like the Hoyy Grail but if the car is no fun to drive, then what's the point. IMHO.
I'm making some changes to my car but keeping the original parts for a future owner after I leave this earth and my wife or kids sell the car.
For now I wanted more comforts for me so a new engine; new suspension; A/C; Borgeson power steering; while keeping the original engine, etc.
Do what you want as long as it doesn't involve significantly modifying your car. After all, its your car, you should enjoy driving it.
Good luck with your decisions.
David Howard
AllVettes4Me
Stock USED TO equal value...and it still does with 'museum' pieces. But 'stock' was something that we "old timers" prized. Present day C3 buyers want upgraded drivetrains (EFI, O/D, etc) or will buy a car with a bumb drivetrain and put one in on their own. High dollar, rare C3's are still prized in stock trim, but only the rich can afford one of those...and the fancy garage that it requires. For a driver car? It better be upgraded or it won't bring the buck$.
Ill disagree. There’s an increased marketability for some modified cars to a certain market that didn’t exist before, but there’s nothing relating “rich” buyers to anything but the tiniest sliver of the C3 market. A beautifully restored high option great color original small block 68-69 will double the sale of a similar car with an EFI bolted on it, a 3m vinyl “paint job” and big wheels and sell 3x as quickly. But those numbers are still $35k vs $18k, hardly anything “the rich” would be looking at. The (real) restomod cars bring big numbers but always require equally high conversion expenses. But the mid range C3 Cars, particularly the chrome bumper cars will always sell stronger in stock form as opposed to the speed shop bolt on cars that have been messed with. The rubber bumper cars are so weak in the market right now it’s hard to even tell the difference because numbers are so low, but I’d still always opt for the nice stock car. They are becoming increasingly scarce and gaining interest for that reason.
A nice desirable Corvette in desirable colors is worth more in stock condition. If you change just a thing or two you loose what it will cost to reverse the change.
If you have a less desirable Corvette, it probably does not matter as much if you change things. The financial impact of each change is less once you get farther away from stock. A mildly modified replacement engine, rubber bumper, originally silver car painted red......probably not going to hurt it.
The financial impact of each change is less once you get farther away from stock.
If you are buying a C3 (OK there's a maybe a thousand that would be considered an investment- I'm talking the average Joe) -
and worried about the financial impact- I really think you have missed the boat.
These cars are to enjoy- when you consider the cost of ownership- and the selling price - EVEN if you do all the work yourself- you'd be better off putting your money in a mason jar and burying it in the backyard.
I say- make the car more enjoyable for yourself- and don't look back!!
any mods requiring a welder or a bucket of resin and mat...think long and hard. if you can bolt it in, you can bolt in the orig piece you removed. or next owner can!
Uhhh.....Has anyone been following the vintage car auctions over the last few years? Five years ago you might see a resto-mod or two being sold and they would not meet the prices of full stock vehicles. For the same quality of car, that mantle has switched to resto-mods over stock. Am I the only one seeing reality here? The prices of stock vehicles has dropped, rather than risen....not even keeping up with any inflation factor.
As I watch the Mecum and BJ auctions it seems to me the cars (C3's and others) that bring the best money are the super restored cars, numbers matching stuff and the really nicely done Pro-Tour cars. The cars that get killed price wise are the previous owner mods that not easily fixed. 1980 era wheels always hurt value if the car is non stock to begin with. Cars with the fake steel braided radiator hose coverings always hurt value.
Again my .02 is the following as you do any mods.
1. Make the stock steering work as new or do the Borgesen conversion.
2. Make all the vacuum stuff works or convert to electric.
3. Interior wise use the seats of your choice but keep the stock seats.
4. Don't cut the console for a aftermarket radio.
5. Wheels. It's a very tough call. Either 15" ralleys or my choice was 18". The 18" in my mind fill the wheel wells nicely.
6. As said above build it as you like but really think out permanent changes.
Comparable QUALITY, folks. Apples and oranges will never equate. Compare the selling prices of comparable C3's: one a nicely done full stock car; the other a nicely done car with modern drive train and 'creature features'. Will a pristine 1970 LS6 outprice a resto-mod of that same vintage? Of course! But that's because there is intrinsic value in a relatively rare and desirable 'special case'. There are always 'exceptions to the rule';
Last edited by 7T1vette; Aug 20, 2019 at 10:13 PM.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Having watched a few recent Mecum auctions it appears that the reserve bid cars aren't selling that well. Maybe the owners bought their cars for a lot more years ago and now they aren't getting their money back. I expect it will get worse. There were two '78 Pace cars a few months back. Never registered with 6 and 13 miles, iirc. Bids reached $35K. No sale. I don't believe in this right buyer wasn't there on that particular day. The buyers follow these auctions and know when and where they will cross the block and use phones and internet to place bids. So the value of a virtually new '78 Pace car is what is bid - $35K. The owners thought not but they are dreaming if they expect to get $50K.
If you are worried about the value of the car you probably shouldnt be driving it as additional miles devalue the car and it being in an accident will devalue the car..So the question is do you value driving and enjoying the car or do you value saying I have on in my garage I wipe it down with a diaper everyday?
I would just keep everything I removed for the upgrades. Numbers matching may sound like the Hoyy Grail but if the car is no fun to drive, then what's the point. IMHO.
any mods requiring a welder or a bucket of resin and mat...think long and hard. if you can bolt it in, you can bolt in the orig piece you removed. or next owner can!
Impact of color change from original??
Well color change is reversible with some coins I suppose; not like a vin engine/4sp stamp.