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bought this 76 stingray pretty cheap on craigslist, gunna fix up and drive for a while i guess maybe trade off or flip.
paid 4400. its a 4spd or i wouldn't' be interested. also L82 so better of the two engines but still pretty gutless smog motor... 220hp and 275tq i think. i haven't' looked up any of the other options.
oh and the wheels are horrible ...enkie... maybe they are worth something? dunno thinking about corvette rallies
i didn't take any interior pics but its missing a couple little pieces here and there but its pretty nice. seats are good etc... black interior
fixed a few things, lights were stuck up, when i got in car there was hissing from under dash... duh was just a broken vacuum line. its really hard to shift into 3rd the shifter hits the console. just needs linkage adjusted... haven't done it yet. radiator leaks, tried stop leak didn't work so i bought a aluminum radiator off ebay. car didn't run right and wouldn't' start cold without spray. the primary accelerator pump arm was frozen from sitting so i just gave it a few taps and it broke loose and works fine. tach doesnt work but it looks like the wire is fucked up so probably an easy fix
there is some fiberglass damage on the rear bumper i'm going to try and fix and paint, we'll see how it ends up but i think it'll be fine. not a show car.
hit it with rubbing compound can see damage on the rear radiator leak caused by missing rubber i'm guessing. cut up some rubber pieces i had laying around from an old rubber track shroud was all messed up i'm guessing previous owner cut it up to get it out easier??? clean up cut painted with cheap paint
radiator is supposed to come today, should be running today at some point.
i really need to get it button'd up and antifreeze in it. its getting cold here. there is some water in the block but it has some antifreeze in it so i'm not worried but would like to get it situated normal
You might want to run the VIN and see if its actually an L82.
The valve covers on the motor are L48 valve covers.
I worked at a Chevy dealer in the mid 70's while going to college. We sold a bunch of L82 badges as you could easily add 30hp to an L48 for only $5 ;-)
You might want to run the VIN and see if its actually an L82.
The valve covers on the motor are L48 valve covers.
I worked at a Chevy dealer in the mid 70's while going to college. We sold a bunch of L82 badges as you could easily add 30hp to an L48 for only $5 ;-)
i'll check, but it doent' matter to me anyways. it might be lol.
i dont know if the valve covers are original or not
You might want to run the VIN and see if its actually an L82.
The valve covers on the motor are L48 valve covers.
I worked at a Chevy dealer in the mid 70's while going to college. We sold a bunch of L82 badges as you could easily add 30hp to an L48 for only $5 ;-)
it has the L82 console and plaques and crap in the interior
I can't get the rear tail lights working or rear markers, front markers don't work either.
Headlights work and dash lights work brake lights work. The switch doesn't work right but I hot wired the taillights jumping the 12v to the taillight wire on the plug. Still nothing
No power to socket in rear, ground by antenna is old but looks is connected. I tried to ground socket on exhaust but still didn't work.
i got the lights working, after fishing around behind the dash a previous owner added a relay, i'm guessing the old trick to give more power to the lights to make them brighter.
well the power wire to the relay was disconnected from the battery, after connecting it.... most of the lights worked.
all the marker lights work, taillights work, brake lights worked, until you have the taillights on then passenger side brake light did not work. they put a different socket in that one, and the metal was messed up inside and not making good contact, i bent the metal around for it to make better contact and it works.
i ordered a new socket.
when new light switch is added i think the lights will be good to go. its nice to see all the marker lights work, license plate light too
Last edited by johnnyb15; Nov 13, 2020 at 11:12 PM.
after some back and forth with ebay person with little english they refunded money on the radiator and told me to keep it... so i am going to make it fit. i broke out the 20 year old tiny arc welder
i modified the top brackets already... will try to take a look at the bottom brackets... the weather is really shitty right now
Last edited by johnnyb15; Nov 13, 2020 at 11:13 PM.
i set timing at 12 and it actually runs pretty good. stays at 180 even without the shroud. the shroud was so old and shitty it snapped when i was taking it out this time.
Last edited by johnnyb15; Nov 14, 2020 at 06:12 PM.
I would be very concerned about the condition of the water jacket. In one of the photos, the Intake has a heater hose nipple fitting that is so corroded that the port is almost closed off. That is an indication that no one ever flush the cooling system. To verify that, in another photo the passenger side cylinder head, front water port shows horrible corrosion too. You can bet that the block and heads is just full of rust.
You might want to consider introducing an coolant acid wash and back flush after you get it up and running. I bet brown **** comes out of the Rad drain plug for an hour straight.
And if you plan on collecting fire insurance, continue using that see-thru gas filter piece of crap. Why are there two fuel filters? There is already one inside that fuel log. I have that same chrome filter. Summit carries the filter cartridge and the "O" rings needed for replacement.
You will also need a fan shroud in place to keep temps under 240*
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 14, 2020 at 06:05 PM.
1976 Corvette fix up thread
