Seat Back replacement
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 276
Likes: 87
From: Melville, NY
Seat Back replacement
I'm thinking of replacing the seat backs (ABS plastic) on my 1970, as there is a small crack in the drivers and some scratches on the passenger. A bunch of sites seem to offer them, and prices seem to run from around $100 to $170 for the set. Someone suggested buying from https://alknochinteriors.com (which also happens to be the most expensive) as they manufacture and sell top quality parts. Anyone have experience with Al Knoch or suggest any of the other sellers?
Also, are there any tricks regarding installation? I saw one video but it only showed removing the old seat back (by removing the two screws at the bottom and lifting and sliding it off), but did not show installing the replacement.
Thanks!
Also, are there any tricks regarding installation? I saw one video but it only showed removing the old seat back (by removing the two screws at the bottom and lifting and sliding it off), but did not show installing the replacement.
Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,161
Likes: 239
From: Southern CALIFORNIA
around 25:00 min mark. if your back foam is puffy you want to try and protect the clip seam, so the vinyl and stitching doesnt get marred, not really necesary just an extra precaution.
Last edited by NONN37; Jan 29, 2020 at 06:32 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 417
From: Central Texas
I replaced the foam, covers and seat backs on my '70 last year, bought everything from Wilcox and very pleased.
https://willcoxcorvette.com/interior?cat=116
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...clip-location/
https://willcoxcorvette.com/interior?cat=116
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...clip-location/
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 276
Likes: 87
From: Melville, NY
around 25:00 min mark. if your back foam is puffy you want to try and protect the clip seam, so the vinyl and stitching doesnt get marred, not really necesary just an extra precaution.
https://youtu.be/yL7EzcCRgNw?t=1500
Thanks for the video. Install looks easy enough.
I'm not looking to spend more than I need to on the seat back, but do want something that looks good and is of decent quality.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 276
Likes: 87
From: Melville, NY
I replaced the foam, covers and seat backs on my '70 last year, bought everything from Wilcox and very pleased.
https://willcoxcorvette.com/interior?cat=116
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...clip-location/
https://willcoxcorvette.com/interior?cat=116
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...clip-location/
Thanks for the links!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Remove the seat backs, reinforce the crack on the inside, then fill any crack line and/or scratches with some polyester body filler (carefully and with very small tools or toothpicks). When the surfaces look right, spray a fresh coat of matching vinyl dye on them and they will look better than the rest of your interior parts. Oop! I'm thinking project "creep", here....
Spending that kind of money to replace original parts with minor surface flaws is, well, not the best choice for spending your funds, IMO.
Spending that kind of money to replace original parts with minor surface flaws is, well, not the best choice for spending your funds, IMO.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 276
Likes: 87
From: Melville, NY
Remove the seat backs, reinforce the crack on the inside, then fill any crack line and/or scratches with some polyester body filler (carefully and with very small tools or toothpicks). When the surfaces look right, spray a fresh coat of matching vinyl dye on them and they will look better than the rest of your interior parts. Oop! I'm thinking project "creep", here....
Spending that kind of money to replace original parts with minor surface flaws is, well, not the best choice for spending your funds, IMO.
Spending that kind of money to replace original parts with minor surface flaws is, well, not the best choice for spending your funds, IMO.
In this age of discard and replace, I like your suggestion to repair and might give it a shot. Cost of bondo/epoxy, primer, and dye will probably run around $50 which is 1/2 to 1/3 the cost to replace.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Not to mention that you will still have the 'original' parts, you will have more dye left for other interior needs, and you get the satisfaction of "doing it yourself".
Potential downside: It doesn't come out to your satisfaction and you end up buying new panels.
Keep in mind that you can do the repairs for very little cost and prove them satisfactory BEFORE you spend any money on vinyl dye. Small can of Bondo is a few dollars. Stick of JB Weld putty epoxy is less than $10.
Potential downside: It doesn't come out to your satisfaction and you end up buying new panels.
Keep in mind that you can do the repairs for very little cost and prove them satisfactory BEFORE you spend any money on vinyl dye. Small can of Bondo is a few dollars. Stick of JB Weld putty epoxy is less than $10.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 276
Likes: 87
From: Melville, NY
Not to mention that you will still have the 'original' parts, you will have more dye left for other interior needs, and you get the satisfaction of "doing it yourself".
Potential downside: It doesn't come out to your satisfaction and you end up buying new panels.
Keep in mind that you can do the repairs for very little cost and prove them satisfactory BEFORE you spend any money on vinyl dye. Small can of Bondo is a few dollars. Stick of JB Weld putty epoxy is less than $10.
Potential downside: It doesn't come out to your satisfaction and you end up buying new panels.
Keep in mind that you can do the repairs for very little cost and prove them satisfactory BEFORE you spend any money on vinyl dye. Small can of Bondo is a few dollars. Stick of JB Weld putty epoxy is less than $10.
Just picked up some JB Weld and already have the Bondo.
From your experience, along with the Black Dye, do you recommend using a Promoter/Adhesive and Clear Coat? Since I'm not changing the color, I'm assuming I don't need a Primer?
Also, is there a manufacturer you recommend for the most correct color match?
Thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I prefer SEM ColorCoat vinyl dye. And I MUCH prefer to have it mixed to match in liquid form at a pro auto body paint supply store, rather than ANY rattle can stuff. SEM spray cans are good, but the finish doesn't seem right to me. Also, liquid dye can be saved for future projects; and 1 pint of liquid dye is equivalent to about 6 cans of spray dye. Liquid dye is much more economical. Easy to spray with your equipment or with a PreVal gas/bottle sprayer (about $10) which you can buy at the paint store or at about any regular paint supply store (ie, Sherwin-Williams). It does a great job with SEM liquid dye.
If you clean the part surfaces with detergent to get ALL of the old Armor-All (
) and crap off of them, then rinse really well to get all soap residue off, you won't need a surface adhesion promoter...or, at least, I've never used one and have never had ANY problems afterward. But, that choice is yours, since it's your project. Good luck. 
If you clean the part surfaces with detergent to get ALL of the old Armor-All (
) and crap off of them, then rinse really well to get all soap residue off, you won't need a surface adhesion promoter...or, at least, I've never used one and have never had ANY problems afterward. But, that choice is yours, since it's your project. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 276
Likes: 87
From: Melville, NY
I prefer SEM ColorCoat vinyl dye. And I MUCH prefer to have it mixed to match in liquid form at a pro auto body paint supply store, rather than ANY rattle can stuff. SEM spray cans are good, but the finish doesn't seem right to me. Also, liquid dye can be saved for future projects; and 1 pint of liquid dye is equivalent to about 6 cans of spray dye. Liquid dye is much more economical. Easy to spray with your equipment or with a PreVal gas/bottle sprayer (about $10) which you can buy at the paint store or at about any regular paint supply store (ie, Sherwin-Williams). It does a great job with SEM liquid dye.
If you clean the part surfaces with detergent to get ALL of the old Armor-All () and crap off of them, then rinse really well to get all soap residue off, you won't need a surface adhesion promoter...or, at least, I've never used one and have never had ANY problems afterward. But, that choice is yours, since it's your project. Good luck.
If you clean the part surfaces with detergent to get ALL of the old Armor-All (
) and crap off of them, then rinse really well to get all soap residue off, you won't need a surface adhesion promoter...or, at least, I've never used one and have never had ANY problems afterward. But, that choice is yours, since it's your project. Good luck.