Trying to reinstall one of the shocks on my '80, which you'd think would be only slightly more involved than putting gas in the tank. I can't push the bolt all the way through the top/upper shock bracket. I can get it through the front side hole but not the back side. The problem is the center sleeve through the top bushing isn't lining up with both holes in the bracket and there isn't enough room to move the shock to get it to line up - i.e. so the end of the bolt is just hitting the inside of the bracket on the back side, not going through the hole.

I can't be the only person who's run into this. Flipping it around makes no difference. I'm thinking trying to get something above the shock bushing housing to pry it downward but so far haven't had luck, nothing I have lying around is short enough to be able to move around and strong enough and the right shape to press straight down on the bushing housing to move it the maybe 1/16" or so to allow the bolt to go through - is there a specific tool made for this?

Below is a rough, mouse-drawn diagram with a rear view of what's going on.

---Edit - Problem solved ---

I made a midnight run to Walmart and got an 8-inch pry tool with an angled nose that I got in over the top of the bushing housing and it got the job done - pushed it down enough for the bolt to get into the hole. Jayzus what a stupid PITA.

 

Install the top end of the shock first and then with the nut on loose just push the lower end forward and it will slide right on to the lower mount. Upper before lower. The slight offset in the upper mount keeps constant tension on the rubber bushings after everything is tightened up. They did the same with the stock rear strut rods. Slightly offset to the mounts for constant tension on the rubber.

 

I've reworded my original post and cleaned up the drawing a bit to hopefully more clearly convey what's going on. I can't push the bolt through the back hole to *get* the nut on it, that's the problem. It's bumping against the inside of the bracket.

 

You will find it goes on if the bottom of the shock is not connected.

 

Nope, that's how I've been trying to put it on. Bottom not connected yet.

 

I made a midnight run to Walmart and got an 8-inch pry tool with an angled nose that I got in over the top of the bushing housing and it got the job done - it pushed it down enough for the bolt to get into the hole.

 

When I last changed mine, I had my car on a quick jack, and a regular floor jack under the rear wheel on the side I was working on. I used the floor jack under the wheel to gently raise/lower the wheel which helped ease the bolt into place.

 

That problem is just lack of experience , next time you will have no issues now that you know. I use pry bars and lots of line up tools . You would think it would just go right in but nothing is easy ! I also use a 3/8 gun to pull it in by the threads sometimes you can pry it straight with the socket and push.

 

That bolt gets inserted from the outside of the bracket and nut on the inside. Not sure you can even get it installed the other way. It's possible that the bracket has been bent or damaged so that the holes don't line up properly. But, you could check that by putting a Phillips screwdriver in that bracket to see if it becomes skewed. If that's the case, the bracket needs to be "adjusted".

 

the holes on the frame bracket line up the bracket is not bent it's the shock bushing sleeve that binds a little and is a little work to get it straight , I know exactly what he is talking about I did another shock change on my car last month . I would think factory shocks slip in better. On other cars I would tap the bracket to spread it didn't need to on the vette just some prying was necessary .

 

Not unless you were to cut a hole in the side of the body from the inside.

But even if you did, you'd still have the same problem....plus a pointless hole in your 'Vette.

Nothing seems damaged on the bracket, seems that's just the way it is. Or it might be that the sleeve in this particular shock bushing isn't quite parallel. Fortunately I didn't take out the top bolt on the other shock after discovering you don't have to disconnect the top to get it off the bottom shock mount.

 

Been a few years but clearly recall same problem. Poncho’s suggestion using jack to raise the wheel worked because compressing the shock changes the angle that is not allowing the alignment of the bracket with the shock.