Front fender
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 633
From: perth western australia
The top " broken " line is about 4 inches into the hood surround .
Anyone parting out a 68-69 might be able to help.
I know you can buy almost the whole left or right side as repair pieces , from Ecklars ,or you used to be able .
Maybe put this request in the C3 parts wanted section.
Anyone parting out a 68-69 might be able to help.
I know you can buy almost the whole left or right side as repair pieces , from Ecklars ,or you used to be able .
Maybe put this request in the C3 parts wanted section.
Last edited by bazza77; May 22, 2021 at 07:47 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
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From: SW Florida.
https://www.topflightautomotive.com/...hoCBAIQAvD_BwE https://www.ebay.com/itm/39305006313...BoCsGcQAvD_BwE and you can find used cheaper. but you are in dennmark. shipping adds a bunch of money expecially to large parts like these. the hood surround is damaged and overpriced, but they are samples of what can be found. i would replace the whole fender as opposed to 2 repairs. 1 in front and 1 in back. damage does not show in pics. i think try harder to reshape it. or, possibly a later model nose which is less pricey could be cut up for the repair panel. in that case front and rear of fender could not be used and a patch in the middle would be a must. almost want to find a run-out given up on hulk 75 or so. would probably be cheaper than a 68-9 nose. replacing the entire nose is obviously the method with the least actual body work.
Last edited by derekderek; May 23, 2021 at 02:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,794
Likes: 430
From: Aarhus, Denmark
https://www.topflightautomotive.com/...hoCBAIQAvD_BwE https://www.ebay.com/itm/39305006313...BoCsGcQAvD_BwE and you can find used cheaper. but you are in dennmark. shipping adds a bunch of money expecially to large parts like these. the hood surround is damaged and overpriced, but they are samples of what can be found. i would replace the whole fender as opposed to 2 repairs. 1 in front and 1 in back. damage does not show in pics. i think try harder to reshape it. or, possibly a later model nose which is less pricey could be cut up for the repair panel. in that case front and rear of fender could not be used and a patch in the middle would be a must. almost want to find a run-out given up on hulk 75 or so. would probably be cheaper than a 68-9 nose. replacing the entire nose is obviously the method with the least actual body work.
Are you saying I can use all used C3 front fender, for the section I need?
I was thinking about that, using a later fender, but ofcause only for the section I need.
The repair is very bad made. But ofcause, if I can't find one, with a "ok" shipping price", then I have to re-think my plan again. And maybe to to used what I have.
Thanks,
John
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2012
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Yes you can, but you'll likely have to buy a complete fender and cut out the section you need, why not just repair what you have and save yourself the grief, it's going to be about the same amount of work.
Dave
Dave
Last edited by The Phantom; May 23, 2021 at 09:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,794
Likes: 430
From: Aarhus, Denmark
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
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From: SW Florida.
DA is random orbital sander by the way. just keep working it. somewhere in that pile of goop, the correct contour is just waiting for you to expose it to the light. you may even want to use a right angle grinder with a 50 grit sanding disc to get it back to close. fiberglass does not bodywork easy. bondo is much softer. so if you have any glass high spots, try grinding them down and redo the contour with filler. and stay away from the fender lip and point on top of the fender with power tools. and DG, I am no glass guru. you have done more and better work than me now. these are times we all miss DUB.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,794
Likes: 430
From: Aarhus, Denmark
Thanks all.
Ok, I think I will try and fix what I have, the only thing that can happen, is that I have to buy a new fender :- )
I think I will try and it it with a 100 or 80 grit, to see what happens.
Regarding bondo, I do have some bondo for fiber glass, with fibers.
I think the damage was made before 1991, at some point before 1991, it was used for racing (I think)
Ok, I think I will try and fix what I have, the only thing that can happen, is that I have to buy a new fender :- )
I think I will try and it it with a 100 or 80 grit, to see what happens.
Regarding bondo, I do have some bondo for fiber glass, with fibers.
I think the damage was made before 1991, at some point before 1991, it was used for racing (I think)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,649
Likes: 2,466
From: Indiana
Thanks all.
Ok, I think I will try and fix what I have, the only thing that can happen, is that I have to buy a new fender :- )
I think I will try and it it with a 100 or 80 grit, to see what happens.
Regarding bondo, I do have some bondo for fiber glass, with fibers.
I think the damage was made before 1991, at some point before 1991, it was used for racing (I think)
Ok, I think I will try and fix what I have, the only thing that can happen, is that I have to buy a new fender :- )
I think I will try and it it with a 100 or 80 grit, to see what happens.
Regarding bondo, I do have some bondo for fiber glass, with fibers.
I think the damage was made before 1991, at some point before 1991, it was used for racing (I think)
be careful to not use filler regardless of glass fibers or not.. to build up thick.... use filler only for thinner areas to complete including primer.. pretty sure your year is straight fiberglass repair with resin and glass..bet lots of threads on here.. and u tube
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 633
From: perth western australia
Use as much glass and resin to make the shape as possible.Too much Bog will cause shrinking effect to the finished shape. Can you get "vpa" where you are . Vette Panel Adhesive . That's the best to use to skim the surface at the finish of the repair.
