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Removing Interlock Cable bracket

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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 09:46 AM
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Default Removing Interlock Cable bracket

Resolved - Thanks

Last edited by CaptainMorganUOR; Aug 17, 2020 at 04:26 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 09:57 AM
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The firewall is designed for it to fit through.

Did you take the plate with the 2 bolts that go through the firewall off?
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 10:03 AM
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Oh, is it? It did not look big enough. OK. I'll take a swing at it after my meetings today.

I have the plate loose, but not completely removed. Probably why I couldn't see the firewall was large enough. Looking at the guides, it looked like this had to come off, but thanks for confirming it could stay.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 10:19 AM
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There is a clip holding the cable onto the post & lever at the bottom of the steering column. And there is a bracket mounted to (and thru) the firewall which prevents that column from being pulled out. You remove the clip and the cable and push the cable to the side; remove the lower-right nut from that bracket (inside surface of firewall) and loosen the other bottom bolt (unthread but do not remove it): now from the outside, move lever/post so that the bracket can clear it when you pull it away from the firewall; now pull steering column backwards and pivot that bracket to provide clearance for column removal. Reverse process to reinstall.

P.S. You need to remove the electrical connectors on the steering column (under the dash) before you attempt removal of the column.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Aug 17, 2020 at 10:21 AM.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
There is a clip holding the cable onto the post & lever at the bottom of the steering column. And there is a bracket mounted to (and thru) the firewall which prevents that column from being pulled out. You remove the clip and the cable and push the cable to the side; remove the lower-right nut from that bracket (inside surface of firewall) and loosen the other bottom bolt (unthread but do not remove it): now from the outside, move lever/post so that the bracket can clear it when you pull it away from the firewall; now pull steering column backwards and pivot that bracket to provide clearance for column removal. Reverse process to reinstall.

P.S. You need to remove the electrical connectors on the steering column (under the dash) before you attempt removal of the column.
Perfect, thanks.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 11:42 AM
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There is no cable on it, currently. The arm is currently right over the bolt in the firewall bracket and won't budge either up or down (which way should it rotate?). I hit it with some PB and will try again in a bit.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 01:01 PM
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The bolt in the firewall should be a carriage bolt head so you only need to get at the nut on the insides.

here's the hole in the firewall (more or less) with the slot for the arm to go through

M
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 01:03 PM
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Here is the domed head of the carriage bolt behind the arm


If you do need to move the arm, it should go down from that position, not sure if the key would have to be in the run position to allow it maybe ???
M
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 04:25 PM
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Thanks all, for the column out. It’s funny how one project leads into another. This all started because. Wanted to change out the light bulbs in the dash.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 11:04 PM
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HA!! Been there!! It was recommended on this site to remove the steering column so that you can remove the whole dash pad. While that is true, It caused a lot more GRIEF than it prevented. If you need to remove either the tach and/or speedometer, removing the column would be required, I think.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 11:22 PM
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I had a pain putting the steering column back in.

If you have ANYONE that can help guide the column back through the hole ask them.

Trying to lift it, push it, not break the lower dash (oops, too late) while navigating the interlock arm through the hole but not pushing on the plastic sleeve around the column (crack) was definitely the joy of ownership.
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
HA!! Been there!! It was recommended on this site to remove the steering column so that you can remove the whole dash pad. While that is true, It caused a lot more GRIEF than it prevented. If you need to remove either the tach and/or speedometer, removing the column would be required, I think.
Well, now that I’ve managed to drop not one but four light bulbs into the tach and speedo, I guess I will also be doing the tach face replacement I “need” to do (it has the wrong redline). Better to go ahead and do it now anyway.
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 08:09 PM
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to get the dash pad out I found that one must at least lower the steering column and remove the center cluster getting the column back in without a second pair of hands and eyes requires an act of God

Last edited by Two C3's 4 me; Aug 25, 2020 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 03:46 PM
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I got all of the gauge lights working, steering column back in, and the dash mostly assembled. I still have it loose awaiting my new face from Willcox. I’m taking advantage of it being apart to go to the white letter faces and the correct RPM tach.
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 04:12 PM
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always test all of the lights BEFORE you button everything up like the turn signals and brake and brights
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fragil
always test all of the lights BEFORE you button everything up like the turn signals and brake and brights
Thanks, I will. Currently, I have no brake or rear turn signal lights, but I’m almost certain the brake light switch is out. Picking up a new one in the morning.
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