I’m having problem with the heater control thumb wheels (1975 Automatic) hitting the cables at the bottom of the center console. I’m sure it’s because the center console is sitting too low but has anyone found a permanent fix/repair/mod that can raise the bracket that holds the heater control unit just a tad bit higher?

The image below is not my car, (found image online) but I believe the rusted bracket below the heater controls needs to be raised more. I've tried installing washers below the screws that hold the heater controls in place and although it helped, it didn't solve the problem. I guess one option is to raise the whole center console up by 1/2", but what's the best way to do so, permanently and still line up with the rear console, (houses the ebrake and window switches.

 

I have removed my HVAC Control on my 73 more times than I will admit. The control was removed initially to install the refurbish kit (wheels, plastic lens, etc. I found that you have to get the metal covered cable in just the right place, or the control will not rest correctly on the rectangular metal tray. After messing with the control on numerous occasions, it seems that the cable needs to be in certain spot OR the control will not fit into the tray correctly. I am guessing that your tray is bent / deformed and that’s why the control is sitting to low. I have seen the metal trays listed on eBay as the parts folks don't sell them. Your best bet would be to remove the cable and wires from the HVAC Control then see how it fits. Another problem could be your console is spread out to WIDE and that is causing the transmission tunnel to touch the bottom of the HVAC Control. Is your console OEM? Seems that the restoration trim parts have a ton of fitment issues as there are many posts on the Forum. I hope this helps, maybe if you post some pictures, others will be able to help.

 

Eliredandblack
Thanks for the reply, I had the issue with my original center console, so I purchased a new one for Wilcox and made sure the cables were in the proper place and everything went in without resistance and I had the same issues with the replacement center console.
I find that the heater controls aren't very solid, when I apply pressure to the thumb wheels in order to move them up and down is when I'm having the issues. Last time I checked the metal tray, it didn't seem bend, but then again, it didn't seem very strong as they're not very thick gauge metal.

 

When I was working on my PRNDL I had the console plate on and off a bunch of times and finally noticed wheel control touched.
I marked everything and it was actually hitting the cable




When I put the insulation under the shifter bracket at the front it raised it enough to (along with the dash sag) just touch

Anyway, maybe something to look at
M

 

My 75 did that also in the same spot, i added some spacers to back of the counsel to raise it up.
I did have a threaded 1/4 rod with a nut on top so i could adjust it up/down but it fell out.

 

I see where the guys with automatic trannys have the rod going under the HVAC Control. My car is a 4 speed, so there is no shaft under the control. On my car there is some original insulation left on the hump, and that does raise up the console a little. Is your car an automatic?

 

Mooser

Thanks for the photo, that’s exactly where it’s hitting. I would think that if you put insulation under the shifter bracket it would raise it and make the situation worse? Maybe I’m not understanding correctly.

Mod75

I’m not sure how/where the 1/4” threaded rod is installed so that you can make adjustments.

Eliredandblack

Yes, it’s an auto, I will edit my original post to reflect that. Good point.

 

Could the bracket under the radio where the front of the console attaches, be deformed/bent. Bubba has a way of redesigning all types of things? I am going to guess that your carpet is fairly old? When I replaced my carpet which had the jute backing attached, my console installed higher than before, due to the carpet going under each side of the console. Because the new carpet/backing is thicker
everything will be raised up, except for your shifter shaft.

 

I was just saying that adding the insulation on the hump was part of what caused mine to sit up at touch along with some droop on the main dash
I lifted the shifter and cut the insulation under the front pad away to help make it clear
M

 

Eliredandblack

If memory serves me right the bracket under the radio came new with the new console, therefore I doubt it’s bent. I also believe it was maybe 18 gauge in a slight u-shaped form to give it more strength. Carpet is new as well as the center and rear console. I’m the original owner, but that doesn’t mean I remember what I dd 40 years ago.

Mooser

Thanks, I misunderstood, I’m wondering if I can fabricate a bracket to either raise the center console or just the heater controls. I just have to remember how it all goes together, piece by piece.

 

You can't really raise the heater controls beyond the shifter plate, the tin surround rests on the console and so does the shifter plate so you really need to raise the whole console.
The holes on the front where it gets screwed to the bracket on the tunnel were drilled on assembly so don't be afraid to just space it up and drill a new set
M

 

Mooser
I'm wondering if I can fabricate a bracket that can be installed so that they squeeze the front of the console tighter so as to raise it. I would screw it just underneath both side panel screws and along the front inside. The That might be my only option, I'll add it to my list when it comes out of storage. .

 

Probably not needed.
Now all this is based on the upper dash and center cluster being able to be raised where it needs to be
The shift console front reinforcement gets screwed to the part fixed to the tunnel
You can weld/rivet/screw a couple of pieces of tin over the existing holes and hold the console up where it needs to be and drill a new set of holes on each side wherever they need to be. Those will hold it up and everything else stacks on top



The other thing we didn't mention above is if the console is sitting too far BACK it will drop as well. Make sure it's spaced forward correctly by the parking brake console
M

 

Mooser

Thanks for sticking with my thread.

I thought #8 screw was only to hold the side panels but I see by your diagram that #2 serves that purpose. I never realized #8 and #2 are two difference screws with #8 going in first. Interesting…….I’ll have to look deeper into #5 U nut.

When you state “the shift console front reinforcement gets screwed to the part fixed to the tunnel” I assume you mean it gets screwed (#8) to “U” Nut #5 . And also “You can weld/rivet/screw a couple of pieces of tin over the existing holes and hold the console up where it needs to be and drill a new set of holes on each side wherever they need to be.” My interpretation is You can always tig weld a stainless-steel plate over the existing “U” Nut so as to raise the existing holes as needed to accommodate #8 screw?

I wonder how #5 “U” Nut is secured to the center fiberglass channel/tunnel? In other words, whether I can fabricate a new piece that has the “U” Nut ¼” higher on each side?



You’ve given me some very good suggestions Mooser, thanks.

EDIT:
I just noticed the comment at the bottom of the photo..The rear parking brake console is secured by #2 #4 #5 screws, I'm not sure it can be out of place especially with #4 at the rear, but I could be wrong. I know I rushed the body off resto, so anything is possible.

 

There is a tin metal "hoop" that is riveted to the underside of the console at the front


The screw that goes through that slotted hole on the side there (#5) goes into the U-nut that's on the part that is on the tunnel on the car.
Since it's a fairly big slot and the piece on the tunnel is just a u-nut there's a lot of slop there
I'm thinking (because I kind of did it to mine) that if you rivet / tacked a piece of sheet metal to cover the slot and drilled a hole wherever you needed (at the very bottom of the slot or slightly lower) then it would actually server to help lift the console up, which of course helps lift the gauge cluster, dash etc. and in turn give you the clearance you've lost in the HVAC control.
Originally everything was new and not drooped and the screw/u-nut would be fine in the slot but it's a lot of years of gravity and you might not be able to just rely on the friction to support everything anymore
Anyway, there's very little room to jamb anything else under there to support it so if this is what it needs, it's an easy fix

What I meant about the p-brake console is that I wasn't sure if you had it in already as it's what establishes where the shift console sits front/back and more than one person has tried to get the shift console / dash all lined up without checking the p-brake console and found out that the shift console is sitting too far back (which results in it sitting lower on the hump)
M

 

The u-nuts on the hump are on a metal piece that runs from side to side and it's riveted to the top of the hump
M

 

On mine there was the power window relay and I think the wiper relay bolted to it as well


M

Oh and here you can see the dynamat I put on and then on top of that I put the reflectex insulation and then mounted my shifter.... raising it up too far and hitting the HVAC wheel so I had to cut away where the front mounted
M

 

M