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So I need some advice. Got a quote for 1250 to powder coat my 1973 frame. Wasn't real impressed with the guy, he said he wasn't busy. When I called the business he answers with " hello" . Didn't answer as most companies do, " hello this is...name of company, how can I help you"
Then proceeded to ask me how much I paid for my frame to be dipped etc. Wasn't impressed.
2nd Quote: This business is busy, showed him my frame ( pictures) He looks at it and says $350. Bring it in Monday out by Friday. This company has 45 reviews, all 5 Star.
I get price discrepancy, but wow. Can anyone share their thoughts or prices on this.. I don't look for cheap...Ever, and profit is not a dirty word with me. But I was floored with the price gap.
Quotes should include what preparation will be done and the type of powder coating.
curios, what was the quote for ‘dipping’ whatever that is.. if ecoat or other, masking of areas etc..
Last edited by interpon; Jun 16, 2021 at 08:23 PM.
I live in Western PA, and got my frame blasted and powdercoated for $600. I have continued to use him to powdercoat all the steel parts on the car, and he will be doing my 69 frame as well. Honest, fair and excellent work.
IMO, powder coating a frame is over-kill. Expensive and you need to do a lot of masking...otherwise all bolt holes will be smaller (thickness of paint all the way around). Correcting areas which should not have been painted and weren't masked is a PITA!!!
If you just wire brush all loose rust off the frame and then de-grease to get all oils, etc off the surface, Rustoleum or POR-15 would be good choices. They are made to put over surface rust.
IF you have the time...give the second company a frame extension/etc. to powdercoat. Then you will have an idea of the work quality. If the small part looks good...let them do the entire frame.
(per Forum members: repair all rust-through / cracked welds /damaged cage-nuts...before powder-coating)
IMO, powder coating a frame is over-kill. Expensive and you need to do a lot of masking...otherwise all bolt holes will be smaller (thickness of paint all the way around). Correcting areas which should not have been painted and weren't masked is a PITA!!!
If you just wire brush all loose rust off the frame and then de-grease to get all oils, etc off the surface, Rustoleum or POR-15 would be good choices. They are made to put over surface rust.
Just sayin-
These cars are about overkill- You have a bare frame- why would you not do it right?
Oh- masking- for $20 you can easily plug every thread on the frame. Most powdercoat guys heats the parts BEFORE powdercoating- burning off the oil.
Ceramic and moly resin powdercoating in impervious to brake fluid and oil. Try that with Rustoleum or Por-15. Even oil will break down Rustoleum.
IMO, powder coating a frame is over-kill. Expensive and you need to do a lot of masking...otherwise all bolt holes will be smaller (thickness of paint all the way around). Correcting areas which should not have been painted and weren't masked is a PITA!!!
If you just wire brush all loose rust off the frame and then de-grease to get all oils, etc off the surface, Rustoleum or POR-15 would be good choices. They are made to put over surface rust.
Sorry man, gotta disagree with you on this one. All my steel parts are powdercoated, and are bulletproof. It looks as good as it did on the day the powdercoating was done, easily cleaned, unaffected by road debris, solvents, brake fluid, gasoline, etc. If done right, powdercoating is better than all other finish options. Of course, obviously, some don't care about what the frame looks like.....but I do. Its all part of why my car was rebuilt way better than Chevrolet ever dreamed of........and its worth it to me.
Well if you really want to do it correctly, why wouldn't you have your frame acid dipped and zinc plated.
This would protect it on the inside as well as the outside and you can then powdercoat the outside to make it whatever colour you like!
Well if you really want to do it correctly, why wouldn't you have your frame acid dipped and zinc plated.
This would protect it on the inside as well as the outside and you can then powdercoat the outside to make it whatever colour you like!
Very true… but not black and probably a little over the top protection, and you still need to properly remove the oxides that form immediately after galvanizing for proper adhesion of powder called a duplex system.
the vast majority of underbody components springs etc..are epoxy powder coatings. Ideally a contact dip process is best for interior protection, but the exterior powder or e-coat with limited penetration.
Last edited by interpon; Jun 16, 2021 at 10:16 PM.
If you are going down the "while I'm in there" rabbit hole, don't forget to reinforce the frame corners.
Instructions are hosted at Duntov Motors' website: https://www.duntovmotors.com/
(look under Tech Tips/FAQs, Tech Tips, Corvette Section of the Chevy Power Book)
Acid dipping for the interior part of the frame would be better for the interior, as long as it was properly rinsed. I chose to use Eastwoods interior frame paint.......and made sure it was well coated. I believe the frame will outlast me,.....as well as whomever gets it next once I am gone. Also, where possible, my powdercoater sandblasts and shoots powder into as many holes as possible in the frame to coat as much as possible.
Last edited by Shovels and Vettes; Jun 17, 2021 at 06:04 AM.
Powder coating is GREAT....IF it is done correctly and IF necessary areas are masked/plugged to keep paint OFF them. I still think it is over-kill for a frame. But the choice of painting method and cost is strictly yours. You asked for input. Just accept that which you like and ignore that which you don't. There is no need to debate ANYONE'S advice.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 17, 2021 at 02:37 PM.
I had 2 frames powder coated and am about as happy as can be. The company blasted as far as I can reach on the inside and if your time is worth 10.00 per hour then do it the way you feel is best. Saw some blasted and painted frames and I know I made the best choice for how I wanted it to look. Also It can be sanded and spot painted in necessary. if a repair is needed. I mixed urathane with a effect agent to flaten the urathane and it's not detectable.
Saves time and money. Now I used a near by company because their oven was large enough for a boat trailer and their work was not that great they didn't powder coat any of the visible inner frame.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Another vote for powder coating the frame. Why not do it right the first time and probably not have to do it ever again. $1,200 does seem a bit high though, even for around here.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Jun 17, 2021 at 04:14 PM.
Here's a couple of pictures of the frame and suspension from my Factory Five Racing 33 Hotrod.
The cost for the frame was $650.00.
Super nice finish and I plan to do my 73 frame as well.
The company I used to work has a good size powder coat operation. Powder loves a sand blasted surface so it can "bite" into the surface. If they were doing a car frame they always pre-bake to get the oil out of the frame. Our shop if asked plugged the threaded holes for a small cost. There is also high temp tape available if you need to cover larger areas. The down side about powder is if you "crack" the surface water can get behind the powder start to lift. On the machines that we built we didn't use lock washers. Just flat washers and Loctite.
Another tip most powder coat shops have standard colors and it may save you a bit of money if you use their standard color.
I've been powder coating parts for years.
Companies can almost match any color paint to a powder, but the cost of some custom colors are pricey.
If you can stay with their standard colors the prices are reasonable.
You can also purchase better quality powder that adheres better and has a nicer finish.
Plus you can save money taking a bunch of parts at the same time.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Jun 17, 2021 at 06:57 PM.