When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Oh, is it? It did not look big enough. OK. I'll take a swing at it after my meetings today.
I have the plate loose, but not completely removed. Probably why I couldn't see the firewall was large enough. Looking at the guides, it looked like this had to come off, but thanks for confirming it could stay.
There is a clip holding the cable onto the post & lever at the bottom of the steering column. And there is a bracket mounted to (and thru) the firewall which prevents that column from being pulled out. You remove the clip and the cable and push the cable to the side; remove the lower-right nut from that bracket (inside surface of firewall) and loosen the other bottom bolt (unthread but do not remove it): now from the outside, move lever/post so that the bracket can clear it when you pull it away from the firewall; now pull steering column backwards and pivot that bracket to provide clearance for column removal. Reverse process to reinstall.
P.S. You need to remove the electrical connectors on the steering column (under the dash) before you attempt removal of the column.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Aug 17, 2020 at 10:21 AM.
There is a clip holding the cable onto the post & lever at the bottom of the steering column. And there is a bracket mounted to (and thru) the firewall which prevents that column from being pulled out. You remove the clip and the cable and push the cable to the side; remove the lower-right nut from that bracket (inside surface of firewall) and loosen the other bottom bolt (unthread but do not remove it): now from the outside, move lever/post so that the bracket can clear it when you pull it away from the firewall; now pull steering column backwards and pivot that bracket to provide clearance for column removal. Reverse process to reinstall.
P.S. You need to remove the electrical connectors on the steering column (under the dash) before you attempt removal of the column.
There is no cable on it, currently. The arm is currently right over the bolt in the firewall bracket and won't budge either up or down (which way should it rotate?). I hit it with some PB and will try again in a bit.
Thanks all, for the column out. It’s funny how one project leads into another. This all started because. Wanted to change out the light bulbs in the dash.
HA!! Been there!! It was recommended on this site to remove the steering column so that you can remove the whole dash pad. While that is true, It caused a lot more GRIEF than it prevented. If you need to remove either the tach and/or speedometer, removing the column would be required, I think.
If you have ANYONE that can help guide the column back through the hole ask them.
Trying to lift it, push it, not break the lower dash (oops, too late) while navigating the interlock arm through the hole but not pushing on the plastic sleeve around the column (crack) was definitely the joy of ownership.
HA!! Been there!! It was recommended on this site to remove the steering column so that you can remove the whole dash pad. While that is true, It caused a lot more GRIEF than it prevented. If you need to remove either the tach and/or speedometer, removing the column would be required, I think.
Well, now that I’ve managed to drop not one but four light bulbs into the tach and speedo, I guess I will also be doing the tach face replacement I “need” to do (it has the wrong redline). Better to go ahead and do it now anyway.
to get the dash pad out I found that one must at least lower the steering column and remove the center cluster getting the column back in without a second pair of hands and eyes requires an act of God
Last edited by Two C3's 4 me; Aug 25, 2020 at 04:11 PM.
I got all of the gauge lights working, steering column back in, and the dash mostly assembled. I still have it loose awaiting my new face from Willcox. I’m taking advantage of it being apart to go to the white letter faces and the correct RPM tach.
always test all of the lights BEFORE you button everything up like the turn signals and brake and brights
Thanks, I will. Currently, I have no brake or rear turn signal lights, but I’m almost certain the brake light switch is out. Picking up a new one in the morning.