Other than the birdcage, trailing arm mounts and frame is there anything particular to the 1978 model that needs increased scrutiny?

 

Every thing from front to back and of course the underside!!
I know because I have a 78 and when I bought it 11 yrs ago when I knew nothing about Vette's..But OMG did I learn from that point on with respect to financial investments etc!!!
The old saying is: Let the buyer beware

JJ78

 

What is your plans for the car ?

Factory Original or are you going to want a much faster version of the original ?

My order of things to check.
1. Frame
2. Body Panels
3. Suspension / Brakes
4. Electrical
5 Drive line engine / trans
6. Interior

expect to repair something in each category. Higher category problems made me less interested in the car.

When I went shopping for a 78 plan was to build a track car. So only 1 & 2 where important.

 

I’d buy the most restored one in budget. The cost of parts adds up quick!

 

Check that the rear leaf spring mounting tabs on the cast iron differential cover are not cracked. This is a not uncommon problem.

 

Good advice.

 

Nothing really different then checking out any C3. You do want to take a look at the engine stamp pad. L48s can be dressed up to look like an L82 . 35 difference in HP.
If it has a 3.70 rear then expect @3200 rpms at 70mph.
Here is a pdf file on the specifications of a 1978. Loads of information about this year: https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...t-Corvette.pdf

 

Thanks for all the info everyone.... especially the specs manual... awesome!!!

 

1978 was a very interesting year. Most people simply see the change to the rear window and the dash. But 1978 was the first year for many changes. Because it was a transition year for many changes some didn't work so often parts were changed during the 1978 model year as well. If you are looking at a particular car for sale is is an early-1978 or late-1978? There isn't a serial number breakdown of early vs late but many changes/improvements happened around the time the Pace Cars came out (coincidentally but not tied specifically to the Pace Car model) which was around March or April of 1978 if I recall correctly.

Why do I mention this? Well, for example, if you are looking at a 1978 Corvette and the windshield wipers don't work you might think that it is no big deal you can just check the connections for corrosion or perhaps replace the wiper motor. Quick and inexpensive to fix, right? Maybe. But GM introduced the intermittent (delay/pulse) wiper system in 1978 but it wasn't ready at the beginning of the model year so they installed the 2-speed wipers. When the intermittent wipers rolled out they had problems. There is a module that fails and a different switch. That type of wiper is more involved to troubleshoot and more costly to repair so when buying a 1978 you might want to make sure of the wiper type and that it works correctly or discount the price appropriately is it is broken.

Another example of something to look for when buying a 1978 is that the turn signal switch and headlight dimmer switch work as well as the lever moving nicely because there were different switch pivots used during the 1978 model year.

I don't have the time to write more right now but this is just to point out that because it was the first year for a lot of changes there are subtle things to check for. The 1978 cars are now one of my favorites because of the features they have and the interesting little changes.

 

Rear wheel bearings, brakes, drive and half shafts......a turd Vette almost never has these done. You can spot them by the sag in the rear......pretty much means nobody has taken care of anything on the suspension.
Just pay attention to cars that do not look right.......sit all wrong, or go down the road squirrley......
And yes....as mentioned, buy the absolute nicest car you can on your budget......I like them with bad engines......engine and trans is cheap next to the nickle and dime experience of bad paint and interior.....inoperable gauges.....electrical issues....etc.

Jebby

 

Find one with with good paint. A 78 is not worth spending $10,000 for a new paint job.

 

Y'all are awesome!

 

At what mileage are rear bearings, bushings and halfshafts usually due for repairs/replacement?

 

Hard to put a ballpark mileage#. Age has lots to do with it
All you can do is get it on a lift and have someone who knows these give it a good looking over. Once the money is handed over if theres a bad issue its all yours