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Well this morning brought snow and wind to Northern Michigan. So my next completion will be chassis and under body. I have most of the parts sourced that are needed to get the chassis done and body back on the frame. I’m a long way from that though. Here is my to do list before I can get the body back on the frame
1. Frame repair and paint
2. brake and fuel lines, fuel tank
3. Suspension and brakes
4. Repair both #4 body mounts on body
5. replace all metal reinforcements on body
6. sand blast and paint inner rocker
7. paint underside of body
8.install floor insulation and heat shields
9.set motor, and drive line
I think that is a pretty accurate list. Chime in if anyone has any other suggestions. Customer wants to do a 383 with five speed fuel injected. Gonna run Detroit speed front and rear suspension,
Anyone have any idea what size fuel lines I should run I’m running hard line since it’s easy and way better then a floppy braided line my thoughts are 3/8 fuel line with 5/16 return? I’m open to suggestions.
My thoughts.
1. Check the windshield frame. Pull the glass and inspect it if you have not already. These are notorious for rotting out.
2. Depending on the HP goals and how it’s being fueled a 3/8 inlet and 5/16 should be adequate. Its good up to 500 ish hp regardless of injection/carb type. Once you get above 500 it’s not quite as clear cut and fuel pressure, whether or not your running nitrous, and so on start to factor in.
The crate motor arrived today from Blueprint engines. 383 stroker 438hp. The transmission will be a few more weeks. An American Power TKX 5 speed.
Jumping over to the frame this weekend. New issue arises. I want to put kick up braces from the inside like the 69 and such had only issue I see is not having clearance for the rear compartment on the body? Anyone done this or have any experience? Thanks again
Well it’s been a couple of weeks had to take some time off. I was starting to dream about it. I’m starting to entree the intimate part of this relationship and it needs to take a backseat. Anyway enough with my mental state.
Im making progress, inner rockers are done engine compartment needs another coat of pain and so does one wheel well. ( I ran out of paint) new doors showed up Friday, have some work to do on them. I picked up my first batch of items from the powder coater and dropped off the second batch,. The interior is cleaned up and quick coat of rust oleum has been done.
The frame is done!!!! ready for reassembly as soon as my van steel front and rear suspension arrive. New inner frame horns, new frame section right perimeter frame, kick up braces, and a little rot repair and stiffener braces, new body mounts at #2&3. I think that’s it oh yeah and I started cleaning up bolts for reassembly. I am using my sons rock tumbler with medium sand.
On another note I upgraded my wood stove in the shop. Found a nice used wood furnace from a friend of a friend. Such a wonderful improvement to my old one. Having a comfortable and tidy work area make the job so much easier and enjoyable.
Lou,
Thanks again for the help. I too have owned my '68 for quite some years - since 1973.
Can the parts you mention (in a 2012 post) for the heavy nose fiberglass hood corner cracking be retrofitted with the car all assembled?
The kickup supports require a body off welding job. Are any of the small triangular supports able to be welded onto the frame with the body on?
Also interested in obtaining a center gauge bezel. I'm one of the thousands that have a broken one. I've checked and the only place I've seen an occasional correct one for '68 is on ebay but in pretty bad condition. - Dave
Yes, Dave the two triangle brackets can be fitted on the car. There has to be a weld nut on the metal headlight reinforcement glued to the underside of the nose. I don't know if early 68's have that weld nut. I have a new hood surround on my car. You have to drill two holes in the fender skirt to hold the triangle bracket. You need two bolts and a metal plate that goes under the two bolt heads to secure it to the skirt.
The twist brackets can also be installed on the car. They have a small bolt that holds them to the end of the nose reinforcement and the other end is placed under the bolt that holds the outer end of the metal bumper.
See if you can find an AIM that shows you these bracket instillations. I broke my gauge bezel when the car was four and a half years old and GM did not have any new one's back then when I went to the dealer. Lou.
Wow, fast forward 4 years to a really nice ‘68. It looks awesome. There are sooo many cars taken apart by excited owners but they never go back together again. It’s special to see a restoration followed through into a really nice ride.
Your body jig looks unbelievably useful. Did you build it?
