When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 69 L46 that I'll be doing a frame off and its got power nothing...except it does have factory AC. I sort of want to keep it the way it came but it is sort of a PIA. I don't like the manual brakes - maybe its because I feel like I don't have as much control.
Its not an NCRS car, but as I go through it, I will try to keep originality where I can (trying to stick to the script) and I am adding some modest mods - suspension and exhaust. Generally my approach to the mods is that it's easy to go stock.
I'm interested in some feedback on making a power conversion - pros/cons etc
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
I did an upgrade on my wife's 1967 Camaro to power brakes and it was not that hard. I have read that you will get about 30% more force with this change on a Vette. I am also considering doing this as well.
Your choice of brake pads may be the reason for your 'poor braking' concern. You might ask others with manual brakes which pads have better stopping action.
Power brakes do not provide better stopping capability; the merely produce it with less pedal force.
Definitely convert it. If the car is no fun to drive, you'll quickly grow to hate it.
I wouldn't say I hate it... It's fun to drive. It does feel like (compared the last 69 with power) it doesn't want to stop. I should mention that the brakes even prior to this have been completely replaced etc. Always one of the first things that I do.
Your choice of brake pads may be the reason for your 'poor braking' concern. You might ask others with manual brakes which pads have better stopping action.
Power brakes do not provide better stopping capability; the merely produce it with less pedal force.
Yeah, I get it. The pads used are the pads that came with the rebuild kit from Lone Star. I don't know if they're good or not?
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C8 Stingray of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
After I drive a car with power brakes, a manual braking car "feels" like its not stopping even thought its functioning properly. I become accustomed to this feeling after some driving to the point, while though distracting, I can't justified conversion to PB.
Nick, add the power brakes. You will have to do some drilling or swap out your clutch/brake pedal bracket as those are different from manual to power brakes. While you are at it you can always swap out that throw out bearing to the Muncie and add a McLeod hydraulic throw-out bearing or consider just adding a Hydroboost setup and you can have both through hydraulics. My Hydroboost and Tremec with hydraulic clutch worked like a charm. Good shifting, good braking. Just a thought.
And while you are at it why not consider a Borgeson power steering setup too. You won't regret it.
Make it what you want it to be.
David
Am I correct in that the PS conversion is simply bolt on and that the PB would need a new hole or hole extension for the brake booster and rather than a whole new clutch/brake frame, it would be mounting the plunger clevis in the other mount location. I've read that it's moving it from the upper position to the lower...or the other way around. Obviously a PB master and changing out the master to proportioning/distribution block/valve.
I removed both power brakes and steering from my 77 and replaced them with factory manual systems. Much more fun, solid and reliable. I would not have it any other way.
You can find those "steps" if you do a SEARCH for "Power brake conversion". But, I think you will be disappointed if you go to the trouble and expense of converting to P/B. I strongly suggest that you just insert some new, more aggressive brake pads FIRST....to see if you need more than that (or not). Much easier to do and you will know for sure if you really need power brakes.
Im a stock-only guy, but adding options to a ‘69 for drivability like power brakes, power steering and tilt-tele can be done in a manner that looks 100% original and really improves the experience. I vote yes, please.
I thought I'd revisit this thread as I'm moving closer to needing to make a decision on the PS at least...chassis is about done and I want to do this while the body is off. One of my goals is a clean drop fit with minimal to no frame or component modification. Borgeson is the way I want to go and I know I need to collapse the column. This should not be that bad considering it's a standard column and I've had it rebuilt. My concern is interference with the clutch linkage and/or brake distribution valve and MC to DV lines and that this affects pre-74 cars. Can anyone provide some install feedback on any installation issues with a 69 4spd SB car (particularly any interference issues)? Photos would be great too!