When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (stock)
1971 windshield molding gap
Looks like water can get in where the slots are With top on
I’m still discovering things about the 71 coupe I bought. Looks like the windshield was replaced and I’m not sure how good a job they did. I can see a pretty good gap at the top of the windshield where it meets the T-Top... I’m worried about water getting in there. Please have a look at the picks. Can this be adjusted, do I need to reset the windshield? With the T-Top on you can’t see the gap but I’m not sure if it covers it enough to stop water from getting in.
That gap was filled with a silver/gray caulking material. The last time I have heard were it could be purchased was at a RV dealers service/parts. But if you are not having it judged you can use 3M black strip sealer any auto body paint store should have it on hand..
That is a very wide gap. There should be retainer clips screwed to the upper frame that hold the molding in place closer to the frame. Is the stainless strip inside the clips? If the clips are in place and the strip is in the clips it's also possible the tabs on the upper windshield trim strip have been bent out or back allowing the strip to sag forward.
I have found that the best sealer that replicates the original gray caulk is called VersaChem Mega Grey O.E.M. Import Gasket Maker. I have used this on mine after cleaning up the frame and replacing the glass and it looks factory but seals much better.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Sep 27, 2019 at 08:07 PM.
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (stock)
Originally Posted by CanadaGrant
That is a very wide gap. There should be retainer clips screwed to the upper frame that hold the molding in place closer to the frame. Is the stainless strip inside the clips? If the clips are in place and the strip is in the clips it's also possible the tabs on the upper windshield trim strip have been bent out or back allowing the strip to sag forward.
I have found that the best sealer that replicates the original gray caulk is called VersaChem Mega Grey O.E.M. Import Gasket Maker. I have used this on mine after cleaning up the frame and replacing the glass and it looks factory but seals much better.
Thanks for responding, I’ll see if I can find some mega grey here in Spain. Any idea how to fix the gap?
Hi Dave. On the gap, check to see if the clips like below are actually installed in each gap of the upper T-top trim where it meets the thin upper windshield molding. They HAVE to go in before the glass as the screw is behind the upper glass edge. Look down at each notch in the upper t-top stainless and see if the clips are screwed to the steel upper windshield frame. If the clips are there, is the upper windshield trim actually installed in the clip or or is it resting in front of it? If the clips are installed tight against the frame and the upper W/S stainless is in the clip then I would suspect the tangs on the upper trim were bent back on removal allowing the trim piece to sag forward. You would have to remove the trim piece and reduce the angle between the tabs or tangs and the surface of the trim or correcting the tabs that have been bent out. You can do this by squeezing them back in with your hands. No tools. If the clips are not there or are loose you will probably have to remove the glass but the stainless can also be out of the clips or the tabs bent out when they were removed. On the bottom pic you can see the trim clips that hold the thin W/S stainless just behind the upper edge of the glass and why it would be hard to remove or install with the glass in place.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Sep 28, 2019 at 06:22 PM.
1971 windshield molding gap
