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Stupid question day and my apologies, some of my terminology is lacking.So my car won’t start, it’s been sitting for two weeks. My battery is dead, no big deal I’ll jump it. After a few failed jumps, I’ll test the battery.
My battery tested for 1125CCA and it’s rated for 800CCA... so with help of a fb group I track a(hopefully The) problem to my negative/ground cable.
I was told, that any cable would work. So I got a correct size cable, with the side battery connectors.
And they different, I had planned to rebuy connectors. Do I need to buy a new cable to match the old(will be replaced new) connectors?
I will post pictures of the dead old cable, the old cable connector compared to the new. And the grommet for the old connector won’t fit the new..
my typing and my thoughts are messy, I’m sorry. I know nothing about battery’s and if I do it wrong my car could catch fire. I know I look dumb, but I just don’t want to make a mistake and set it on fire. Very obviously the old cable... I had no idea it was this bad until I was under it.... The old cable has a built in rubber cover and the new cable came with adjustable rubber covers
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 21, 2021 at 08:03 PM.
Reason: Spelling/grammar
electrolysis. differential metal corrosion. steel to the pot metal lug to copper cable. all that electricity through three different types of metal. doesn't matter if the car never saw rain. it saw electricity. the lug. you won't get it off or back on new cable. the correct cable with lug is pricey. wrap tape around the wire and jam it into the hole. we don't drive through big puddles much anyway.
Once you have your new cable installed, you can always seal the hole with a bit of silicone sealer. will keep the cable from rubbing on the edge of the hole as well. Then go check the ground cable from the engine block to the frame. just in front of the starter motor.
Once you have your new cable installed, you can always seal the hole with a bit of silicone sealer. will keep the cable from rubbing on the edge of the hole as well. Then go check the ground cable from the engine block to the frame. just in front of the starter motor.
can I use a bolt or does it have to be a grommet like this? Couldn’t I just get a bolt and washer to make sure I get a good seal?.
I’m not worried about the connection in the frame, I’ll just lock that in with a bolt. I’m worried about a poor connection in the cab cause cab.
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 21, 2021 at 08:39 PM.
Some work on our part will save you $100+shipping.....
Clean the original threaded lug with a wire brush or a wire wheel mounted in an electric drill.
If necessary enlarge the hole in the new cable end that bolts to the battery side post.
Use plenty of grease on the lug bolt and the new cable end before bolting it to the battery.
Clean the area on the frame where the other end of the negative cable bolts to until you see shiny metal on the frame.
Apply grease to the shiny clean area on the frame, to the cable end, and to the bolt.
Bolt the new cable to the frame.
If starting problems persist you may have to remove several inches of plastic insulation from the POSITIVE battery cable to see if corrosion is developing.
If so, cut the corroded part of the Positive cable off and crimp a new end onto the cable that will fit the Positive side post on the battery.
You may have to reposition the Positive cable under the car to have enough slack to bolt the repaired Positive cable to the Positive side post.
Some work on our part will save you $100+shipping.....
Clean the original threaded lug with a wire brush or a wire wheel mounted in an electric drill.
If necessary enlarge the hole in the new cable end that bolts to the battery side post.
Use plenty of grease on the lug bolt and the new cable end before bolting it to the battery.
Clean the area on the frame where the other end of the negative cable bolts to until you see shiny metal on the frame.
Apply grease to the shiny clean area on the frame, to the cable end, and to the bolt.
Bolt the new cable to the frame.
If starting problems persist you may have to remove several inches of plastic insulation from the POSITIVE battery cable to see if corrosion is developing.
If so, cut the corroded part of the Positive cable off and crimp a new end onto the cable that will fit the Positive side post on the battery.
You may have to reposition the Positive cable under the car to have enough slack to bolt the repaired Positive cable to the Positive side post.
would I be able to rethread this grommet? The threads on it seem too flat and spacious.
I’d like to stretch the new connector to fit the old grommet, however, the grommet is as wide as the whole connector.
the rubber on the battery terminal end? inconsequential. rubber around the pos is a protector from arcs and sparks. the negative lug is just fine without it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/18483673950...xoCoSoQAvD_BwE i thought you meant the big rubber grommet that seals the battery compartment from water splashing in.
Last edited by derekderek; May 21, 2021 at 09:15 PM.
the rubber on the battery terminal end? inconsequential. rubber around the pos is a protector from arcs and sparks. the negative lug is just fine without it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/18483673950...xoCoSoQAvD_BwE i thought you meant the big rubber grommet that seals the battery compartment from water splashing in.
so you’d recommend dropping the 80$ on the new negative cable? Or widening the new connector?.
edit, what about using this on my new cable?
Edit edit, link didn’t post as a link, I took a screenshot.
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 21, 2021 at 09:30 PM.
Eckler's kit has pretty cheesy lugs (actually, those are so puny, I can't even call them "lugs" ). Go to Tractor Supply or similar vendor and purchase 2 feet (you verify how much you need) or so of #2 wleding cable. 100% copper, please...no aluminum wire for this puppy. Use a propane torch to solder the lugs on...saturate the strands with solder so you get a GREAT electrical connection. Cover open metal surfaces with some Permatex Ultra Black RTV (not run-of-the-mill silicone caulk/sealant). You'll be good to go.
P.S. While you are doing this repair, check the condition of the main chassis-to-engine ground wire (right side motor mount to frame). If your battery ground cable is bad, chances are good that this ground cable is toast, also. Fix them both while the 'iron is hot'. [pun intended]
I would forget the special battery bolt and just use a small 3/8 bolt like everyone else I know would
I’m thinking about it.. I like the idea of using pure copper/welders wire - that seems really really sturdy. but I’d have to attach the connectors myself, and I have 0 knowledge/experience of that.
I would forget the special battery bolt and just use a small 3/8 bolt like everyone else I know would
so I just bolt a pack of 3/8ths for my thermostat housing, would they fit?
Honestly , I want to book it up and see if it starts.
because it was either my ground cable was the problem or it was something else. And I want to know which.
short 3/8ths coarse. 3/8th-16 or uss coarse. not sure 1/2 or 5/8 or 3/4 length best, but at 12 cents each buy a few of all 3. plus a few flat and lock washers. hit local autozone-orielly-pep boys-whatever. you may find correct battery bolt in the help or battery cable section. the battery cable you bought is up to the task of running your car for years. i was saying "here, burn 100 unnecessary bucks! on the oem correct one.
I think the battery bolts are 5/16", rather than 3/8". Also, that $16.95 battery cable is most likely aluminum. I doubt you could by a full-copper cable for less than $50, these days.
Some work on our part will save you $100+shipping.....
Clean the original threaded lug with a wire brush or a wire wheel mounted in an electric drill.
If necessary enlarge the hole in the new cable end that bolts to the battery side post.
Use plenty of grease on the lug bolt and the new cable end before bolting it to the battery.
Clean the area on the frame where the other end of the negative cable bolts to until you see shiny metal on the frame.
Apply grease to the shiny clean area on the frame, to the cable end, and to the bolt.
Bolt the new cable to the frame.
If starting problems persist you may have to remove several inches of plastic insulation from the POSITIVE battery cable to see if corrosion is developing.
If so, cut the corroded part of the Positive cable off and crimp a new end onto the cable that will fit the Positive side post on the battery.
You may have to reposition the Positive cable under the car to have enough slack to bolt the repaired Positive cable to the Positive side post.
the bolt to hold the cable connection to the frame is too big, how do I make it bigger. I’ve recently bought a thread tapper/chaser kit, is this how I’d do it?
the bolt is either M12-1.75 or NC13-1/2.
I’m so close to having this done, I don’t want to **** it up and I don’t want to use force the bolt through and give myself a headache for later.
and stupid question, the ground connection is the side that has the little yellow wire right?.?
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 23, 2021 at 06:01 PM.
the bolt to hold the cable connection to the frame is too big, how do I make it bigger. I’ve recently bought a thread tapper/chaser kit, is this how I’d do it?
the bolt is either M12-1.75 or NC13-1/2.
I’m so close to having this done, I don’t want to **** it up and I don’t want to use force the bolt through and give myself a headache for later.
and stupid question, the ground connection is the side that has the little yellow wire right?.?
"the bolt to hold the cable connection to the frame is too big, how do I make it bigger"
What is "it"?
The end of the new cable with the small pigtail wire normally bolts to the battery post...but in your case it can be bolted to the frame if necessary
Usually the threaded hole in the battery post is about three threads deep (designed to be stripped out!).
If you convert to a 3/8"-16 TPI bolt you need some flat washers and a lock washer to "shorten" the length of the bolt you have now in order to prevent stripping the battery post threads.
(We have alot of info going back and forth...maybe you can pick one problem and fix it...then move to the next problem)
Battery Cable - Negative/ground
). Go to Tractor Supply or similar vendor and purchase 2 feet (you verify how much you need) or so of #2 wleding cable. 100% copper, please...no aluminum wire for this puppy. Use a propane torch to solder the lugs on...saturate the strands with solder so you get a GREAT electrical connection. Cover open metal surfaces with some Permatex Ultra Black RTV (not run-of-the-mill silicone caulk/sealant). You'll be good to go.
