New Vintage Air A/C Kit for 78-82
#22
Melting Slicks
I missed this thread the first time around and I'm glad it got dredged up. I read through the instructions and it looks like a well engineered system. Interested in more information. I am going to have to at least convert to R-134 someday as R-12 is no longer available in Canada and this looks like a viable option. (Although I dread the amount of disassembly required.)
#23
Intermediate
Member Since: Jan 2021
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
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My recollection is that before they released the surefit kit for 78-82, the previous kit had some figment issues with those later models center dash vents. Hopefully those fitment issues have been resolved and there’s an abundance of pictures out there.
#24
TheCorvetteBen
I have installed one. It is identical to the previous years other than they want to you remove your dash pad all the way, which you almost have to do to get the box under it. I can see many owners breaking or cracking their one piece dash pads when trying to get it in. Just be careful
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interpon (02-04-2021)
#26
Melting Slicks
Just got thru doing my 78 about 2 weeks ago, it is a chore but i also put in dynamat and dynaliner, Vintage says about 20 hours time, its more like 40, however I'm 60 yr old and aint as quick as I used to be, I love the Vintage air, I also wrapped my exhaust pipes from exhaust manifold to crossmember. I have no cabin floor heat unless the heater is on, this set up is great. I would recommend Vintage air for any C3
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carriljc (05-27-2021)
#31
#35
Melting Slicks
Yes, the original panels did not light up, but was curious if there was any reason why you can not use the original GM control panel for sack of originality with that VA system? Thank you.
#36
Updates?!? Happy??
Looking at this for a winter project here in AZ on my '78... NEED working AC for sure
Any "good" or "bad" words to pass along with this project?? Should have done it last year when I replaced my radiator
Any "good" or "bad" words to pass along with this project?? Should have done it last year when I replaced my radiator
#37
Make sure to invest in some good insulation while you have the dash and carpet out. I used Classic Auto Air Membrane insulation on the firewall, tunnel, and the seat back wall, and then I added Reflectix "blanket" on top of the membrane on the transmission tunnel. I did a 2000 mile road trip in south Georgia during July and never had to turn the fan past halfway power... To me, this was worth every penny and hour spent installing it.
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Johnnyracer (09-04-2022)
#38
Race Director
the factory ac in the 78 and up is a pretty good setup. and very few cars came without it. fix it. the evaporater on back are pretty good. the stuff that goes bad is from the firewall to the headlights. there are 700 buck kits that replace the compressor, lines, condenser, etc with the sanden style setup. and you don't have to gut the interior. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...&bih=609&dpr=1 always consider all the options. makes you happier with the choice you make in the long run. i did my setup for my 75 piecemeal. not done with it yet.
#39
I purchased the VA “ Gen II mini” builders series of the stand alone kits. It’s marketed to be able to adequately cool/heat small coupes and pickups. ( Corvette is about as small of a coupe as they come). As a kit, it comes with the evap unit, duct hoses, and top dash vents for the windshield defrost. Sells this way for 540.00.
What else will be needed to complete the system is a control panel, ( many different versions to choose from) a hose kit, ( can be purchased with a dryer) dash vents ( either in rectangular or eyeball versions), a binary/trinary valve, the bulkhead plate to pass the hoses through the firewall, ( or you can optionally hack a hole through the firewall and route the hoses through that), and a universal parallel flow condenser. And, depending on what you intend to do for a compressor, one of those as well. ( I purchased the factory R4 compressor before I decided to go this way, and will be using that instead) By the time all of those purchases are made, I’ll have about 11-1200.00 in the DIY kit. But i have a different engine in my car, and intend to create a fully custom interior, the kit intended for the car wouldn’t work for me anyway.
Ive done a few of these now on the other project cars I have built. The kit that is typically marketed for these cars is about as complete as you can hope for, if You want everything “ plug-n-play”. The only drawback to the kit is that it’s huge, and all of the duct hoses exit where the gas pedal lives, which makes routing all of that flexible duct work one of the hardest parts to this install. The smaller unit I purchased has all of its vents on the top. The benefits to doing it as opposed to using the factory stuff are numerous, but the main thing is that everything relative to the evap unit moves into the passenger compartment, instead of hanging all out into the engine bay. W/O having the evap unit in a fiberglass box right next to a 1000 degree exhaust manifold, Cooling efficiency goes way up. It’s also fully servo controlled, meaning that it completely eliminates the vacuum hose/ manual cable menagerie from under the dash. And getting to the #8 spark plug no longer is an exercise in stretch-and-burn.
What else will be needed to complete the system is a control panel, ( many different versions to choose from) a hose kit, ( can be purchased with a dryer) dash vents ( either in rectangular or eyeball versions), a binary/trinary valve, the bulkhead plate to pass the hoses through the firewall, ( or you can optionally hack a hole through the firewall and route the hoses through that), and a universal parallel flow condenser. And, depending on what you intend to do for a compressor, one of those as well. ( I purchased the factory R4 compressor before I decided to go this way, and will be using that instead) By the time all of those purchases are made, I’ll have about 11-1200.00 in the DIY kit. But i have a different engine in my car, and intend to create a fully custom interior, the kit intended for the car wouldn’t work for me anyway.
Ive done a few of these now on the other project cars I have built. The kit that is typically marketed for these cars is about as complete as you can hope for, if You want everything “ plug-n-play”. The only drawback to the kit is that it’s huge, and all of the duct hoses exit where the gas pedal lives, which makes routing all of that flexible duct work one of the hardest parts to this install. The smaller unit I purchased has all of its vents on the top. The benefits to doing it as opposed to using the factory stuff are numerous, but the main thing is that everything relative to the evap unit moves into the passenger compartment, instead of hanging all out into the engine bay. W/O having the evap unit in a fiberglass box right next to a 1000 degree exhaust manifold, Cooling efficiency goes way up. It’s also fully servo controlled, meaning that it completely eliminates the vacuum hose/ manual cable menagerie from under the dash. And getting to the #8 spark plug no longer is an exercise in stretch-and-burn.
#40
Drifting
Member Since: Nov 2004
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2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
besides the clean up/paint "while I'm there" stuff it's not a terrible job. Just read through instructions before you buy to make sure you think you can handle the work.
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Johnnyracer (09-04-2022)