Yeah, traction always stresses parts. Probably wouldn't run slicks, but definitely would be using drag radials. It's an original big block car, so it's got capped yokes, but I've never determined what the hp limits are for the stock big block driveline.

 

1. Why fix something if it ain't broken.
2. Why spend money that you don't have to.
3. Why get even worse fuel economy.
4. Why hurt your handling by making your front end even heavier
5. Doesn't your C3 get enough attention as it is?
6. Why make your car run hotter?
7. Why make it even harder to work on?
8. Aren't you just asking for other components to break
9. No matter how fast you make it, there's some old lady in an AMG Benz that can smoke your ***.
10. Can you afford another speeding ticket?

Now that you've heard the voice of reason, enjoy your upgrade.

 

There are SOME members that I can learn from....

annnnnd some members help me find humor........

BUT.....in this case..........

 

The short answer is I don't have kids and I want a 10 second C3!

 

Great...now yer' both rubbin it in

 

Its not just the hard launches that will stress parts it's the roll on, hard acceleration that will stress or twist parts.
If you drop in a 540 without upgrading the entire drive train, you will find yourself feathering the throttle and wondering, am I going to break something?
What fun is having all that torque if you're just going to break loose the rear wheels, which is really dangerous anytime.

I wanted overdrive for freeway cruising so my TH-400 will be replaced with a TKO-600 RR, 5 speed manual that will easily handle my estimated 600 +- hp.
Most OD auto's won't take 600 +- torque/horsepower, no matter how they are built and getting the right custom built torque converter with a high stall speed can make it a chore to handle an auto on the street.
I also want a rear end gear ratio at 3.08, again for freeway cruising, so I had GTR1999, Gary Ramadei, build a Super 10, 10 bolt rear differential with all the best internal components, 31 spline, 1350 hardened outer axles, 3.5" half shafts and more.
Anything over 600 hp, Gary and others will recommend going to a 12 bolt.

Once I'm finished, I will be able to run good sticky tires for handling, traction and safety, plus I'll have the confidence that I won't break anything if or when I want to hit the go peddle.

 

[QUOTE=lowbuck72;1603563195]
1. Why fix something if it ain't broken. Because, I'm building it better and the way I want it!
2. Why spend money that you don't have to. Because I have it and I can afford it! I guess your on-screen name says it all!
3. Why get even worse fuel economy. Actually, when my project is completed, I will get better fuel mileage!
4. Why hurt your handling by making your front end even heavier Aluminum heads, intake and other light weight components reduce frontend weight so this is an un-educated comment!
5. Doesn't your C3 get enough attention as it is? Not worried about getting any attention, I don't have any issues or hang ups!
6. Why make your car run hotter? Again another un-educated comment!
7. Why make it even harder to work on? Why is a big block any harder to work on?
8. Aren't you just asking for other components to break Again another un-educated comment!
9. No matter how fast you make it, there's some old lady in an AMG Benz that can smoke your ***. I'm building a fun toy for me, I'm not building it to impress anybody else, I don't care who is faster!
10. Can you afford another speeding ticket? What? Who is talking about speeding?

Now that you've heard the voice of reason, enjoy your upgrade. Oh, we will!

 

Sounds like a great setup!

I'm keeping the TH400 since I rarely drive on the highway. It's pretty easy to detune the 540 to run at 600hp and I know that drag radials are very good up to that level. Beyond 600hp, there are probably a host of weak links that would require upgrades, but maybe my stock big block driveline parts can live at 600. My original diff could use a freshen up, so a super 10 bolt may be the ticket.

 

Sounds like you have a great plan as well.
I wanted to keep my 73 auto as well, but I do many weekend trips up to Tahoe, Donner and Truckee and will be on the highway and cruising speed for long periods.

 

I'm thinking I'll throw some aluminum heads on my 454 as well to free up some power and lighten the front end a bit. Win win!

 

I did the BB swap on my 70, you will spend a lot of money on the components needed to do the swap.
I'm glad I did it, but I went overboard up grading the drive train components etc to make sure I didn’t damage anything.
I put in a 565 ci Dart block with AFR heads and a torker intake so I could keep the original hood.
I also put a tremec 5 speed and had the differential rebuilt with HD parts and axels.
I did everything myself and I enjoyed the challenge, you probably won’t have to upgrade as much with a regular BB.
There’s no right or wrong decision it all depends on what your happy with, I still get a smile on my face being able to spin the tires any time I want to.

 

Big blocks are bad ***, and if I could afford to buy one ready to go and pay someone to keep it running for me I'd get one. Every time I'm under the hood of my car, trying to reach my hands in the tight spots, I am glad I have a small block! I am ditching the factory air and replacing it with Vintage Air for this reason. I was also going to ditch the power brakes, but they work now and I'd rather drive it than work on it. 400 H.P. is more than I need for the street anyway, and unless you build really BIG power there are plenty of stock off the showroom floor late models that will still beat you.

But big blocks are STILL bad ***!

 

You could always build a large small block.

396, 421 etc. BB power sb package. Id recommend a dart block for those, good cyl head youll love it.
Stick a 327 sticker on the air cleaner...outside headers whos gonna know?

 

My buddy is an old guy, he says no small block heads flow like big block heads. I call bullshat.

 

I have done the SB to BB thing three times and can tell you it will cost $10K. So you decide.

Oh and just to add, if you think you chase over heating problems with a SB be prepared to double down on that.

 

And when you're done with all that repaint the car because you will never match the paint on the $1500 to $2000 BB hood you will need to buy.

 

See attached excel spreadsheet and picture. Would not let me attach the excel spreadsheet, total $$ amount was $12,349.43

 

Big inch small block all the way! I have a 550HP 406 and when it dies I’ll go for a Blueprint Engines 454 with 563HP and 545TQ.

Amen Brother!

 

Did the small block to big block swap about 10 years ago. So much fun to drive. Idles at 850 rpm, pulls to 6000. Torque is absolutely flat. Also did EFI which makes a huge difference.

My motor:



My dyno chart from the EFI tuning. Ignore the 427, it is actually a 496. This is at the rear wheels through a T-56 Magnum and 3.73 Tom’s 12 bolt rear. Tuner said the STS baffles (capped) were costing me 50+ hp above 5500 rpm. I don’t need more and it is a good balance of noise vs power.

 

Let me just add this. Everyone wants a girl with big ****. You will hear all kinds of excuses about more than a mouthful is wasted, I like small ones, etc etc. In reality we all know what guys really look at and want.
BBC FTW.