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Searched forums here for "how to" on windshield washer not working. Thought I had it figured out that I needed to replace pump, not an easy job. Someone suggested removing brake booster to remove container and pump to remove from above...(no way, would shoot myself in foot before removing that after the trouble I had last year replacing faulty booster). Another option remove inner fender panel, trim molding and charcoal canaster and remove from bottom...not me, I removed fill tube then bolts and wiggled it around in there to turn upside down to remove hose and wiring connector, fun part was getting that 7/8" plastic nut and filter screen from inside canaster...guessing they were just messing with us when designers thought to install it not in center directly under top opening but off to the side so a swivel would be required just to make it tricky. Getting it off was one thing but putting it back on was a whole new story.
Long story short, pump out, hot wired it to battery to confirm it was shot...it was. New pump and half a day later all together fresh washer fluid, no leaks and you guessed it...still not working! Could have, should have tested new pump before installing but my money is on, I may have another problem.
Now back to searching older posts to troubleshoot, unless someone would care to jump in with a solution.
Test voltage at the pump connector first.
You should have 12vdc between the yellow & Dk.blue at the connector when lever is pressed in.
Try that first.
Is this a T&T column?
Yellow wire will have 12vdc when ignition is in the On or Accessory position.
Last edited by bmotojoe; Jun 16, 2020 at 04:09 PM.
And you need a windshield washer pump for.....???? Doesn't the windshield need to be DIRTY first?
Now, to be perfectly truthful, when I first bought my '71 and tried bringing it up to better condition, I actually located the washer BAG, removed it and got it nice an pretty. I think I actually tried the washer out....ONCE....and found that it didn't work.
That was 15 years ago......
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 16, 2020 at 04:18 PM.
It is probably your switch in the column. On my 77 which had a bad switch I mounted a momentary contact switch under the dash and connected it to the dark blue wire that went to the column switch. The other terminal on the switch I connected to ground. A new switch for the column is hard to find.
I’ll go with bmotojoe’s plan first, looking for power but may end up as bruiser had done using contact switch under dash. First need to rest my 79 year old sore back, the about two days of leaning over that fender has me running to be seen by chiropractor.
Thanks for the help here guys
Today,
went out sore back and all...no multi meter but jabbed BLACK wire near pump motor with probe of Test Light and with key on and when put contact wire on Tester to ground, light lit but pump still did not run. Doesn't that show pump is getting power and should run when grounded? Could new pump be bad...not looking forward to going through that mess again.
Last edited by San Diego Ron; Jun 17, 2020 at 05:43 PM.
Reason: Adding remarks
I’ll go with bmotojoe’s plan first, looking for power but may end up as bruiser had done using contact switch under dash. First need to rest my 79 year old sore back, the about two days of leaning over that fender has me running to be seen by chiropractor.
Thanks for the help here guys
Today,
went out sore back and all...no multi meter but jabbed BLACK wire near pump motor with probe of Test Light and with key on and when put contact wire on Tester to ground, light lit but pump still did not run. Doesn't that show pump is getting power and should run when grounded? Could new pump be bad...not looking forward to going through that mess again.
Went through almost the exact sequences on the 72. As it is a daily driver and knowing I would get caught in the rain, I knew wipers and windshield washer were going to be have to’s in my world. When my patience wore out I found a reservoir with an integrated pump and mounted it mostly out of site in the drivers fender. Ran tubing directly to the wipers and as I had power to the original washer from the existing wiper/ washer switch in the dash, ran power from old washer to new. Works like champ for less than $20 from Amazon. Additionally added intermittent wiper module.
Now if I can just get the t-tops to not leak.....
If you have a third hand, have someone press the turn signal lever in (washer mode) and test light between Yellow & Dk.Blue wire. Your test light should light up.
Clip one end to Dk.blue, probe end to yellow.
Last edited by bmotojoe; Jun 17, 2020 at 08:09 PM.
Ron, I know it is a difficult area to work in but before you do anything else you must make sure it's not the new pumps fault by checking the wiring at the pump.
To give you a better idea what the Dk.Blue wire is doing I will provide you with this.
The upper set of contacts on this switch is your ground Black wire (circuit 150). This set of contacts are stationary.
The lower set of contacts Dk.blue wire is (circuit #94).
When you press the signal lever in to wash mode, the lower contact pushes up and touches the upper contact completing the washer pump ground circuit.
You can kinda see part of a hole under the yellow arrow circuit 94 contact, this is where the turn signal shaft goes in pushing up the contact.
Last edited by bmotojoe; Jun 17, 2020 at 09:01 PM.
Sorta read most of this, O.K. skimmed through it.
just wanted to say. I've replaced my washer pump that many times, never had one last more than 3 months. Gave up years ago. No one seems to make a washer pump that lasts. Stop at the servo , (gas station in the U.S.) and clean your windshield.
IT WORKS!
Test light shows power to pump but column switch not grounding pump. Didn’t want to do it but added a switch under dash and that took care of that problem. ....but still have to take tank loose to tighten up pump because it is leaking...damn, more fun
A friend of mine also has a 77, same problem. Found the Dk.Blue wire at the switch broken at the eyelet.
He didn't want the trouble with pulling the column apart so I came up with a little different location to mount the switch.
Knowing the speedometer housing has a ground wire to it the reset cable too should be a ground. So I used the reset cable bracket.
Looped one side of the new switch to the bracket and crimped the correct connector to a short length of Dk.Blue wire.
Removed the Dk.Blue wire from the switch side at the connector and inserted the new switch wire.
Like your idea of momentary switch way better than what I used so going to pick one up tomorrow. Took fluid reservoir loose to tighten the 7/8' plastic nut inside and still leaked (maybe because I installed with rubber washer on the outside bottom), anyway sprayed outside around pump with Flex Seal and now everything back together, no leaks, beautiful flow to windshield wipers.