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I'm currently cleaning the intake manifold surfaces. I scraped (with scraper tool) them very carefully, and cleaned everything with aceton.
Now there are still dark areas, but when I check them with my fingers they are very smooth... Is it just the age, or do these areas have to be shiny?
I would wrap a piece of 180 or 220 grit wet or dry sand paper around a block of wood and rub on it till the surface is clean. The gaskets need some roughness to grip and seal.
Red scotchbrite pads work also, but aren't as aggressive as 180 or 220 grit paper.
I'd also suggest using a printo-seal type gasket.
Jeff
I would wrap a piece of 180 or 220 grit wet or dry sand paper around a block of wood and rub on it till the surface is clean. The gaskets need some roughness to grip and seal.
Red scotchbrite pads work also, but aren't as aggressive as 180 or 220 grit paper.
I'd also suggest using a printo-seal type gasket.
Jeff
Ok, thanks.
I've got stock heads (iron heads). The intake will be a performer 2101.
I will use Fel-Pro 1204 gaskets, as recommended on the forum. Don't know if this a print-o-seal...
The 1204 is the only gaskets that block the heat crossover (I want that).
Last edited by Novusuhu; Aug 24, 2019 at 06:59 PM.
That's just some residue from carbon in the exhaust going thru the heat riser channel. You should decide if you want to put the heat riser blocker plates in place to keep the hot exhaust gasses from going under the carb (or not). If you don't install them, the paint usually gets burnt off the intake manifold on both sides of the carb. If you DO install them, car will be on 'fast idle' for a bit longer than usual. But that dark surface will cause you no problem if you can't easily scrape it off. Yes, you can sand it off; but you don't NEED to.
then what i do is use the rubber china wall gasket. sealer around water passages under gasket and set manifold on top. 2 hours later remove manifold and gasket is sealed down where it is gonna stay. no doubts about if it has shifted. now replace china wall gaskets with sealer and seal top of water ports.
Last edited by derekderek; Aug 25, 2019 at 04:50 AM.
Yes the old iron has stain that will remain ... Heads look clean enough ... if you're not comfortable, wipe with a white rag & acetone until rag itself is clean.
Good God, No sandpaper! You really want thousands of pieces of sand in your lubricating system? Think about it.
Apparently you don't know how to clean up the mess when you are done?
I guess 30 years as a professional service tech has taught me how to properly clean sealing surfaces and the associated clean up afterwards.
Sorry that I assumed others would be able to clean a sealing surface and clean up the mess afterwards.
OP. I guess I should have stipulated that you would have to thoroughly clean the work area, and lay out rags etc.. to keep the mess contained.
Good luck. I appolgize for telling you about accepted service practices.
When building engines or rebuilding engines, its common practice to avoid getting even such particles like paper towel lint into any part of the engine. Let alone an abrasive material such as sandpaper.
No, not my accepted service practice.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 25, 2019 at 04:27 PM.
I use the 3M Rolex bristle discs....lay a towel in the valley pan and wad small rags for each port.....
The 3M discs are the best damn thing ever invented.
They were designed by 3M for Chrysler during the 100% failure rate Dodge Neon 2.0l head gasket dilemma in 1999/2000.
They will not remove material if you pick the correct color for the job....I like green for cast iron....white for aluminum.....they are a must for any garage mechanic.
When finished, remove the rags from the ports first and then the towel....carefully.....if you get anything in the valley....shop vac it out then blow with some compressed air.....
Clean intake surfaces
