I'm putting new interior door panels in my 1970 this week. The doors were bare when I got the car, so I have no reference to go by. Some questions:
1. Does the plastic water shield under the panels go over the connecting rods for the door locks or under them?
2. I bought the set of screws for the interior, but which screws are the ones for the door? I thought the labeling would be better.
3. Any tips on how to put the screw through the right location in the panel to hit the hole in the door without multiple tries?

Thanks!

 

The plastic shields go over the connecting rods.

The panels are mounted with sheet metal screws. These screws usually screw into a fastiner variously called a "tinnerman," U-clip, or speed clip.

https://www.belmetric.com/index.php?...s8h7hjskkj0gq6

Since the tinnerman clips can move around, you may not be able to get the screw to engage in the clip hole. With the panel pulled back about an inch, insert a long thin pointed object through the panel empty screw hole and use a pick or a very thin screwdriver to engage the hole in the tinnerman clip and move it in position for the screw you're intending to use.

 

i got bare al knock door panels. if you need help with the trim, it had little indentations on the back where the holes should be.
The panel is plastic(instead of original fiberboard) with a foam core, and vinyl skin.
I lined up the trim and marked where the holes would be. I drilled theback just enough to pierce the plastic.
I used and awl/ice pick and pushed it through the hole as straight as possible thru the foam core.
Slowly, til it starts to press the vinyl skin. you will see where it is pressing up thru the panel(without piercing the skin, yet)
You can see how far off your mark it is.
Adjust the awl to the marks you made and pierce thru. (just a small hole, its for reference. dont size it up yet, if its off you can live with a pinhole instead of a larger drilled hole)
do the same for the rest of the trim.
Hold the trim to the panel and see if they line up correctly.
If all looks good, use a drill proper size of trim and enlarge the awl hole.

 

How long ago did you buy these panels? Did they fit flush to the door? I have some old Al Knoch panels, warped, no way they will ever fit flush to the door. Warped like potato chips? These are very old panels, may consider giving them a second chance if others have had good luck.

 

You might try putting the panels out in full sun, supported under the two lowest areas on the panel, and with some added weight (2-3 pounds maybe) in the center of the warp. As the heated panel starts to soften, the weight will start to take out the warp in the panel. Let it sag a little more than straight, as it will have some 'rebound' when you remove the weight. You may need to add weight, if it resists your efforts.

P.S. What do you have to lose by trying it??

 

Thanks for all these great tips!

 

I could try that, a bit skeptical I'll get that much bow out of them without some other deformation. These panels were bought at Carlisle sometime around 1994... I've heard mixed reviews on panels sold more recently. Looking for a plan B if I can't salvage the panels I have now.

 

For what it's worth, if you mean the one in the corners..
I never installed the screws through the door panel, only used the two clips that go around and onto the side of the door. Between those and the door pull screws it's actually fairly tight and has never rattled or anything. It's only been 20 years or so but maybe it'll fall off tomorrow
M

 

I put mine out in the sun last week and it worked wonders. Couldn’t bolt them to the door st first but they are looking pretty good at this point. I also put sandbags on them after they heated up but make sure you protect your paint job. Took 2 days.

 

I’ve done this many times and showed countless others how without difficulty. You can do this with or without screws.

First, look at door photos and see where the screws go for a generalized idea. Al Knoch door panels have light oval scars on the reverse side of the black plastic panel molds, take a small screw and slowly run it through the door panel in the center of this mark until you can just barely see it or feel it just behind the vinyl face of the door panel. Reverse the screw and recheck the alignment. Before you break the surface of the vinyl, mount the door panel using the factory clips and the factory plastic press together Velcro (in similarity) pieces. Holding the panel tight and in the best correct spot you can get (you might need another pair of hands) make witness marks on the back of door around the perimeter of your panel. If need be, because of shape or contact problems, set the panels in the sun or carefully use a heat gun set on the lowest setting and wave it no closer than 6” to 8” above the surface at a pace a little faster than you would spray painting that panel. Using clean gloves remount the panel using your witness markings. You should be ready to run your screws through the panel into the door, and don’t worry, there’s plenty of steel behind that screw area. Stand back and admire your professional workmanship. Note* the factory had dimpled holes on the face side of the panels and dash sections and recessed washers. It’s your choice, but know you will take a hit on judging if washers are missing (see photos for all panel mounting hardware).

Ok, I saved the best for last. Velcro makes a heavy duty, 2 part in tape form rolls - $15 for 25’ found at most good hardware stores. Follow the same directions as above, but skip the “screws” part. This heavy duty velcro tape can be placed an inch or so back from the panel edges in 2” to 4” strips around the sides and bottom edge. Remember about NCRS correctness, if applicable. It’s up to how well the panel follows the contours of the door to determine how much Velcro to use. This stuff can really hold parts and the adhesive is HD as













If you have any problems you know where to find me.

Rich

 

PS, Look very close to the blue door panel show in my photos above. See the screw hole at the utmost top left? Many miss this spot for correct mounting. Don’t skip the vapor/insulation barrier. Use the reusable putty on the door to hold the barrier so that you can service Door parts later and not have to re do the shield.

Rich

 

The door panel picture is a big help. Having started off with bare steel, I had no idea where the screw went. The previous owner made a few extra holes in the door for some reason.

 

Hit the Like button, I earn cigarettes in the prison commissary for “Likes”

 

The door panel screw hit another road block. The screws that are labeled as the right ones are too short to even go through the panel.



My panel from Corvette America is thick all the was to the end, where the pictures posted of other's seem to have a thinner edge,

 

Additionally the Corvette America door panels have metal eyelets where the mounting screws go at the top of the door if you're going to use them - look carefully from the inside.