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Is the exterior surface of an original master cylinder supposed to be "heavy rust"? No rust whatsoever in the interior and my brake fluid has stayed clear for 4+ years after I did a LOT of flushing.
Thanks Mel. Looks good but any idea of a similar brush-on product? I prefer to not remove the master cylinder. After spending hours and hours bleeding the system after replacing the rubber hoses near the calipers I really don't want to mess with that again. The surface will never be smooth so brush marks aren't a consideration.but a ridiculous amount of masking certainly is.
Thanks for that info karol! I suspect that paint had no resistance to brake fluid which explains why mine and so many others I see in pictures here are covered in heavy surface rust.
However given the fact that heavy surface rust on cast iron is in fact a protective layer to prevent deep rusting I still wonder if that factory paint was intended to be nothing but a purely cosmetic and knowingly fugitive finish.
I believe its a climatic issue. When you park the car overnite, the brakefluid inside is fairly cool but the MC is still hot from headers / manifolds. That difference in temps is what causes a reaction on the outside surface of the MC and its paint. The pores sweat.
The paint pros say 90% of an excellent paint job is prep. And I am a firm believer in primer, especially on porous cast iron.
I ' m with MelWff, Eastwood has awesome quality products.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 2, 2020 at 07:33 PM.
Thanks for that info karol! I suspect that paint had no resistance to brake fluid which explains why mine and so many others I see in pictures here are covered in heavy surface rust.
However given the fact that heavy surface rust on cast iron is in fact a protective layer to prevent deep rusting I still wonder if that factory paint was intended to be nothing but a purely cosmetic and knowingly fugitive finish.
most of the paint on parts like this was a cheap lightly coated paint to keep it looking new and not rusted while sitting on the car lot
Thanks for that info karol! I suspect that paint had no resistance to brake fluid which explains why mine and so many others I see in pictures here are covered in heavy surface rust. However, given the fact that heavy surface rust on cast iron is in fact a protective layer to prevent deep rusting I still wonder if that factory paint was intended to be nothing but a purely cosmetic and knowingly fugitive finish.
I've looked a many original M/Cs, low-mileage 78 types, and there still is a significant amount of finish. The heavy rust ones I've seen are service replacement...of course they've been driven as well.
In regards to technique, Karol passed along a tip to me when I was freshening up the engine compartment and that is to dab the paint on with the brush rather than stroke. It has a tendency to avoid brush marks...get the paint on than a "little dab will do ya!" Anyone remember that one?
Some C3 M/C's were bare and some were painted black. I just cleaned the outside of the M/C with lacquer thinner, then painted it 'cast iron' color. If you can keep the brake fluid off the surface, it will last a long time.
I've looked a many original M/Cs, low-mileage 78 types, and there still is a significant amount of finish. The heavy rust ones I've seen are service replacement...of course they've been driven as well.
In regards to technique, Karol passed along a tip to me when I was freshening up the engine compartment and that is to dab the paint on with the brush rather than stroke. It has a tendency to avoid brush marks...get the paint on than a "little dab will do ya!" Anyone remember that one?
brillcreme
great this thread just killed an hour..painted master...
played with brush technique..couldn’t find epoxy...so...
also i touched up some blue and thought original owner spray bombed some silver on intake..i heard it was like that from factory! On an already aluminum intake? How cheap is that!
anyway should dry even lower gloss.. Experimental touch up valve cover dab Oil based lowes industrial
Mike....I use Duplicolor CLEAR 'rust conversion coating'. This turns BLACK on contact with a 'rime' of rust and then you can use that as the primer for satin black. (or Not!)
I use the clear...assuming it's not on the bench and a little overspray is invisible.
I'ts naval jelly in a spray can.....works terrifically!
Master Cylinder Appearance
