Ok, guys and gals, I've been looking for a C3 to fit my budget ($7K tops), and wanted to get some guidance. I'm currently looking at a '75 with new paint, rebuilt (non matching number) 350 with rollers and mild cam, rebuilt 700R4 overdrive trans. Now the bad- needs interior finished, new tires and the usual- weathersrip, suspension bushing etc. I'd like to put chrome side exhaust on it as well (but may not be in the budget unless I can find it cheap). The paint seems to be done right and I would color sand it and polish just to finesse the orange peel. I would want to replace the seats (current C4 seats) with C3 seats as well. I can do all this as I've restored more than one car to Concours condition over the years. Yes, I know you can end up sinking a ton of money in a 45 year old car, but hey- I'm a car nut!! My budget would give me only about $1K for the parts to finish it up after purchase ( I may be looking for a side gig to pay the rest since I just retired). I've checked the kick panels and underside and rust seems a little more than expected for a western car, but acceptable. Thoughts? Should I go for it or keep looking given there may be more coming on the market at discount prices given the future economy woes? Ohh- one reason I like the '75 is no emissions to deal with. I've noticed there are many more latter cars ('77-82) out there and less of the '73-75 cars on the market. Of course I would love a chrome bumper car, but not with my budget unfortunately. '75 and earlier cars are exempt in Colorado. Thanks in advance.

Front suspension- new brakes all around.

Rear suspension- untouched

 

Hi, and congrats on your retirement! A few thoughts - you'll receive lots of good advice from the great members on this forum....

* Additional pics will really be a big help for us to give more insights
* Thoroughly check the bird cage for rust - if the car has too much rust, this could turn out to be a bit of a mess. If rust is normal/acceptable, it could be a good deal.
* It sounds like you're getting a C3 to be able to 'tinker' as part of your retirement routine. Since you're a car nut, you already know that you'll most likely put more into this car than you can get out of it - but that's not the point anyway!
* Your $1000 budget will probably be gone quickly with items that need to be done to enjoy driving it.
* Nice to have new paint, as long as the prep was done correctly. If the prep wasn't good (and not sure you'd know unless the current owner has pics of the work being done) it could be an issue. Lots of quickie paint jobs look nice, only to become an issue later.
* It sound like you can do most of the work yourself, which saves time and is fun, so you can get it on the road and do needed/wanted upgrades as budget and time allow.
* It looks like, from the one side we can see, that the brakes have been done? If so, that's worth quite a bit.
* The underside rust, from what the pics show, doesn't look that bad to me.
* Is the motor sound? If so, that's good news.
* Looks like an auto - is the trans good?
* Noticed no spare/carrier - maybe the current owner has it and it's just not installed?
* You may need exhaust soon?

As mentioned, more pics and information will help. I like the way you're thinking - save another C3 and have some fun!! Best of luck, Paul

 

Thanks for the insight, From what I can see, the birdcage seems solid at least from the kick panels. Motor seems to be sound- owner said previous rebuild, no paper work of course, but he had it checked out by a mechanic and I have seen a few photos with valve covers off of new rockers. Trans is 700R4 and reportedly rebuilt as well. A few more photos attached.

Something does not look right with the floor pan?

Reported as rebuilt- trying to get some form of documentation.

Base coat/clear coat. Seen photos of prep- careful attention given to body seams and bumpers. No waves in glass- will need a good color sand and polish to be perfect.

Lens need replaced- bumpers look good- no sags between attachment points

700R4 OD. Has B&M shifter- I would replace with OEM shifter and adapter kit sold by Ecklers.

 

Congratulations on your retirement, I retired 1.5 years ago and have not missed work.

My philosophy is buy the best you can get and you only cry once. Personally, I would not go back to work for a car. The market will be what it is, C3’s are not investments with a few exceptions.

I would recommend contacting the local Corvette club and see if a person knowledgeable about C3’s would look at it with you. Another option is getting a recommendation for a local mechanic to look at the vehicle. I would rather spend a few hundred than buy a 7K car and have it be a poor decision.

Looking at the exhaust repair, bubba must have relatives in all 50 states.

Good luck with your search. The shiny side looks good.

 

$7K for that car appears to be a fair deal. Have you taken it for a long test drive, at least 30 min?

 

Looks like a decent car for $7K. BUT, are you handy with your hands and tools? Do you want to 'dig in' to repairing/rebuilding an "old" car? Are you curious about how things are assembled? Do you like taking things apart?

If the answer to those questions is "YES!", go for it. If not, think about it some more.

 

The OP said "My budget would give me only about $1K for the parts to finish it up after purchase ( I may be looking for a side gig to pay the rest since I just retired)"
I think you'll be surprised at how fast that sum will be gone and you will still only started to "fix". Corvette interior parts are expensive, as is anything else Corvette specific.

I would not take anyones statement as "reportedly rebuilt". I would ask to see the shop invoice, and if the seller doesn't have it then that statement is meanless.

 

If you plan on keeping it for a good long time and keeping up with repairs, figure on spending around one and a half times the purchase price. Just sayin.

 

The most expensive things are

1. the paint and body work
2. the engine
3. tranny
4. rear drive line
5. complete brake system replacement
6. interior and wiring.

I would make sure its not lip stick on a pig and check the windshield frame for any rust, around theT tops since they are prone to leaks, the rear body mounts and kick ups
and the front body mounts at the bird cage behind the kick panels.

The 10 things sticky has great info about 30 or so posts in where the original document was copied. You sound like you have the abilities so that isnt a big deal and the interior is "kit car' quality so its not a big deal but finding good fitting parts is. I would do your best to find original parts for the dash and console area and maybe reconsider the original seat idea. 74/75 seats may be better than my 68 seats but they were like riding a milk crate.

as alwasy post more pics, ie interior, frame and engine bay. They frame pics so far just showed surface rust and grease which isnt bad

 

I totally agree with Richard,, drive that turd at least 30 minutes away, then 30 minutes back, don't let that shininess blind you from all the hidden issues, , ( it likely dosent matter to you, but black was not a available option in 1975) Drive it HARD, STAND ON THE BRAKES, that will tell a lot, looks like it could be a good starting point for you. if all checks out ok,, and for me,, I always beat-up the seller on price,,,,, if seller dosen't agree to it,, walk away, and keep looking,

 

looks blue..

 

BLUE BLACK


I-Da-kno,,,,lol,,,

 

That exhaust and the floorpan damage look like a good sign there will be other horrors hiding. Not necessarily a bad thing as these cars are incredibly easy to work on but that 1000 budget will disappear in a second if you want to repair them properly.

 

Seats and tires are gonna eat your 1K budget right up. There are no interior pics but rug kit, maybe dash pad, weather stripping & etc will also add up-(My entire interior was 1500 in parts but that was a color change). Just for Jollies let say you are now at 9K with all the above... When I was looking I saw a bunch of non Air conditioned cars between 6.5 to 9K, some of them were real nice. The pluses, motor and tranny look dry, the exhaust looks like it will work for awhile, no spare tire, wonder if the Jack is there..lol... Now I'm a little **** -(alot)- but the one thing about the paint job that bothered me was they over sprayed the little bumperetts, not a big deal but to me that shows they either did not know any better or did not care to take 5 minutes to tape them..both of those reasons are not good for me...

We are all different and so are the cars, I'd keep looking because I need AC and there are a bunch of cars out there that have it and more. Congrats on the retirement, I'm close too and bought my car with my sick time buy back...I found one that I can work on when I want, but I don't have to just to take a ride...

Goog luck

 

All good recommendations- much appreciated! I'm trying to get more info on the engine/trans rebuilds from the seller. It's got new brakes, but a front right caliper is leaking from setting- I understand the seals can leak if not used?