When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Was it running when it arrived at shop? If so, how well ?
Who was last to have hands on header bolts ?
certainly Looks like a header bolt ... reduced head size w/ narrow flange ... perhaps was used as an intake bolt.
I think it may be possible for it to have "gone" thru carb, laid on intake plenum, then gotten past an intake ... if it were mine, I'd test that route as well as past exhaust valve
Was it running when it arrived at shop? If so, how well ?
Who was last to have hands on header bolts ?
certainly Looks like a header bolt ... reduced head size w/ narrow flange ... perhaps was used as an intake bolt.
I think it may be possible for it to have "gone" thru carb, laid on intake plenum, then gotten past an intake ... if it were mine, I'd test that route as well as past exhaust valve
I was the one who installed the headers... but I didn’t have any extra bolts. It spent some time waiting while at the shop, but it was out of the way. It was running well! I was doing the waterpump myself and bought plugs and wires and more or less said “if ya wanna mount em while I’m gone go for it”
Ever see a mechanic use an air cleaner lid or the air cleaner itself for a parts tray?
It happens.
That bolt could have been in the intake since that motor was installed last April and just found its way to doing the damage.
You posted it is a create motor.
Buy another one, swap it out and move forward.
Even trying to figure out how or who adds additional stress to the situation.
It's still winter and just imagine how much enjoyment you'll get this spring with a new motor and maybe even one with a little more hp!
Good luck.
Ouch! Sorry dude, that hurts to look at. I won't hazard a guess but I'll be following this whodunit.
Unless you've got a Barrett Jackson car, I'd ignore all this nonsense about numbers matching value. I'd much rather have a new GM crate motor than an iffy rebuilt hand grenade.
Old man
While everyone seems to think that was an exhaust bolt, which it could very well be, this pic shows a bolt that came with an Edelbrock intake manifold in the box that I recently installed in a customer’s vehicle (customer chose ARP bolts for the install). It also looks very similar. Just saying. And as far as just installing a new crate engine, that’s fine if you have 4 grand just lying around. But not everybody does.
While everyone seems to think that was an exhaust bolt, which it could very well be, this pic shows a bolt that came with an Edelbrock intake manifold in the box that I recently installed in a customer’s vehicle (customer chose ARP bolts for the install). It also looks very similar. Just saying. And as far as just installing a new crate engine, that’s fine if you have 4 grand just lying around. But not everybody does.
We did install a new intake manifold on the motor when we installed it, but surely it would’ve shown itself way before now right?
if I go new motor route I’ll probably just wind up getting a vortec and essentially LS swap it.
cheaper than a crate motor and with an intake I can keep the carb.
While everyone seems to think that was an exhaust bolt, which it could very well be, this pic shows a bolt that came with an Edelbrock intake manifold in the box that I recently installed in a customer’s vehicle (customer chose ARP bolts for the install). It also looks very similar. Just saying. And as far as just installing a new crate engine, that’s fine if you have 4 grand just lying around. But not everybody does.
^^^ this ^^^ That's it ... most intakes have some sort of web/grid pattern cast into plenum which could nest a small bolt for a while.
I have a porsche 924 that I'm going to sell to offset the costs, but I'm keeping the car, going to throw an LS and a manual gearbox in. Might as well go all-out at this point.
I have a porsche 924 that I'm going to sell to offset the costs, but I'm keeping the car, going to throw an LS and a manual gearbox in. Might as well go all-out at this point.
I for one, think this is a terrible decision.....you don't just "throw" an LS in a C3.......you will have WAY more into it when you are through than just rebuilding the original engine.
I am assuming the engine is a 350/200 L-48. You could go roller cam, Trick Flow 175cc "camelback" heads, a nice intake and carb setup and have a real runner......
By the time you buy the LS engine, the mounts, headers, flywheel, exhaust, electric fuel pump and system as well as the corresponding electronics to run it all....you will be north of $5000 easy.....THEN you have to get someone to wire the EFI and tune it........
The internet idiots and magazine hype make it sound like installing an LS is a weekend job.....not by a long shot. Sure they make great power.....but if it isn't done perfectly with outstanding attention to detail throughout......the car will decrease value......
Rebuild the 350.....even stroke it to 383 if you want but it came out of that hole so stick it back in.
Now back to the bolt.......it either damaged the I or E valve going in.......my money is on the intake.......
I for one, think this is a terrible decision.....you don't just "throw" an LS in a C3.......you will have WAY more into it when you are through than just rebuilding the original engine.
I am assuming the engine is a 350/200 L-48. You could go roller cam, Trick Flow 175cc "camelback" heads, a nice intake and carb setup and have a real runner......
By the time you buy the LS engine, the mounts, headers, flywheel, exhaust, electric fuel pump and system as well as the corresponding electronics to run it all....you will be north of $5000 easy.....THEN you have to get someone to wire the EFI and tune it........
The internet idiots and magazine hype make it sound like installing an LS is a weekend job.....not by a long shot. Sure they make great power.....but if it isn't done perfectly with outstanding attention to detail throughout......the car will decrease value......
Rebuild the 350.....even stroke it to 383 if you want but it came out of that hole so stick it back in.
Now back to the bolt.......it either damaged the I or E valve going in.......my money is on the intake.......
Jebby
All the sites made it out to be very easy, you're correct, hence why I had the idea. Guess I'll stick to the ol' 350.
Just my.02.
Since the engine has to come out anyway I would disassemble it down to the short block and cart it off the your local machine shop and see if a sleeve is a good option. My local machine shop has sleeved some badly damaged cylinders with really good results. I assume the cylinder head is toast as well? If they are aluminum sometimes they can be repaired. Cast iron heads not so much. With that big of interference of the bolt it may of bent the crank. Again a good machine shop can check that stuff.
If the block is un-useable there still a lot of good parts left in the engine so maybe a new block and reuse your crank and the good rods and pistons? Just trying to save a few bucks but still have good a engine when you are done.
Bummer about what happen.
I can't see a bolt of that size getting sucked back up thru the header tube. Also having a bolt like roll around in the intake for some time before falling into a port seems unlikely. Does some one not like you?
Assuming it was some one who wanted to do this to the OP.
The person would need to break into the car, pop the hood, remove the air cleaner, drop in the bolt, replace the air cleaner, close the hood and close the door without being noticed.
Who has the opportunity and forethought to do that?
It would be easier to dump sugar or another chemical into the tank and walk away!
Last edited by OldCarBum; Feb 13, 2020 at 12:38 AM.
do you have any pictures of the bottom side of the head
