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Okay so driving home from Carlisle
I was running hot every time I got over 2500 rpm. If I keep it below that temp would climb but not in the red. Stopped at one of the rest areas to let it cool down. Well 5 miles from my exit the water pump blew up. Ball bearings all over my engine compartment.
no big deal. Replaced the water pump, fan clutch and belts. Took it for a drive and temp climbed again at highway, over 55 mph or 2500 rpm. Cool on the country roads but hot at high speeds. After reading a ton of forum posts I decided to replace the thermostat, radiator cap and both upper and lower radiator hoses as well as flush the system.
took her for a spin. Same damn thing. I’m at a lost. I even sprayed out the radiator, which is only 4 years old.
im at a loss. Any ideas?
Last edited by Nucedog01; Sep 25, 2021 at 04:51 PM.
the old hose had a spring in it. It’s broken in about three pcs. The one I got from rock auto did it have spring in it. I kept the three pieces of spring from the original hose. Should I try to install that in the new one???
the old hose had a spring in it. It’s broken in about three pcs. The one I got from rock auto did it have spring in it. I kept the three pieces of spring from the original hose. Should I try to install that in the new one???
If the lower radiator hose collapsed, that probably did your water pump no favors.
I'd look at timing, too, and get your cap tested, but lower spring is most likely.
Sometimes after replacing things the heater core and hoses will hold lots of air even if its not being used. Remove the radiator cap (Cold Engine)/ and start the car/sqeeze the two heater core hoses to see if any air bubbles show up.
Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses.
BE CAREFUL that the radiator doesnt spew out boiling coolant as the engine warms up. Add water to the radiator as needed.....this process could take 15-20 minutes to purge trapped air.
I actually inserted a running hose into the radiator to prevent the radiator from belching boiling coolant.
Broken spring wasn't doing its job in that lower hose. The hose collapsed at higher RPM because of higher negative (suction) pressures at the pump inlet. Closed off hose---greatly reduced coolant flow to the radiator. Classic overheating example. You MUST put a proper spring in the 'new' lower hose or you will get the same results. In fact, without any spring, the problem will be worse.
the old hose had a spring in it. It’s broken in about three pcs. The one I got from rock auto did it have spring in it. I kept the three pieces of spring from the original hose. Should I try to install that in the new one???
I did a real brief search for the spring. Not exactly on the shelf of every automotive store.
However, EBay had one. Says all GM 1955-1988 for $25. Its way too long but that's an easy fix. My concern would be if a universal spring would fit inside your lower Rad hose. So the diameter issue would have to be asked to the seller.
Do not use one of those springs that fits on the outside of the Rad hose. Not the same concept.
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Originally Posted by Nucedog01
yes spoiler extension
the old hose had a spring in it. It’s broken in about three pcs. The one I got from rock auto did it have spring in it. I kept the three pieces of spring from the original hose. Should I try to install that in the new one???
this statement is kind of garbled. If you ran the hose without the spring, that is the reasn why you are overheating. Or atleast one of them. The fan has nothing to do with cooling your car on the highway. ITs all air flow through the radiator and motor. If your hose is collapsed from the lack of sring, then there is no water in it and thats why you blew up the last pump. the water helps lubricate and cool it. Also if you have been draining everything form the radiator you should drain it from the 2 drain plugs at the bottom of your motor and see if it comes out all rusty and cruddy. If so you should use a radiator flush to flush out the engine
if a spring is so important, why don’t they come in the hose already???? I’m not questioning anyone expertise, just questioning in general!
I will find one and throw it in.
thanks for all your replies.
Because most of the time you don't need a new one? The one in my 80 is 41 years old, and still in great shape. Perhaps your car was run with an incorrect antifreeze solution (for example, straight tap water), and the spring corroded and broke. All the more reason to drain the coolant from the block, and flush the radiator. Here's my 80 with a block drain open. I had to poke a screwdriver in the hole to knock the sludge out of the way and start the flow.
Why don't the new hoses come with a new spring?
Its one of the great mysteries of C3s:
Why is the heater core control vacuum?
Why is the PS cap so hard to remove?
Why does the clock only work twice a day?
Why does the hood release cable snap at the worst time?
Among others . . .
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 26, 2021 at 04:37 PM.
I had that overheating problem on my '66 vette some years ago...ffind out I replaced the clutch fan assembly and problem was solved no more overheating.
Hey Nucedog, you've received some great advise above. Spring for sure. Making certain the block and radiator are flushed for sure. I would add this: can you check the fan clutch (I know you replaced it) to see if it has the right resistance when it's cold/hot? Do you have the correct shroud in place? Do you have all the shroud seals in place (this is really important. All the air possible needs to be 'pulled' through the radiator. If you're missing seals, the air will be like water - it will go around the easiest way possible, like around your radiator and not through it). If you do the items noted from all the helpful forum members, and this stuff, you'll solve or find the issue. Let us know. Best, Paul