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1976 Corvette fix up thread

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Old Nov 14, 2020 | 06:45 PM
  #21  
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I thought I did.

The more I look at the photos, the more I question some issues.

Hard to tell, but looks like the dizzys Vac line is not going to the correct port. Which must be "Full Manifold Vacuum". And I am guessing, its the one in front of the carb, passenger side, bottom port.

I like your new Rad. But without a shroud, that spinning fan is doing nothing. NOTHING !!!

You have a PCV valve on one valve cover and a breather on the other. Perfect. Be surprised how many people can't understand that.

Next, remove that glass fuel filter and pitch it in Mondays trash. Remove the cartridge from the chrome fuel log & replace with new filter. Should be done once a year. Then plumb new fuel line from pump to fuel log / filter.

But you will get it. Just takes time to work the bugs out.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 14, 2020 at 06:52 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2020 | 07:31 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
I thought I did.

The more I look at the photos, the more I question some issues.

Hard to tell, but looks like the dizzys Vac line is not going to the correct port. Which must be "Full Manifold Vacuum". And I am guessing, its the one in front of the carb, passenger side, bottom port.

I like your new Rad. But without a shroud, that spinning fan is doing nothing. NOTHING !!!

You have a PCV valve on one valve cover and a breather on the other. Perfect. Be surprised how many people can't understand that.

Next, remove that glass fuel filter and pitch it in Mondays trash. Remove the cartridge from the chrome fuel log & replace with new filter. Should be done once a year. Then plumb new fuel line from pump to fuel log / filter.

But you will get it. Just takes time to work the bugs out.
i was joking...

i appreciate your posts but this isn't my first rodeo

and btw in the winter... it idles at 180f without a shroud, and it doesn't do NOTHING... it does just a little

the shroud broke when i took it out this morning
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Old Nov 14, 2020 | 07:45 PM
  #23  
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afaik ported vacuum is the factory config for emissions.

i just left it how it was, and it is on ported vacuum.

i will switch it to a full vacuum port sometime
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Old Nov 15, 2020 | 11:22 PM
  #24  
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i've never done body work before, i have done some painting, but not a lot.

so i thought i'd give it a try on this bad boy.

not sure how it'll turn out but it seems fine so far.




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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 08:43 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by johnnyb15
i've never done body work before, i have done some painting, but not a lot.

so i thought i'd give it a try on this bad boy.

not sure how it'll turn out but it seems fine so far.



Is the edge of your bondo feathered enough? If you don't overlap it enough and do a 'just the area' repair sometimes it won't blend properly and you'll see an outline of the repair when you get to the paint stage. I usually go atleast an inch over and then feather it in
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 09:07 AM
  #26  
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its about 1/2 inch.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 11:17 PM
  #27  
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It looks ok. About 5 feet away it looks great closer than that you can see flaws. But the whole car has flaws so whatever.

The clear is drying right now I'll have to wait to wet sand it, and then buffer

I should wait overnight... 🤔



Last edited by johnnyb15; Nov 21, 2020 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 01:19 PM
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This is 1000 wet sanded and some rubbing compound. I'm kinda annoyed at this clear I think the can is bad... It says 15mins to dry and 1hr to handle. It was sitting in garage all night with heater on and it wasn't dried all the way at through. When I wet sanded and buffed it rubbed off some of the clear that wasn't completely dry. Last time I did this on trans am it dried really fast....

The can also spit out some crud a couple times

It looks fine from 6+ feet but close you can see where it burned through clear

I'm going to wait a while and sand the clear off and use a new can. It's ok for now.


Last edited by johnnyb15; Nov 21, 2020 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 11:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by johnnyb15
This is 1000 wet sanded and some rubbing compound. I'm kinda annoyed at this clear I think the can is bad... It says 15mins to dry and 1hr to handle. It was sitting in garage all night with heater on and it wasn't dried all the way at through. When I wet sanded and buffed it rubbed off some of the clear that wasn't completely dry. Last time I did this on trans am it dried really fast....

The can also spit out some crud a couple times

It looks fine from 6+ feet but close you can see where it burned through clear

I'm going to wait a while and sand the clear off and use a new can. It's ok for now.
Did you use a 2 part clear with activator?
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Muuhaha
Did you use a 2 part clear with activator?
No not this it was a spray can of clear coat

I used one before and it worked great and dried fast. This can was messed up for some reason
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Old Nov 22, 2020 | 01:14 AM
  #31  
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I filled some more spots. The drivers side mirror was not the original mirror they put some ugly one on and it had a bunch of holes. You can't see out of the mirror anyways so I filled the holes.

I'm going to try and paint these spots tomorrow and maybe try to fix the back of I have time
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Old Nov 22, 2020 | 09:46 PM
  #32  
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I repainted and cleared the back and it looks pretty good now. I bought a new can of clear and it worked fine and dried fast.

The car had some wierd side mirror on it, I filled the holes and painted over it I will probably put the stock mirror on in the correct position at some point.

I fixed a spot on the front bumper and on the
back behind the window on passenger side.

Oh I also fixed a messed up spot on the headlight cover

I'm going to wait until tomorrow evening to wet sand and buff just to be safe on the clear
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Old Nov 25, 2020 | 07:19 PM
  #33  
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Hit it with show car glaze


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Old Nov 25, 2020 | 08:17 PM
  #34  
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Keep us updated on your progress. I too just purchased a corvette in Oct 2020 as a project car and also have a lot of electrical issues I’m trying to figure out. So posts on wiring issues are especially interesting. My dash lights don’t work, temperature gauge and more. I have the complete center cluster out and trying to figure out what’s going. I’m not a mechanic so this is somewhat challenging. Thanks for sharing.
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Old Nov 26, 2020 | 06:53 PM
  #35  
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 11:07 PM
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i installed new tach circuit board and calibrated it, and the tach works now.

i replaced all the bulbs in the speedo / tach area and it looks great.

but now when i use the right turn signal it works, left turn signals shorts out and blows fuse...

i have no brake lights, but it was like that before i did the tach.

the brake lights WERE working not that long ago.

i fucked hate wiring **** that people have messed with and all f'd up. very annoying.

there is a brown wire that has a male end that is just sitting there. i think when i bought the car is was wedged into the brake light fuse.

ugggg
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 11:53 PM
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I checked the brake switch before and it worked but maybe it quit
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 08:19 PM
  #38  
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I put a screw through the harness in the column lol

Put a new turn signal switch in and everything works great lights are very bright and turn signals brake lights all work.

I need to take steering wheel off again because it's ****-eyed a little bit which is extremely annoying to me.

Still need to install fans and adjust shifter linkage
Car is pretty close to be pretty nice.

3100 rpms (unverified) at 60mph 😬
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Old Dec 17, 2020 | 11:10 PM
  #39  
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Rear badge

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Old Dec 17, 2020 | 11:11 PM
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i installed election fans they work great, i just need a different relay the fans never go off because the "off" is 165f lol... all the kits had 185 on 165 off lol.

Maybe a resistor in the line from sender to trick relay



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