Little back story then to the car. I’ve worked in the collision industry for over 20 years. I have built and restored several cars over the years. Not that any of this matters as corvettes are their own animals.

The car is a 1968 C3 corvette. Started out as just want it painted.... famous last words. I got the car into the shop and after some light tear down I decide the body needs to come off. The car had been sitting for about 20 years. Body mounts are gone, rust corrosion and mice. Fast forward about 4 weeks and I have the body off, frame stripped.

 

I admire your ambition and skill.

 

Not so much ambition as it is the owner wouldn’t take no for an answer lol. I am still shocked as to the parts cost for these cars. And the amount of labor already involved. I have almost 50 hours into tear down and evaluation. My biggest question is what is everyone using for rivets on the body?

 

You can still buy the body rivots. The source I used when purchasing is Dr. REBUILD. T

 

First of all, welcome!! You've discovered a couple of things about Corvettes/C3s: you're right - they're their own animal. And the Corvette tax on parts. But they're beautiful, great fun, and iconic. Lots of super help on this forum. And thank you for saving another C3!! Paul

 

First off thanks for the help with the rivets. All is going well so far. Frame came back from the blast shop this morning. Have a few areas of rust that I have to deal with. Worst spot is about the size of a silver dollar. Hopefully tomorrow I can weld in the new pieces and get her sprayed with some paint.

 

You are 4 years ahead of me!

 

Well this morning brought snow and wind to Northern Michigan. So my next completion will be chassis and under body. I have most of the parts sourced that are needed to get the chassis done and body back on the frame. I’m a long way from that though. Here is my to do list before I can get the body back on the frame
1. Frame repair and paint
2. brake and fuel lines, fuel tank
3. Suspension and brakes
4. Repair both #4 body mounts on body
5. replace all metal reinforcements on body
6. sand blast and paint inner rocker
7. paint underside of body
8.install floor insulation and heat shields
9.set motor, and drive line

I think that is a pretty accurate list. Chime in if anyone has any other suggestions. Customer wants to do a 383 with five speed fuel injected. Gonna run Detroit speed front and rear suspension,

Anyone have any idea what size fuel lines I should run I’m running hard line since it’s easy and way better then a floppy braided line my thoughts are 3/8 fuel line with 5/16 return? I’m open to suggestions.

 

You would be wise to the buy the factory assembly manuals available for these cars, as well as catalogs from Zip Corvette, Paragon, etc. With this information, many questions will be answered with proper review of these publications. I could not have built the car without it. Saves lots of questions on this forum as well. Almost every part of this car is available new, and many vendors selling used parts.

 

Here are some pictures of the parking brake cable and pulley hope this helps

 

THATS exactly what I needed. Previous owners gutted the parking brake assembly.
You and other C3 Members are keeping me on track.

 

i would add the stiffeners at the kickups. that custom painted welding helmet sez you are not afraid of a little welding.

 

I've heard Doc Rebuild has good. accurate parts, but a bad thing is that he's temporarily stopped doing business until this Covid Crap is under better control. He's 70+ and wants to keep safety a priority. He hasn't set a date to reopen but his telephone rep told me that he'll update the website with info when the time comes...

Paul

 

So after two more days I’m pretty sure I swept up the last pile she is going to leave on my floor.( doubtful I know). At this point I have 82 hours in. Frame is painted but not repaired( had to get something on the bare steel), body is torn down rockers are sand blasted and painted with Chassis Saver. Rear suspension and Differential is ready to send to Bairs. I have removed all brackets from the body and am taking them to the powder coated this week. Cleaned up 70-80% of the interior.

Next weekend it’s time to start under body repair all body mounts need to be blasted and painted #1 needs to be reattached,#4 need everything nut cage, reinforcement.couple of small punctures and minor cracks in tithe fire wall and tunnel, Needs all new clips and insulation, and heat shields. Well other then it’s a complete mess and my shop looks like a corvette exploded in it it seems to be going pretty well. With the amount of rivets I drilled out and those that were rotted off, Aluminum rivets into steel is a terrible idea. I think I’ll do stainless steel rivets with stainless mandrels. Only issue I have with this is in the tiny nose support and since paint does not stick well the stainless steel I will use the aluminum. I realize I’m gonna draw a lot of controversy on the rivet thing but get over it that seems to be the most logical choice.

 

Good luck. I hope you get it done to your satisfaction!

 

Well this weekend brought progress. I was able to get all the major fiberglass work completed. Still have a few things that need to be glassed but the bulk of it is done. The fire wall and tunnel are cleaned and just about ready for paint, I removed the headlamp mounting panel and bonding strip.( worst job ever). It was a complete mess. I started by grinding all the rivets off the mounting panel. That wasn’t so bad. Next I had to get the old bonding strip off so my handy dandy roloc grinder came into play. What a mess and itchy. I fixed the major cracks on the hood surround and nose cone, inner fenders where the hood mounts and a few spots here and there. As always while resin was curing I was stripping paint. Cleaned up some more of the interior and removed number 1 and 4 body mounts from the body. Progress is being made slower some days then others. Most of the parts have been ordered and I’m waiting on a few that are on back order. Then I can get to the chassis and start putting things back together.

 

Every "little bit" you can do when it comes to repairs is a good thing!

 

Please be advised that you had to do those fiberglass repairs by the hood corners because GM did not properly support the very heavy nose on early 68 Corvettes. They had to add a nose rod, two triangle brackets and two "twist" brackets to support it.
So when you assemble your car, please add these very much needed brackets. I speak from experience having owned my 68 coupe for 48 1/2 years. Lou.

 

Thanks for the heads up on that I found the triangle pieces but I will look into the twist brackets. I appreciate the help.

 

Do you have the long nose rod that goes from the center of the nose down to the bottom of the radiator support? I hope that you know about the very fragile 68 only flat finish center gauge bezel breaking if you tug on it. Oh, my 68 coupe is also white with a red interior. Lou.