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Flushing R12 AC system

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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 09:54 PM
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Default Flushing R12 AC system

After you flush your R12 system (with whatever it is you flush it with), would you have to replace the dryer/accumulator or can you just pull vacuum for 8 hours, would that work? Thanks Would be going right back with R12.
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 11:20 PM
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FJC at Mooresville NC near Charlotte


https://fjcinc.com/lubricants-dyes-flushes/
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 11:31 PM
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If you are switching to R134a refrigerant, I would replace the dryer. You can buy spray cans of A/C system cleaner at most auto parts stores. Just put a bucket under the hose at the end of the system and shoot it thru the other end. Catch it in a clean bucket so that you can inspect for any debris due to damaged A/C system. ALL debris must be removed before you even consider recharging it. It's a messy job, but easy to do. Use pressurized air to blow thru the lines after you have exhausted the cleaner spray cans.

If no junk left in the 'dump' bucket, you're good to go.
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by kansas123
After you flush your R12 system (with whatever it is you flush it with), would you have to replace the dryer/accumulator or can you just pull vacuum for 8 hours, would that work? Thanks Would be going right back with R12.
The answer given to me by a couple A/C pros is Yes. The dryer on the early C3s is sealed and has a bag of desiccant inside. If the system is opened it will absorb moisture. Over time that bag can fall apart and release the desiccant into the system. So replacement is best. The flushing that 7T1vette recommends is the way to do it. Look up youtube videos that show it done. Make sure all your parts still function. Do some research, a stuck POA valve will ruin your attempt of recharge.
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 08:21 AM
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I would replace....but..why are you flushing? Compressor explode?
seems the flush wouldn’t help the dessicant..
i would skip the flush unless known potential for contamination..depends on why..
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jackson
FJC at Mooresville NC near Charlotte


https://fjcinc.com/lubricants-dyes-flushes/

Thanks!
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by kansas123
After you flush your R12 system (with whatever it is you flush it with), would you have to replace the dryer/accumulator or can you just pull vacuum for 8 hours, would that work? Thanks Would be going right back with R12.
Are you using an A6 Compressor? Be sure to check the oil level.
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 01:16 PM
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Yes, A6. There's a long story here where I have to tell on myself but it leads to me needing to flush the lines, then replace POA, expansion valve, dryer and compressor. But I want things clean as can be before putting new compressor on. That dyer looks like a real %$^$%*&*( to replace lol. That is what has stopped me many times in the past and could do it again. It's like, I would like for the a/c to work but....
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by kansas123
Yes, A6. There's a long story here where I have to tell on myself but it leads to me needing to flush the lines, then replace POA, expansion valve, dryer and compressor. But I want things clean as can be before putting new compressor on. That dyer looks like a real %$^$%*&*( to replace lol. That is what has stopped me many times in the past and could do it again. It's like, I would like for the a/c to work but....
I never had an issue replacing the drier/receiver on my '71. The POA, yes...even the evaporator was a challenge.
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 09:10 PM
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Oh, good Lord....replacing the POA... It is located in an impossible area to get a wrench with any size on it. You might be able to break the upper fitting loose; good luck with breaking the lower one loose. There is just no access!!! I won't tell you what I did to get the danged thing out, but it involved cutting a solid refrigerant line.

In the end, all is well and the conversion to 134a was a success. Sweated bullets for a while, though__________
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Oh, good Lord....replacing the POA... It is located in an impossible area to get a wrench with any size on it. You might be able to break the upper fitting loose; good luck with breaking the lower one loose. There is just no access!!! I won't tell you what I did to get the danged thing out, but it involved cutting a solid refrigerant line.

In the end, all is well and the conversion to 134a was a success. Sweated bullets for a while, though__________
Oh man, thanks for the warning.....Some of the stuff we want to do with these cars, mechanics back in the day really had to know their stuff huh....
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by kansas123
Oh man, thanks for the warning.....Some of the stuff we want to do with these cars, mechanics back in the day really had to know their stuff huh....
"Back in the day" things were NOT 40+ years old and stuck like they are now. Might not help. but a good soaking with Hoppe's #9 gun solvent might be your salvation. And I agree with 7T1-- sometimes you just can't get there from here. Pulling the engine might help..
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 02:56 AM
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I just rebuilt my AC system. Replacing the receiver/dryer was the worst part of the job, but it is doable. The Quickjack was invaluable and worth every penny I paid for it! I must have raised and lowered the car at least 25 times. You can get the necessary tools into the opening that is available after you pull the passengers side splash shield, but it’s not easy. I used the correct size open end wrench on the receiver fitting and a slip jaw wrench to hold the hose fitting while I tightened that connection. When you put the receiver/dryer in, don’t tighten everything up until you have both fittings connected and the receiver bracket installed.

That being said it is doable, just not easy, but after several summers with no AC, it was worth it to me and with the time off I currently have, I had the time to do it. Feel free to PM me for more details.
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 11:04 AM
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☝️Agree..
never changed the valve thou..mine was 79..
bought the small channel lock wide azzz wrench for that tight space..went from under..lots threads on it with pics..i did one
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