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Engine Removal Tips and Ancillaries

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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:17 PM
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Default Engine Removal Tips and Ancillaries

Guys,
I know this has been covered multiple times, but search as I may, I’ve not been able to find specifics for pulling a C3 small block. I have pulled numerous engines so no stranger to the general process, but not once for a 72 C3. The consensus seems to come in from the side with my 2 ton hoist and remove the engine and trans as a unit. I will be taking out the stock 350 and will be replacing with a sbc 434. I would rather not also remove the current 200-4R installed a little over a year ago. I do however recall the bell housing bolts to be a little difficult to get to when I put the new tranny in so maybe removing both would be a time saver in the long run.I know hood will come off, but what about radiator, elec cooling fan and engine ancillaries such as water pump, alt, ac and brackets etc. Any suggestions appreciated.
Also while the engine is out, any additional things I should address because of access?
I have new radiator, elec fan and new front suspension along with a new Borgeson box so those have been addressed.
Thanks all.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:37 PM
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I took the transmission and crossmember out first, supported the engine then used my lift from the side to pull the engine. I did it by myself, no issues. If I was to do the engine and trans together, I would want a second pair of hands.

Last edited by Norm07; Sep 21, 2020 at 06:38 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Norm07
I took the transmission and crossmember out first, supported the engine then used my lift from the side to pull the engine. I did it by myself, no issues. If I was to do the engine and trans together, I would want a second pair of hands.
Thanks Norm07. I know I would be less apprehensive pulling the engine out by itself and by myself.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 07:32 PM
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I do it the same way. My cherry picker is not long enough to approach from the front, so I have to do it from the side. That means the trans has to come out first. Taking both together is not an option for me with the equipment I have.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 08:15 PM
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Mines a BB so taking the trans with it just isn't something I want to do (been in and out enough times it seems I think I should use velcro motor mounts)
Not much room in my garage and the crane isn't that big so it comes out over the passenger fender

I forgot - engine leveler is worth every cent, especially if you are taking the trans at the same time, buy, borrow, rent or steal one!

Biggest pain was always separating the trans (auto) but once I found a set of extra-long ratchet wrenches with zero off-set now it's actually pretty easy to get at those mid and upper bell-housing bolts

Going back in it's always good to have a second set of hands (or third or even forth) especially if they are all car guys and know what's going on so you don't have to instruct every single thing

M

Last edited by Mooser; Sep 21, 2020 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Norm07
I took the transmission and crossmember out first, supported the engine then used my lift from the side to pull the engine. I did it by myself, no issues. If I was to do the engine and trans together, I would want a second pair of hands.

Same here.

Swapped the engine and transmission in my '73 earlier this year. Did it by myself but pulled the transmission separately first. I did it without removing the hood but it was tight. I removed the front drive accessories first to make sure I had enough room with the hood on. As Mooser mentioned, an engine leveler with the hoist helps a lot.

DC
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 09:15 PM
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Make sure to remove the ground.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 09:21 PM
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One thing I learned here on the forum, and it helped a great deal.... we came in from the passenger side, so we removed the right front tire, with a jack stand under the control arm. We also raised the rear a bit, to make a better angle for getting it in. Remove the trans cross member, and throw a moving blanket over the fender. It will be easier than you think.


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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 09:21 PM
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Pull the radiator along with the shrouding and core support. That'll give you an extra foot or so of front clearance with only 6 bolts to remove.

Without knowing the condition of anything, things to do while the engine and trans are out (some because it's easier access, some because it's nice start fresh with new engine):
  • replace positive battery cable if needed;
  • new engine, forward lamp, and A/C wiring harnesses;
  • replace tunnel insulation;
  • detail/repaint firewall and engine compartment panels;
  • replace brake lines;
  • new radiator seals;
  • replace drive shaft u-joints;
  • replace oil pressure line;
  • replace heater hoses;
  • ... that's what come to mind.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 07:17 AM
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I've had mine in and out at least once for each the last 4 winters.
  1. I like to pull them as a unit as I had a manual and the crossmember want removable until the last time
  2. dont forget to remove the grounds, the shift linkage, speedometer cable and any electricals. I sometimes forget the water temp gauge wire I added on the passenger side
  3. I usually leave the radiator support but I pull everything associated with the radiator. THis last time it was out because it was getting replaced and it does give ALOT more room
  4. the engine tilter is a must. Grease the worm gear to make it smooth
  5. the hood removal is a must as well
  6. another helpful hint is to remove the drivers side wheel if your pulling from that side. It will give you more room to move the hoist if you have limited space
  7. When its going back in, pull the dipstick if its on the drivers side and keep an eye on the fuel pump because it will hit the front suspension
  8. I installed a gantry crane to make life easier. I bought 3 I beams off craigslist and a used trolley. And bought 2 others and a electric hoist from harbor freight. THe 2 X axis beams sit on top of my 2 side walls and the Y axis beam is bolted to 2 trolleys that hang from the 2 X axis beams. I think Im into it for around $500 - 600 dollars
  9. I remove the power steering pump and tie it to the front A arm so I dont have to drain the power steering system. Its less of a mess as well
  10. clean and paint the engine compartment while its out. It will be easier to clean each time after this with new paint.. I scraped the frame as well. It looks like a million bucks with just degreaser on a rag now

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Sep 22, 2020 at 07:19 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 12:36 PM
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One thing I did that helped was to add swivel casters to all 4 feet of the hoist, makes it much easier to move the hoist inline with the car as you pull it forward.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 06:22 PM
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I remove and install the engine from the front with the trans in the car, working alone. Of course, you need adequate boom length. Radiator and shroud stay in. Water

pump and stock fan come out first.
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