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Hello, Just signed in as a new member. I just purchased a 1971 big block 454/365hp coupe with only 21,019 miles. Been in clean storage for 35yrs. Last inspected in 1986. I am the second owner. Just a little history to get started. I am not new to the corvette world, as i had a 61` and a 66`. Now for
the big question. I want to replace all the fuel and vent lines as they are questionable as to whether they are safe. What are the different parts and pieces would need to be removed (body mounts are obvious) to make this happen. As much detail would be helpful or direct me to any publication that would be helpful. I will respond to any responses as soon as i can as the weather is nice here in Maine and have plenty of work to do. Thank you.
Richard
If you must do it with original parts, you will have to make some 'space' at the right-rear body mount. On the other hand, if you do NOT need to go back to "original" configuration, just replace the fuel line with NiCu (Nickel-Copper) line...which is much easier to work with and some compression fittings. There is no pressure in that line...only for gravity feed--unless you want to go EFI with a pump in the fuel tank. Why make things harder than they need to be?
I am quite fussy when it comes to doing things the correct way. I have ordered all the correct lines and a machinist friend of mine has a lift in his garage and together we should be able to get it done in a day. Thank you for your suggestion as another mechanic
who runs his own garage suggested the same thing.
If the car only has 21,019 miles and has been in clean storage for 35yrs the hard lines should be fine, the rubber hoses is what I would be concerned about.
a machinist friend of mine has a lift in his garage and together we should be able to get it done in a day. .
Not sure if you quite understood 7T1's post. To replace the fuel line with a complete factory type line, I believe you may need to separate the body from the frame to get the line through the rear frame kick up area. I've never done it. But this is my understanding, and the reason why many splice in a flexible line for that area, or make a complete new line out of flexible material. My factory steel line is still good but I did replace all the rubber hoses. Surprisingly the rear rubber was still pretty good. Good luck. Let us know how you make out. I'm sure more and more fuel lines due to age will need replacing. Your experience will be helpful.
If the car is not going to go thru "judging" for originality, why would someone punish themselves trying to separate a 40+ year-old body connection. Odds are that when that separation occurs, there will be "other things" that need to be addressed...possibly because of the mechanical work being done to it. All I can do is advise and shake my head in amazement...
If the car is not going to go thru "judging" for originality, why would someone punish themselves trying to separate a 40+ year-old body connection. Odds are that when that separation occurs, there will be "other things" that need to be addressed...possibly because of the mechanical work being done to it. All I can do is advise and shake my head in amazement...
Get the body mount kit while your there and pre soak your nuts and bolts on your body mounts you will have to lift the carpet up in both rear corners in the cabin to get to the back ones
with a car with 20,000 miles they should not be that bad ,they sell the right rubber hoses from any corvette supplier theres a S hose to the fuel pump and a vent hose
I did it with a friend and took about 5 hours with Beers
Replacing stock fuel and return lines with stock fuel and return lines is impossible with the body on the chassis. That is why you see so many cars with rubber jumpers and fittings on the fuel lines where folks have tried to do just that. The access to the upper kick-up area isn't accessible from under the car. If you are fussy about your lines then the bending you are going to be doing to them to try and feed them up where they have to go isn't going to make you at all happy. I have done quite a few of these now and you need that body up and off the chassis to make is possible. How far off is a matter of debate and I am sure many here will debate it. While it is up I would certainly replace the eight body mounts and inspect your chassis body mounts while you are at it. Some do one side at a time, I never had success with that personally but I am sure it can be done. Watch the stress on your front bumper mounting components too if you lift it very far off of the chassis. Good luck with this, been there and still have the scars on my hands.
Life is always more interesting when you own a C-3.
David Howard
AllVettes4Me