fake stamps are usually clear. they aren't smart enough to make it look like it has been there rusting and being half decked off and painted in for 50 years

 

Below is a typical fake stamp. It’s a red 69 coupe that’s on eBay right now. I am familiar enough with the fonts that for me the 7 is the dead giveaway. Compare the 7’s. Pad is smooth. Some restamps are VERY GOOD. I am no expert and most guys will say they aren’t either but I can pick out some of the obvious ones. Thats where the broachmarks can make a difference. If you really have to know if your block is original, there is a process that CCAS (Classic Car Affirmation Services) uses to verify the broach marks like you would ballistics. They can date the block by the cuts on the pad. Good restampers will have the block cut the same as the original but it will not match the cuts from blocks back 50 years ago because the blade they used would have different wear patterns. Of course the evaluation is not cheap. But that is also why I would want to see the pad. Even if it has a good looking stamp, if the block was slightly milled it could wreck the original broach marks. And that is why it’s very important to NOT remove the paint with anything abrasive that would wear down the original marks.

Also, many will say the stamp needs to match the transmission stamp. This is true. But, it both are restamped at the same time then both fakes will match….The more you look at original stamps, the more you get familiar with them. The best place to see real stamps are places like this forum. Same with paperwork.

 

Good information. I'll be digging a little deeper to verify within reason of the block stamp. Remove paint carefully and take a pic. I can see where a trained eye and having looked at a lot of legit and fake stampings is important as I have not and that 7 didn't stand out to me.

 

If you can post a clean pic of the pad that would help a lot. I have a pretty big engine stamp pad library and can compare LM code cars around your build date.

 

Here are pics of the stamp and carb

 

IMHO the trim tag is typical factory production. As for the engine stamp, the picture is hard to read all the vin derivative numbers. If you put a dab of motor oil on a rag and wipe the front engine pad it will help with the glare from the camera.

 

The pad stamp looks good. The 4 is very correct, that’s usually another number they don’t stamp correctly. That’s a nice pad. Nice broach marks. If it was intentionally faked they would have NEVER painted over it as they would have wanted you to see the nice broach marks.

The carb isn’t original but honestly that’s fine because very few cars out there have an original. Unless you want to get the car judged it’s not a big deal. The carb is a correct one but I can tell it’s not a 7029215.

This is a very nice car.

 

I agree with Ed, the engine stamping is typical factory production. If you enhance the pic you can see the numbers better as well as the consistency in the broach marks. Like mentioned before, red/red big block convertible with the original trim tag, motor and a 4 speed is a highly desirable car.

 

Not interested in car being judged just want the car to be as original as possible. The owner/ restorer is doing a meticulous job of putting the car back together and when it's done I believe the car will look and drive beautifully. Based on a number of factors incl your input on verifying numbers I'm confident the car is as it presents and as it gets closer to completion and after driving it it'll come down to my initial inquiry. What's a reasonable price to pay?

 

That’s a tough question to answer. It’s really a matter of what it’s worth to each individual. If I was buying it I would expect to pay $50k but that must include whatever smog parts he has. No smog parts, maybe high 40’s. Someone might pay more. Maybe. What it does have, is nice. What it doesn’t have is any real options. It’s a 427 4sp. But it’s the base 390hp of which they made 10500 cars. Not rare. But, it’s red/red. That’s great. It’s got a great tank sheet, original drive train, will probably look incredible when done. It’s a roadster, big plus.

If a buyer has to have a red/red then he might pay over 50k. But I personally wouldn’t. I know where I can find a original L71 4 speed for another 15k. If I’m going to spend 50 I may as well spend the 65 and get the 435hp car. However, I have never bought a Vette as an investment. I bought what I liked and if I could afford it. Didn’t care (and still don’t) about price. For example, I paid 40k for a 69 427 4sp that didn’t run, just because it had factory installed side pipes, original drivetrain plus other rare parts, unmodified, unrestored, off the road since 1978, was a roadster and was LM blue with low ownership and solid paperwork. Way more then what it was probably worth. But didn’t care. Never will.

That being said. This 69 is a good one. This one checks many of the right boxes for me. Unless there is another to compare to you will have to decide what you want to pay. But it’s better knowing you are not getting ripped off getting a restamped fake car. For example, whoever buys that red one on eBay that I posted the pad stamp from will be getting taken bad. Even if you pay a little more on this one, I don’t think you will get too hurt on it.

 

If the car was completely finished and at a national classic car dealer it would sell around $60k based on what I have seen. From a private party I would expect to pay $48-$55k. Ed and I track a lot of these cars so we have some good cars to compare this one to. The car has the right options, a desirable color combo and the right paperwork.

 

I'm not going to quibble or dicker myself out of a deal on this one. I'm now more confident on the numbers which was extremely important to me and seeing how the car is being put back together and explained and shown to me by the owner is impressive. It's the opposite of looking at a finished car with some guy giving me a sales pitch making claims that may or may not be accurate. Asking $55k. Would like to be in the low 50's and see where we're at with the smog equipment thrown in. I'm not sure that the equipment came with the car but he did say he has most of the pieces that go on it. Will clarify that. Again, thanks for the expert advice and opinions which have helped considerably!

 

Did the L36 come with an aluminum winters intake or a cast iron intake? Getting conflicting info on this. Also on the tank sticker that shows 9/00/00 in the exp date of delivery column what do the zeros represent? Thanks.

 

Aluminum intake part number 3947801. The zeros represent a placeholder for month and day on the corvette order copy.

 

Thanks for the clarification!