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Hi All,
getting ready to set my windshield, want to make sure I’ve got everything ready. I’ve got the windshield header corner chrome installed, and I’ve got new trim clips installed across the top. Spacers are ready to go in, and I’ve done two dry-fits. Anything else that I need to install before setting the glass? Also, I don’t see that I have any provisions for lower stops?? Seems there should be something at the bottom to maintain placement, am I missing something? Any help appreciated, thanks
Haven't watched the videos- don't know if this was addressed-
Just realize the most glass out there is THINNER than the original glass-
Original was about .275" thick and my new one was about .205" I used 3/8" strips under the glass to get the spacing between the glass and trim correct.
Haven't watched the videos- don't know if this was addressed-
Just realize the most glass out there is THINNER than the original glass-
Original was about .275" thick and my new one was about .205" I used 3/8" strips under the glass to get the spacing between the glass and trim correct.
Richard
Yes that is true. Get yourself some paint sticks it's great for centering the glass...use them on the side to help center the glass is another tip I can offer. I did it twice, it's not hard, seriously the videos really helped.
Did you have to push out hard to get your trim to flush up? On mine, it looks like 3/8 would be a hair too high without mashing it pretty good, but I may be underestimating the amount that the butyl will mash down.
The other route you could consider would be urethane. Get some rubber stand-off blocks (from a glass place) to space the glass correctly prior to laying out the adhesive and test ahead of time. You cut a 'V' and set a bead around the frame. Urethane is a lot stronger.
Yes, I thought about urethane, and have set quite a few windshields with it, just didn’t want to have to put a dam in to keep the urethane from being seen. Not much room for error on this glass, want to make sure it looks nice from the inside.
Definitely understand. Like you, I've done them both ways. I'm facing the same decision soon too on a new windshield install. IDK if a guy would need a huge amount on one shot or urethane, if ya put a little on the windshield (trace off where you want the bead) and a bead on the frame and mate the two -- most should be covered by the trim if ya keep far enough to the outside edge. I guess depends how far the new glass stands off on your car.
Butyl works too. Do it on a warm sunny day and you can get it to sink where you want it. (sure you knew that! ..ha ha).
Yes, I thought about urethane, and have set quite a few windshields with it, just didn’t want to have to put a dam in to keep the urethane from being seen. Not much room for error on this glass, want to make sure it looks nice from the inside.
Some urethane is primerless to glass and some is not. 3M 8690 has enough “body” to hold the weight of the glass high enough to close the gap to the moldings and not ooze into view. And it uses one primer for both the metal and the glass. I use the primer around the perimeter of the glass for adhesion(as required) and to hide the urethane bead. The only place it is visible is at the sides. The chrome covers most of the primer anyway. Test fit the glass to see how much width to used and not to cover the VIN tag on the A-pillar. Also used some tape for witness marks to set the right to left location (center) the glass. This also simulates the black silk screen of modern windshields which everyone is accustomed to seeing and shows a straight line, not the wavy urethane bead.
There should be two screwed down brackets in the cowl area to establish the height of the glass(vertical) to the top toward the clips on the header. Good for the left to right witnesses, too.
Legally, windshields in C-3’s should be urethane to the car. GM didn’t use butyl tape, they used Thorocol (sp.), a crude adhesive. MVSS 212 states that replacement glass be reinstalled in similar to original. Butyl tape isn’t anywhere near as strong as urethane. Butyl tape is evil....
I have heard, but do not endorse, of using 3/8” round butyl tape for windshield installs. Good height for modern, thinner glass and when applied to the glass makes a nice straight edge. “European” set, tape to glass gets the tape consistently around the perimeter of the glass. Takes two people to set the shield.
Some urethane is primerless to glass and some is not. 3M 8690 has enough “body” to hold the weight of the glass high enough to close the gap to the moldings and not ooze into view. And it uses one primer for both the metal and the glass. I use the primer around the perimeter of the glass for adhesion(as required) and to hide the urethane bead. The only place it is visible is at the sides. The chrome covers most of the primer anyway. Test fit the glass to see how much width to used and not to cover the VIN tag on the A-pillar. Also used some tape for witness marks to set the right to left location (center) the glass. This also simulates the black silk screen of modern windshields which everyone is accustomed to seeing and shows a straight line, not the wavy urethane bead.
There should be two screwed down brackets in the cowl area to establish the height of the glass(vertical) to the top toward the clips on the header. Good for the left to right witnesses, too.
Legally, windshields in C-3’s should be urethane to the car. GM didn’t use butyl tape, they used Thorocol (sp.), a crude adhesive. MVSS 212 states that replacement glass be reinstalled in similar to original. Butyl tape isn’t anywhere near as strong as urethane. Butyl tape is evil....
I have heard, but do not endorse, of using 3/8” round butyl tape for windshield installs. Good height for modern, thinner glass and when applied to the glass makes a nice straight edge. “European” set, tape to glass gets the tape consistently around the perimeter of the glass. Takes two people to set the shield.
Steve O.
Hi Steve,
Understood on the butyl vs urethane argument, I know there’s a lot of guys that frown on butyl. I’ve always figured (probably wrong, it’s happened before..) that if I do something bad enough to knock a butyl windshield out, I’m probably headed to that big burn-out in the sky anyway, but who knows??
I’m curious about the lower brackets that you mentioned, my car doesn’t have any, and I don’t even see open holes where they might mount. You wouldn’t happen to have any pics or PN’s? Thanks for the help and the info,