1976 Corvette fix up thread
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i was able to get the shifting better...
all i did was shim the shifter bracket with a washer and it shifts into 3rd now easily
the underside of the car has serious rust on the floor boards
i will had to take care of that, its rusted through to the carpet on the drivers side really bad and just starting on the passenger side.
its not too hard to peel back carpet and weld in some sheet metal
all i did was shim the shifter bracket with a washer and it shifts into 3rd now easily
the underside of the car has serious rust on the floor boards
i will had to take care of that, its rusted through to the carpet on the drivers side really bad and just starting on the passenger side.
its not too hard to peel back carpet and weld in some sheet metal
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i ordered vision wheels off ebay with -6 offset and 4.25" backspacing. the same specs as the ecklers ones they advert FOR c3 corvettes. they were really discounted, $240 shipped for 4
then i ordered a trim ring and center cap package from ecklers for $260 with the GM licensed derby caps
then i ordered a trim ring and center cap package from ecklers for $260 with the GM licensed derby caps
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: North tonawanda NY
i ordered vision wheels off ebay with -6 offset and 4.25" backspacing. the same specs as the ecklers ones they advert FOR c3 corvettes. they were really discounted, $240 shipped for 4
then i ordered a trim ring and center cap package from ecklers for $260 with the GM licensed derby caps
then i ordered a trim ring and center cap package from ecklers for $260 with the GM licensed derby caps
Last edited by augiedoggy; Dec 19, 2020 at 12:10 PM.
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been driving around car for a while basically flawless, runs drives great. goes 70+mph on freeway no problem.
went to go to gym today and backing out of driveway linkage popped off stuck in middle of street.
had my boy hold clutch in and pushed it back into the garage.
the bottom linkage is popped off, and has no cotter pin in it, or it broke off when i tried to go out of reverse, i should've seen it when i was working on car before. but who knows.
i tried to move it around but i can't get it out of reverse.
any advice?
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
You've done a lot since you bought it.
Rookie suggestions:
Jack up the rear of the car high enough to crawl under it/put jack stands under it.
Get someone to hold the clutch pedal down.
Crawl under and Try tapping the shift arms with a rubber mallet to get the synchronizers-gears to release from each other.
You may even have to disconnect the driveshaft.
May as well remove the transmission drain plug to see how much crud drains out...then fill with new gear oil.
Keep us updated.
Rookie suggestions:
Jack up the rear of the car high enough to crawl under it/put jack stands under it.
Get someone to hold the clutch pedal down.
Crawl under and Try tapping the shift arms with a rubber mallet to get the synchronizers-gears to release from each other.
You may even have to disconnect the driveshaft.
May as well remove the transmission drain plug to see how much crud drains out...then fill with new gear oil.
Keep us updated.
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I fixed the linkage the cotter pin must have been rusty and just broke and everything got all out fo wack.
I used a small hammer to tap the reverse arm back into the neutral position and hooked linkage back up and put a new pin in and everything is peachy drove it all yesterday in 105f weather and it never overheats it runs like 200 down the highway at 70mph but never overheats.
I used a small hammer to tap the reverse arm back into the neutral position and hooked linkage back up and put a new pin in and everything is peachy drove it all yesterday in 105f weather and it never overheats it runs like 200 down the highway at 70mph but never overheats.
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