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Old May 15, 2020 | 10:11 PM
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So I need to replace all the weatherstripping on my 72. School me on the good/bad. Metro? Softseal? Latex is much more expensive than rubber, is it that much better? Tell me your success and nightmare stories.
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Old May 16, 2020 | 12:22 AM
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I would go Latex personally. The pieces I've bought are just about indistinguishable from NOS (...and I have a few GM NOS pieces to compare to). I was going to put on NOS a+b pillar seals, but now I think I'm just going to use the latex. The only difference between the pieces I have is that the GM NOS pieces have a little thicker rubber coating on the exterior. You'd only know it if you held them next together in one hand. If the latex mfgrs put another coat of rubber on these gaskets, I believe a very knowledgeable person would be hard pressed to tell the difference. I also have a Metro kit in the basement which I never used. They're much more firm compared to the latex (I"ll give you a 'deal' on them if you're interested). I'm not going to say they're terrible, but if you go with the Metro, I'm afraid you might be down to closing your doors somewhat hard to get them to close, and need to have the side glass adjusted about perfect for them to seal up well. At least initially until the gaskets finally 'seat'.

The correct 'softness' of weatherstrip foam, especially at the A&B pillars and the top of the side glass (t-top portion where the door glass fits/seals 'into') is critical to getting frameless windows to close and 'seat' properly w/o whistling down the highway. Therefore I would spend the extra $$ for latex personally. As for the tops, I corresponded with Melrose tops and they also recommended latex t-top pieces as being closest to GM (I bought my t-top latex gaskets from them ..along with some other t-top parts). The reason I bought t-top w/s from them is I asked if they would take them out off the bags and personally inspect the pieces for flaws or molding problems before sending them out. That's what they do, they know their T-tops. T-top gaskets have molded-in metal clips and forms and I didn't want a poorly mfgr'd set showing up on my doorstep. It's important they fit properly (they look great but I haven't installed yet). Those guys at Melrose have always been straight shooters with me. Two thumbs up! I would personally avoid buying gaskets from, like, ebay. I get the sense some of those sellers are selling 2nds or possibly returns, based on some recent orders (I'm sure all sellers aren't doing that, but I wouldn't chance it with something critical like weatherstrip IMO).

While you're at it, give a good look in your door window hardware (all parts are there --i.e. coil spring, and tracks properly lubed) and side glass belt/door panel weatherstrippng too. As well as your door hinges being tight and adjusted 'right'. There's a plastic **** on the lower front of the side glass that 'parks' the glass, and that **** wears down and can make the glass 'floppy'. You can build it up with epoxy or replace. Also if your car has 'guiding clips' for the glass, at the A-pillars. All these subsystems kind of work together and affect how well the side glass seals (or doesn't). Like building a house you need a good square, firm foundation or everything else will be off (or a compromise). Anyway, sounds like a good project before you. Hope it helps. Best of luck whichever product you choose.

.

Last edited by Mark G; May 17, 2020 at 05:25 PM.
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Old May 16, 2020 | 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by cabman72
So I need to replace all the weatherstripping on my 72. School me on the good/bad. Metro? Softseal? Latex is much more expensive than rubber, is it that much better? Tell me your success and nightmare stories.
There is a lot of information on the different types of weatherstripping, pros & cons and comparisons on the C4 forum.
This should help you out on your decision..
Here is the link:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...at-debate.html

.
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Old May 16, 2020 | 01:57 PM
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Just did the weatherstripping on my '73. I used the EPDM weatherstrip kit from Willcox. The EPDM rubber is the most durable and the kit from WIllcox fit perfectly. Unless you're doing an NCRS car, not sure I'd use latex. It does work easier but is not as durable, but your choice of course. I did not find the EPDM weatherstrip to be difficult to work with at all. Use the 3M black weatherstrip adhesive and do a very good job of cleaning off the old adhesive and grime from the surfaces where the new weatherstrip will go. I used commercial grade Goo Gone for this, it's stronger than the regular Goo Gone, IMHO. Also, be sure and clean the mold release from the new weatherstrip . I used 70% iso alcohol for this job. There is a very good description with pictures on doing the T tops on the Super Chevy website as well as some other sites you can Google. The T top pins can be a bit of a challenge, but just yank the old ones out and lay out the new weatherstrip for fit before you grab the adhesive. I did the doors in sections and used lots of painters tape to hold the weatherstrip on as I went. Key is to not rush. I found the weatherstrip at the A & B pillars went in and out easily, no drama here. You may have to adjust your door glass to get the glass to seat properly to the new weatherstrip. This procedure is described in the AIM and seems overly complex from what I found in just logically fiddling with the adjustments in the door. Some good info on this on websites and in the CF. Good luck.
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Old May 16, 2020 | 10:12 PM
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Thanks everyone for your responses. I will stay away from ebay!
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