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I bought this car in 1992 and drive it as my daily driver for 4-5 years but had a minor bumper incident and decided to get it painted. Told the guy I was in no hurry and got it back about 6 years later, lol. Anyway, the door locks never worked great and finally stopped working. Since it was always in a garage and rarely driven at that point I decided it didn’t matter. Fast forward 10 years. Still garage kept and hasn’t run for 6-7 years but I change the oil emptied gas Etc. Now I’m getting it street worthy.
I ordered a bunch of stuff from Ecklers and started this week. Today I pulled the window out replaced the door jam latch and interior latch and lock cylinder with all new parts. Door shuts and locks perfect but now won’t align the exterior panels. Seems to sag and doesn’t want to easily close no matter what I do to adjust the latch catching mechanism in the door sill.
Do do I need new hinges? How do those bushing kits work?
I bought this car in 1992 and drive it as my daily driver for 4-5 years but had a minor bumper incident and decided to get it painted. Told the guy I was in no hurry and got it back about 6 years later, lol. Anyway, the door locks never worked great and finally stopped working. Since it was always in a garage and rarely driven at that point I decided it didn’t matter. Fast forward 10 years. Still garage kept and hasn’t run for 6-7 years but I change the oil emptied gas Etc. Now I’m getting it street worthy.
I ordered a bunch of stuff from Ecklers and started this week. Today I pulled the window out replaced the door jam latch and interior latch and lock cylinder with all new parts. Door shuts and locks perfect but now won’t align the exterior panels. Seems to sag and doesn’t want to easily close no matter what I do to adjust the latch catching mechanism in the door sill.
Do do I need new hinges? How do those bushing kits work?
to check to see if your hinge bushes are worn , open the door , then hold it by the end and take the weight of the door (lift it !) until the car starts to rise . There shouldn't be any play ,if you feel it bumping your bushes are worn .
To get them out ,get the spring off first ,then you have to find something to rest the door on securely , I have a purpose built frame with an incorporated jack so I can do it by myself , If I have help I just use a crate with a big towel layered on it so it holds the weight . With my vettes I could tap the hinge pin(s) up and out with out disturbing both parts where they're bolted onto pillar and door . Helper holds the door , they are heavy so watch it!!! Pin comes out then tap/punch out bushes , or what's left of them sometimes.
But be extra careful with the top hinge pin , sometimes (I have read ) they don't clear the edge of the fibreglass going up .
Also make sure you have enough power window cable free so you can pull the door clear a bit to work in there . I usually clean that area up while I have the chance .
Very helpful and thank you. It does move up about 1/4”. Odd thing is that it shut fairly well with the old latch. Regardless I’ll order new bushings and pins.
Cleaned up the rails with mineral spirits and vinagar took off most of the rust. The short lateral bar was solid rust. Going to soak it overnight and it should be good.
They were very gummed up with 44 years of dirt grease etc. should be slicker than snot? Lol. When back in.
Is is there anything better than lithium grease for these?
Last edited by Corvettedave02; Oct 7, 2019 at 09:31 PM.
While I'm at it I ordered a pin and bushing kit. I think I might also sand and spray the inside of the doors and jams...Ive never been very happy with the quality of paint work in that area.
Last edited by Corvettedave02; Oct 7, 2019 at 09:28 PM.
More progress today. Got the DS door and hinges off. Hinges are soaking in vinegar for a day or two. Had to take the dash out do...ordered a new dash (pretty much everything). and tach and console and pedals and bulbs light switch etc. figured I would do all the things that irritate me.
anyway, Por15 to the backside of the rails and a spot on the inner door panel. Metal etched first. I assume paint would be bad on the regulator side of the rails. I also bought new regulators. The old ones had a lot of play in them and decided not to rebuild them.
I’m not sure what you are asking? Here are pics of the assembly manual as well as what “I think” is the assembly of the window system. I was missing some bolts for the window but I think I have it figured out.
Is it just one bolt inside the door that holds the outside door opening assembly? Still lurking, lol. Thanks.
There's two nuts to tighten down on the exterior handle piece ,from inside the door , ONE is the worse nut of the whole door to get at IMO.
Also just looking at Dave02;s picture , the link (6) that joins onto the handle (7) , doesn't seem to show the tiny clip that goes onto that join , without it on there the rod can bind up and you have trouble opening that door
I can’t figure out if the bolt/washer stack that bolts the rail to the window is correct. The bar wobbles a bit when tight so I don’t think this is correct. May have to disassemble the passenger side window to check.
I can’t figure out if the bolt/washer stack that bolts the rail to the window is correct. The bar wobbles a bit when tight so I don’t think this is correct. May have to disassemble the passenger side window to check.
That looks same as the assembly drawing, first pic in post 15 , just remember the window will change its angle a touch as it goes up , IMO only but a little wobble is probably necessary , as long as it doesn't turn into a rattle !
EDIT : I just checked my spare glass here and that bolt is supposed to have a full thread so the nut can get tightened down firmly to the glass
Thanks Bazza77. I just took a picture of the left side and there is no metal washer and it’s tight against the window. Not sure if it’s unmolested though...
Spoiler
Last edited by Corvettedave02; Oct 13, 2019 at 07:23 PM.
‘76 Door rebuilding
