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Idler Arm Correct?

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Old May 15, 2020 | 02:54 AM
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Default Idler Arm Correct?

Taking everything off my '71 coupe frame and found this as my steering idler arm and mounting bracket:



Does that look like the proper style for '71? The AIM, corvette service manual and 1971 chevy shop manual show a single unit consisting of a straight "bracket" that bolts to the frame and goes right into the idler arm joint versus the "L" bracket I have with a castle nut attachment to a seperable idler arm unit.

It must have been replaced at least once in it's prior ;ife as a daily driver and whatever shop did it might have used a "suitable substitute." It must have worked because it drove OK 31 years ago before it was stored.

Probably will be replacing what I have anyway, but I just wanted to know what is correct so I get the proper replacement.

Thanks,
Paul

Last edited by nwav8tor; May 15, 2020 at 03:01 AM.
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Old May 15, 2020 | 06:11 AM
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Paul - I am pretty sure it is not correct. Here is the one I took off of my frame. The one I replaced it with looks just like it.
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Old May 15, 2020 | 06:14 AM
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But then again mine is a 68 so I am not positive about 71s but am doubtful. You can check the folks like Willcox and their catalogs and cross reference parts numbers to be sure.
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Old May 15, 2020 | 09:04 AM
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Not familiar with your yr model. But I have seen where there are std units and H.D. units. (Some are thicker than others) Some have two grease zerks, some have one.
Some will not clear certain headers during lock-to-lock of the steering wheel. Some have an incorrect angle to the linkage. Very confusing for sure.
You would think that a Moog unit would be a good choice. IDK
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Old May 15, 2020 | 10:07 AM
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The one I took off my car a few years ago looked like that


I thought it was off a dump-truck or something but apparently just a generic replacement part
M

Last edited by Mooser; May 15, 2020 at 10:17 AM.
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Old May 15, 2020 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy Tuttle
Paul - I am pretty sure it is not correct. Here is the one I took off of my frame. The one I replaced it with looks just like it.
Thanks AT, Yours looks like the manuals and Willcox show. The tire/service shop I used must've just used a generic part.

Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Not familiar with your yr model. But I have seen where there are std units and H.D. units. (Some are thicker than others) Some have two grease zerks, some have one.
Some will not clear certain headers during lock-to-lock of the steering wheel. Some have an incorrect angle to the linkage. Very confusing for sure.
You would think that a Moog unit would be a good choice. IDK
I checked Moog and they show the style AT had on his from the picture he posted.

Originally Posted by Mooser
The one I took off my car a few years ago looked like that
I thought it was off a dump-truck or something but apparently just a generic replacement part
M
Yeah, I have to agree that its probably just a generic part but probably not stout enough for a dump truck

Anyway, when (not if ) reassembly comes around, I'll ensure the correct style is used. I'll probably go with Willcox or Moog, hopefully Moog from Willcox!


Thanks for the replies guys!
Paul

Last edited by nwav8tor; May 15, 2020 at 01:41 PM.
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Old May 15, 2020 | 03:12 PM
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I think they are 2 designs that put the same length arm in the same place. my 75 has andy tuttle's type but you can see from above the same offset as the arm in OP's post 1.

Last edited by derekderek; May 15, 2020 at 03:36 PM.
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Old May 15, 2020 | 10:02 PM
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Different casting designs with same 'important' dimensions.
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