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I was changing out the switch and saw a small spark. Sure enough the dimmer lights to the instrument light now doesn’t work. Doesn’t appear to be a blown fuse. Any thoughts on what it might be? I’m putting the new switch in this week. I’m hopping it’s just the switch itself?
Drove all the way to ecklers to curbside pick up the new switch they told me over the phone was in stock. Guess what? You guessed it, not in stock. Was able to at least get the bezel and now I’m seeing these switches are on back order. The only one I could find is almost $50 and have to wait a week to get it.
Last edited by Bluesting70; Jul 13, 2021 at 10:51 AM.
Using metal tools around electrical items with the battery still connected is MORE than just lazy....it's downright . A shorted power wire can develop hundreds of amps in a split second. I knew someone who wore his wedding band while working under the dash...battery NOT disconnected. His ring caused a short between power and ground. It instantly got the ring so hot it burned right down to the bone!!!
You were just lucky that more damage wasn't done. Install a battery disconnect....that makes it easy to cut the power.
Using metal tools around electrical items with the battery still connected is MORE than just lazy....it's downright . A shorted power wire can develop hundreds of amps in a split second. I knew someone who wore his wedding band while working under the dash...battery NOT disconnected. His ring caused a short between power and ground. It instantly got the ring so hot it burned right down to the bone!!!
You were just lucky that more damage wasn't done. Install a battery disconnect....that makes it easy to cut the power.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
check the ground strap from the switch bezel to the frame mount as well. You could have burned that through or just broke it. You can test the switch by running a ground from the switch to the frame. Its what controls the "full on" when at the locks but not dimming if IRC. Its a thing steel strap that has some angles bent into it and it sandwiches between the switch and bezel and screws to the metal frame. Hve you tried Lectric Limited?
all 70 stuff https://www.lectriclimited.com/vehic...ke/21/model/65
check the ground strap from the switch bezel to the frame mount as well. You could have burned that through or just broke it. You can test the switch by running a ground from the switch to the frame. Its what controls the "full on" when at the locks but not dimming if IRC. Its a thing steel strap that has some angles bent into it and it sandwiches between the switch and bezel and screws to the metal frame. Hve you tried Lectric Limited?
all 70 stuff https://www.lectriclimited.com/vehic...ke/21/model/65
On all my cars, I have added the large “****” twist off Battery Disconnect, so that it’s really easy to kill the power. Let’s face it, these cars are old, and at least in my case, something is going to stop working. Yesterday I got caught in a light rain shower. The good news my wipers worked great, Bad news the windshield washer pump would not disengage. Another problem to solve, I love this hobby, you are never bored!
On all my cars, I have added the large “****” twist off Battery Disconnect, so that it’s really easy to kill the power. Let’s face it, these cars are old, and at least in my case, something is going to stop working. Yesterday I got caught in a light rain shower. The good news my wipers worked great, Bad news the windshield washer pump would not disengage. Another problem to solve, I love this hobby, you are never bored!
Here’s your laugh for the day. I studied up for too long on this. Learned about the ground strap. Replaced the switch after paying too much and being let down by a vendor. Still not cluster lights. Read that if taillights fuse is broken then instrument won’t get power. Then pumped the brakes-brake lights work. Mind you-I didn’t check if that was the same as the tail lights. Did that step which is the easiest step early on-days ago. Took dash apart again and ran a manual ground to the switch. No lights. Put everything back together still no cluster lights. Decided to look at fuses again because the first time the taillights fuse “looked” ok and the brake lights worked. Pulled the switch to turn on tail lights. NO tail lights. Pulled the taillights fuse and replaced it-NOW cluster lights work! All along was just the fuse that I checked initially days ago and appeared ok. Learned lesson the difference between tail lights and brake lights. What a dummy. Pretty sure I wasted time and effort in the switch replacement.
Last edited by Bluesting70; Jul 19, 2021 at 06:35 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
THat reminds me of an issue I had driving my car home one night and the tail lights went out along woth the dash lights....My fuse was good but the back of the fuse panel had burned through.....Thanks for the reminder...Ive got to remember that for the next guy