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I'll post a short video of the underside of the car. The owner is going to finish the car. He does have a majority of the smog equip that came off the car as well but that may be a negotiation to get it included or installed. He installed new vacuum lines and am told headlight buckets and wiper door work. Fiber optics work too. Will see the car again this week to check on progress and try and get some pics of engine stamping/vin/ trim tag. I appreciate the feedback I'm getting also. Thanks.
That video is very nice, shows good, clean work, but INCOMPLETE work. Also some colors on some parts are not correct but that really only matters if you are getting it judged.
So, again, will the car be completed by the seller or does he expect the buyer to do it? This makes all the difference. What isn’t on the car is not very hard work to finish but can be time consuming. For 55k-ish I would think I want it ready to drive.
Definitely a nice looking 69.
Last edited by ed427vette; Jul 4, 2021 at 11:51 AM.
The smog issue will require him to replace the exhaust manifolds currently on the engine. If he doesn’t have the originals the choice would then be to buy another set and have them restored if not already restored (expensive) or to take the ones on there now and have them threaded which is not that easy if you have never done it before.
Not many options on the tank sticker but I like it.
The car will be be completely finished by the seller and my interest is not to have the car judged but to be as correct and original looking as possible within reason. Totally agree that for the $$ The car should be turn key. Need to verify drivetrain is original to the car for the $$ also correct?
absolutely. once over 15k, if they say matching numbers they damn well better BE matching numbers. i just found out the other day my 3k 75 convert IS matching numbers. made no diff to me either way...
Yes the underside looks really nice as I anticipate the rest of the car will be when completed but I don't want the emotional eye candy affect to override the practical and thoroughly checked out part which the forum members really help!
Here are the engine, tranny and rearend pics and their numbers. VIN also. Some duplicates due to the difficulty in getting access. From these I believe the engine stamp and VIN match, the tranny is a Muncie 4 spd but not an M21 and the rearend is the HD 355 as listed in the tank sticker. Block casting number is 3963512. I'd appreciate any input, thanks
The trans has the code for the M21 close ration. The letter B on the end means M21.
The engine stamp is hard to read and since it is painted you can’t see the broach marks. It should be unpainted. It’s probably original, but I like seeing the bare metal. I hope it wasn’t partially decked where they smoothed over the broach cuts. Everything else looks real good. I like this car.
Thanks for the input! I need an explanation of broach marks. Would not the 2459 stamping and also the same on the last 4 of the VIN satisfy the originality question unless it was restamped?
Thanks for the input! I need an explanation of broach marks. Would not the 2459 stamping and also the same on the last 4 of the VIN satisfy the originality question unless it was restamped?
That is correct. But, if it was restamped, they would have to remove the original broach marks along with removing the original stamping that didn’t match. Of course you could replicate the broach marks as well. Chances are it’s probably good. But if the deck was lightly shaved from a rebuild I would just want to see it. You can’t see it with paint. Some guys might try to cover a bad restamp with paint so it’s always best to see the engine with no paint on the pad. The pic above is a nice example of an original pad.
ALSO!! If you do buy the car and want to remove the paint on the pad, DO NOT SAND OFF THE PAINT!!! Or use anything abrasive like a wire wheel. Use lacquer thinner or some gentle form of chemical paint remover. Then lightly wipe it with a soft cloth. Preserve what is under the paint.
Last edited by ed427vette; Jul 6, 2021 at 07:24 PM.
Thanks for explaining/showing broach marks. The owner has been willing to go over any part of the car and helped with the photos and documentation. I'll see what I can do to get that paint removed on the pad just to make fairly certain that it's correct but the more I interact with the owner and look over the car the more confident I get that it is what it presents to be. As I've said before is the forum members advice that is helping me make this decision which i do appreciate!
Don't forget to check the carburetor it's a 7029215. They can be very pricey if the car doesn't have. Can you get a picture of the engine without the air cleaner?
That is correct. But, if it was restamped, they would have to remove the original broach marks along with removing the original stamping that didn’t match. Of course you could replicate the broach marks as well. Chances are it’s probably good. But if the deck was lightly shaved from a rebuild I would just want to see it. You can’t see it with paint. Some guys might try to cover a bad restamp with paint so it’s always best to see the engine with no paint on the pad. The pic above is a nice example of an original pad.
ALSO!! If you do buy the car and want to remove the paint on the pad, DO NOT SAND OFF THE PAINT!!! Or use anything abrasive like a wire wheel. Use lacquer thinner or some gentle form of chemical paint remover. Then lightly wipe it with a soft cloth. Preserve what is under the paint.
The car will bring north of $50k finished and dialed in. North of $60k if done correct with NCRS BG judging. It is a red red convertible with the original tank sticker a 4 speed, definitely desirable. Nice car!
That is correct. But, if it was restamped, they would have to remove the original broach marks along with removing the original stamping that didn’t match. Of course you could replicate the broach marks as well. Chances are it’s probably good. But if the deck was lightly shaved from a rebuild I would just want to see it. You can’t see it with paint. Some guys might try to cover a bad restamp with paint so it’s always best to see the engine with no paint on the pad. The pic above is a nice example of an original pad.
ALSO!! If you do buy the car and want to remove the paint on the pad, DO NOT SAND OFF THE PAINT!!! Or use anything abrasive like a wire wheel. Use lacquer thinner or some gentle form of chemical paint remover. Then lightly wipe it with a soft cloth. Preserve what is under the paint.
Completely agree, especially in the price range you are talking. Its reasonable for you (or any other optical buyer for that matter) to be able to see the pad, bare. If the seller if still in an assembly phase, it’s reasonable to ask him if he would remove the paint on the pad with lacquer thinner.
Also, you mentioned the smog equipment is something that could be negotiated. Correct smog setups for that car can approach $2k last time I looked. Get the system included in the deal.
Was going to check on progress within the next few days and I'll try and see the stamp bare. The number in question is a 2 matching the VIN's 2459. As a side note and am curious, a previous post shows what I would describe a clear stamping that is said to be original. Fake stamps clearer than that? Thanks for the input.
