When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I notice many owners get rid of all the attachments that connect to the breather and just go with a Crome housing that shows the air filter. My question is this, does anyone feel that by doing this it creates any issues with smog pump hoses and hot air hoses or anything else that was connected but is no longer? I am contemplating replacing several of these hoses that have disintegrated over time, however I could save that expense by just going with an updated housing and forget all the hoses. Any advise on which route I should take? I live in Florida where it is mostly hot and if these components are primarily used to warm up the carburetor and open up the throttle, should this be something I should concern myself with?
Unless I'm dealing with a totally original car, I get rid of all that junk. Smog pump, lines, egr, heat risers, everything. I run simple push in breathers.
Unless I'm dealing with a totally original car, I get rid of all that junk. Smog pump, lines, egr, heat risers, everything. I run simple push in breathers.
I believe he is referring to the duck work that connects the air cleaner to the air inlet that goes over top the radiator. If so, then I would leave it all since it pulls in cool air. With just an open element air clearer the air to the carb is just hot air from the engine.
The dual-snorkel intake of later L82s (and all 1980 cars) is tough to beat. My 80 came with it, and I installed it on my 79. I blocked off all of the vacuum ports, the breather hole (I have push-in breathers in the valve covers), and removed the vacuum operated flapper valves. It takes two extra seconds to remove my air cleaner assembly, but it's worth it.
I believe he is referring to the duck work that connects the air cleaner to the air inlet that goes over top the radiator. If so, then I would leave it all since it pulls in cool air. With just an open element air clearer the air to the carb is just hot air from the engine.
The dual-snorkel intake of later L82s (and all 1980 cars) is tough to beat. My 80 came with it, and I installed it on my 79. I blocked off all of the vacuum ports, the breather hole (I have push-in breathers in the valve covers), and removed the vacuum operated flapper valves. It takes two extra seconds to remove my air cleaner assembly, but it's worth it.
Soo many Vette owners throw those cold air intakes out while the ricers all go out and pay big money to ADD cold air intakes to their import cars.
I believe he is referring to the duck work that connects the air cleaner to the air inlet that goes over top the radiator. If so, then I would leave it all since it pulls in cool air. With just an open element air clearer the air to the carb is just hot air from the engine.
Ahh, I see. I always make sure its breathing cool air. It's amazing how many people disregard the value of fresh air.
If you don't have emissions "issues" with removal of the EPA-related stuff, you can remove it. Just make sure that the items that are needed for the engine to run properly remain in place and are functional.
If you don't have emissions "issues" with removal of the EPA-related stuff, you can remove it. Just make sure that the items that are needed for the engine to run properly remain in place and are functional.
we don’t have emissions “issues” down here in Florida lol, there is a god. I just wanted the engine to get what it needs to run efficiently and replace things that were essential without spending money foolishly.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Just remember, cai is only good at high rpm and good ducting, which the stock L-82 doesn't have - too many bends and corrugated ducting. Also remember that cai came on some muscle cars back in the day and lots more didn't have cai. They had open air filters. The L-88 was cai i.e. designed for the track. Hemi cars - designed for the track. But the 427/435 had open air element. 396/375 Chevelles also. The engineers weren't stupid. So do you really think there was a substantial benefit for a cai in a street muscle car back in the day? OP, if you like the clean look of an open air element, put one on. If you want a functional cai because you like going to the track often, get a good cai like cowl induction with a large open plenum. I removed my cai for a 14"X4" open air element. No air restrictions. Runs to 6200 rpm just fine. Just like the old days.
Just remember, cai is only good at high rpm and good ducting, which the stock L-82 doesn't have - too many bends and corrugated ducting. Also remember that cai came on some muscle cars back in the day and lots more didn't have cai. They had open air filters. The L-88 was cai i.e. designed for the track. Hemi cars - designed for the track. But the 427/435 had open air element. 396/375 Chevelles also. The engineers weren't stupid. So do you really think there was a substantial benefit for a cai in a street muscle car back in the day? OP, if you like the clean look of an open air element, put one on. If you want a functional cai because you like going to the track often, get a good cai like cowl induction with a large open plenum. I removed my cai for a 14"X4" open air element. No air restrictions. Runs to 6200 rpm just fine. Just like the old days.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I salute you guys that take the time to research and post results. But just what are the results? One needs to compare the delta T between open element and cai and then do the math i.e. exactly what is the benefit, if any, in hp, torque, mpg? I can assure you that the hp benefit at 60 mph will not be worth mentioning when it only takes ~50 hp to propel the car at that speed. And at 30 mph, can it be measured? So when it comes to cai/open element comparisons, just saying cooler air is ingested doesn't mean anything. You gotta show the math or real world track results.
WOW, love the cleanliness of your engine area! I truly believe it should be taken care of under the hood just like outside of the car! This advice issue is getting too deep in the weeds. My only question was if I should keep all intake hoses and emissions tubing connected in order to keep things like they should be. I don’t take my car to the track, hell I barely drive it. I’m not a motor head and I don’t make any mods to the car, I just wanted simple advice, nothing more. I do appreciate all the pictures and diagrams as they help immensely. 😊😊
WOW, love the cleanliness of your engine area! I truly believe it should be taken care of under the hood just like outside of the car! This advice issue is getting too deep in the weeds. My only question was if I should keep all intake hoses and emissions tubing connected in order to keep things like they should be. I don’t take my car to the track, hell I barely drive it. I’m not a motor head and I don’t make any mods to the car, I just wanted simple advice, nothing more. I do appreciate all the pictures and diagrams as they help immensely. 😊😊
haha not mine this was 6 miles new off internet..
here is mine without emissions..
GM figured a 10hp increase in the L48 engine from ‘78 to ‘79 by adopting the dual snorkel intake from the ‘78 L82 and increasing the exhaust diameter to 2.5” from the front Y rearward. Thought I could upgrade my ‘78 L48 with a dual snorkel, but an exhaustive search found nothing. Had a custom CAI made of fiberglass by another forum member. Looks awesome, but $500.
Cold air induction looks good on paper, but for driving on the street at responsible speeds, nobody is convincing me that it makes a bit of difference. But.....people who love "tricks" to spend money on will argue all day long. On a race track at high speeds......it may be the difference in winning or losing. ON the streets, its all just "gadgetry". But, heh, I am guilty of gadgetry too,.....the difference is that I just admit it.
Last edited by Shovels and Vettes; Mar 29, 2021 at 04:33 PM.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by ledger35
WOW, love the cleanliness of your engine area! I truly believe it should be taken care of under the hood just like outside of the car! This advice issue is getting too deep in the weeds. My only question was if I should keep all intake hoses and emissions tubing connected in order to keep things like they should be. I don’t take my car to the track, hell I barely drive it. I’m not a motor head and I don’t make any mods to the car, I just wanted simple advice, nothing more. I do appreciate all the pictures and diagrams as they help immensely. 😊😊
Are you looking for something like this? Go back and read post #2. You don't need all that smog ****.
Last edited by resdoggie; Mar 29, 2021 at 05:38 PM.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by Kerschmolar
GM figured a 10hp increase in the L48 engine from ‘78 to ‘79 by adopting the dual snorkel intake from the ‘78 L82 and increasing the exhaust diameter to 2.5” from the front Y rearward. Thought I could upgrade my ‘78 L48 with a dual snorkel, but an exhaustive search found nothing. Had a custom CAI made of fiberglass by another forum member. Looks awesome, but $500.
At what rpm? Somewhere north where a lot of guys don't go.
Breather Question
