Bleeding my brakes
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
You can install a new distribution block. But be aware that when you bleed the brakes, you will essentially be working with an INTENTIONAL leak in the brake system. Every time you crack a bleeder valve open, it is a leak in that portion of the brake system. And when you have an open bleeder and you depress the brake pedal to push fluid through the system, the distribution block can 'read' that as a leak and move that shuttle valve to seal off the line again. SOOOO, depress the brake pedal s-l-o-w-l-y, rather than quickly, such that the shuttle valve will NOT move and cause you more problems.
P.S. Not sure why you want to purchase a new valve, just because the valve is shifted. Moving it back to center is a 'normal' process after fixing a brake system leak.
P.S. Not sure why you want to purchase a new valve, just because the valve is shifted. Moving it back to center is a 'normal' process after fixing a brake system leak.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
If anyone wants to see the internals of the "ComboProp", just click on my profile, then photo albums, brake bleeding.
If the little piston is stuck in the valve, usually a real quick jab to the brake pedal will self-center it regardless if the front bleeders are open. Once its centered the little tool can be installed and no brake fluid will come when removing the switch. The little tool keeps people from getting into trouble pumping the brake pedal while trying to bleed the system.
Some where along the many years, the ComboProp warning switch was changed. So its important to purchase the correct year parts. Or you will have to modify the incorrect ones.
If the little piston is stuck in the valve, usually a real quick jab to the brake pedal will self-center it regardless if the front bleeders are open. Once its centered the little tool can be installed and no brake fluid will come when removing the switch. The little tool keeps people from getting into trouble pumping the brake pedal while trying to bleed the system.
Some where along the many years, the ComboProp warning switch was changed. So its important to purchase the correct year parts. Or you will have to modify the incorrect ones.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 360
Likes: 147
If anyone wants to see the internals of the "ComboProp", just click on my profile, then photo albums, brake bleeding.
If the little piston is stuck in the valve, usually a real quick jab to the brake pedal will self-center it regardless if the front bleeders are open. Once its centered the little tool can be installed and no brake fluid will come when removing the switch. The little tool keeps people from getting into trouble pumping the brake pedal while trying to bleed the system.
Some where along the many years, the ComboProp warning switch was changed. So its important to purchase the correct year parts. Or you will have to modify the incorrect ones.
If the little piston is stuck in the valve, usually a real quick jab to the brake pedal will self-center it regardless if the front bleeders are open. Once its centered the little tool can be installed and no brake fluid will come when removing the switch. The little tool keeps people from getting into trouble pumping the brake pedal while trying to bleed the system.
Some where along the many years, the ComboProp warning switch was changed. So its important to purchase the correct year parts. Or you will have to modify the incorrect ones.
The Motive power bleeder that I bought that attaches to the master cylinder is the best thing that I've ever bought. I've bought several power bleeders that work from the calipers and they all suck as far as I'm concerned. Most of them are cheap and do not seal, and thereby make bleeding more tiresome than just hearing my wife bitch while I have her pump the brakes, LOL. If I could just get past this proportioning valve thing I'd be back on the road with a completely new, bumper to bumper brake system.
Thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
How do you know the ComboProp valve piston is centered? The little black tool will thread all the way in.
In my photo album, you will see the switch removed and the tool is in its place.
When I bought the tool, I thought that would help me to use the pedal method for bleeding. That method is the worst of the five methods:
Pedal method
Vacuum method
Pressure method
Gravity method
Let someone else do it method
In your case, just leave the tool in place, bleed the rears with gravity only. If you have six clear hoses / bottles, you can do all six bleeders in the back at once. Its a slow-slow process. Keep the MC full.
In my photo album, you will see the switch removed and the tool is in its place.
When I bought the tool, I thought that would help me to use the pedal method for bleeding. That method is the worst of the five methods:
Pedal method
Vacuum method
Pressure method
Gravity method
Let someone else do it method
In your case, just leave the tool in place, bleed the rears with gravity only. If you have six clear hoses / bottles, you can do all six bleeders in the back at once. Its a slow-slow process. Keep the MC full.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Feb 25, 2020 at 08:51 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 360
Likes: 147
Hey good news! I got under it tonight with a test light. I had my wife pump the brakes a few times and the test light did NOT come on, unless I just touched the side of the metal distribution block. Per the advice from POL (vendor for the bleeder tool) I had hooked my test light to the positive side of the battery. Anyway, I took the sensor out of the block, and tested to see if it would come on and go off by pushing the plunger in/out - it would light ONLY if the plunger was depressed, implying that if the valve was either way past center, the circuit would light, but in the center it would be normal. So, by HeadsUP's advice, I threaded the bleeder tool into the block and voila', it screwed all the way down. I'm out of time for tonight, but I think I have a victory here! I have the bleeder tool in all the way, the plunger must be centered, and I can proceed this weekend with bleeding the dang brakes. Woohoo!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Hey good news! I got under it tonight with a test light. I had my wife pump the brakes a few times and the test light did NOT come on, unless I just touched the side of the metal distribution block. Per the advice from POL (vendor for the bleeder tool) I had hooked my test light to the positive side of the battery. Anyway, I took the sensor out of the block, and tested to see if it would come on and go off by pushing the plunger in/out - it would light ONLY if the plunger was depressed, implying that if the valve was either way past center, the circuit would light, but in the center it would be normal. So, by HeadsUP's advice, I threaded the bleeder tool into the block and voila', it screwed all the way down. I'm out of time for tonight, but I think I have a victory here! I have the bleeder tool in all the way, the plunger must be centered, and I can proceed this weekend with bleeding the dang brakes. Woohoo!