Replacing a JY8 Aluminum Wheel
10-22-2021, 07:35 PM
#1
Replacing a YJ8 option Aluminum Wheel
I replaced the tires on my 73 coupe about 2 months ago. I'm very happy with the BFG Radial T/As. I noticed one of my tires kept leaking down after the new tires were put on. I took it back to Discount Tire. They took the wheel off and showed me in the "dunk tank" where the tiny bubbles were coming from the back side of the wheel near where it flares out to the flat area. There were two separate leak areas. Of course they told me there was nothing they could do. It's odd (at least to me) that there was no "leak down" with the previous tires. Any ideas why the leaks started happening after the new tires were mounted?
My second question is: If I have to replace one of my YJ8s how do I get the best match to the other 3. My car is very nice but not a show car and definitely not headed to NCRS judging. I just want all 4 wheels to match. I understand there are slightly different appearances with different manufactures. Also, is it worth the risk to buy a used YJ8 on Ebay, etc.? (is there a chance it could be warped or also have a leak issue?).
Any advice is appreciated.
Wes
My second question is: If I have to replace one of my YJ8s how do I get the best match to the other 3. My car is very nice but not a show car and definitely not headed to NCRS judging. I just want all 4 wheels to match. I understand there are slightly different appearances with different manufactures. Also, is it worth the risk to buy a used YJ8 on Ebay, etc.? (is there a chance it could be warped or also have a leak issue?).
Any advice is appreciated.
Wes
Last edited by Jwtvette; 10-22-2021 at 08:14 PM. Reason: wrong option code
10-22-2021, 08:32 PM
#2
if discount tire sold you the tires and mounted them bring the tire back to them and ask them to unmount it.Mark the 2 leaks and bring your wheel to a welding shop,they'll be able to "v" out the cracks and drill little holes at the ends of the cracks to make sure that is where the cracks end.they can weld it up and you'll be able to sand and polish the welds so they not only look good but won't need any balancing. Bring the wheel and tire back to discount tire and ask them to remount the tire and balance the assembly. If the wheel didn't leak before they probably cranked it way to tight on the tire machine.
10-23-2021, 09:01 AM
#3
Team Owner
Cast aluminum parts can have porosity in them due to the gases produced in the casting process. This was a real problem when those wheels were first produced. The factory added a sealant 'impregnation' process on 100% of the wheels when new.
The solution is to 'seal' the leak paths on the inside of the wheel. Whether that is done by [permanently] welding to seal off leakage, or whether you choose to put some flexible sealant over the area on the inside of the wheel is a choice you can make. There is NO need to replace the wheel, as the replacement you purchase is prone to the same type of leakage.
Whenever you change tires, you should have the shop 'dunk-test' each wheel to look for air bubbles and mark the exact location so you can repair any leakers. Otherwise, you will have a slow leak and a tire which will require regular checking and resetting the air pressure.
The solution is to 'seal' the leak paths on the inside of the wheel. Whether that is done by [permanently] welding to seal off leakage, or whether you choose to put some flexible sealant over the area on the inside of the wheel is a choice you can make. There is NO need to replace the wheel, as the replacement you purchase is prone to the same type of leakage.
Whenever you change tires, you should have the shop 'dunk-test' each wheel to look for air bubbles and mark the exact location so you can repair any leakers. Otherwise, you will have a slow leak and a tire which will require regular checking and resetting the air pressure.
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Pegan2261 (10-24-2021)
10-23-2021, 09:10 AM
#4
Team Owner
Is this a job for Flex-Steel or some similar type product?
10-24-2021, 09:40 AM
#6
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Put a tube on the leaking wheel.
10-24-2021, 10:13 AM
#7
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If you saw it leaking on the rim then that's where it's leaking, as to why now? Possible the stress of mounting and un-mounting the tires they just did was enough to "open it up"
(If it's all the way around or on a large part of the rim I'd be wondering about the safety as well)
There's a lot of YJ8 rims out there, you should be able to find a matching style one easily and replace the one you're having issues with.
Alternately, dismount the tire, clean the rim and give it a couple of coats of spray (clear) masking or staying around from the bead area
The "GM Fix" for the C4 rims that were porous was to find the area, roughen then inside surface up and give a thick coat of adhesive/sealant
M
(If it's all the way around or on a large part of the rim I'd be wondering about the safety as well)
There's a lot of YJ8 rims out there, you should be able to find a matching style one easily and replace the one you're having issues with.
Alternately, dismount the tire, clean the rim and give it a couple of coats of spray (clear) masking or staying around from the bead area
The "GM Fix" for the C4 rims that were porous was to find the area, roughen then inside surface up and give a thick coat of adhesive/sealant
M
10-25-2021, 12:40 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
I agree
Cast aluminum parts can have porosity in them due to the gases produced in the casting process. This was a real problem when those wheels were first produced. The factory added a sealant 'impregnation' process on 100% of the wheels when new.
The solution is to 'seal' the leak paths on the inside of the wheel. Whether that is done by [permanently] welding to seal off leakage, or whether you choose to put some flexible sealant over the area on the inside of the wheel is a choice you can make. There is NO need to replace the wheel, as the replacement you purchase is prone to the same type of leakage.
Whenever you change tires, you should have the shop 'dunk-test' each wheel to look for air bubbles and mark the exact location so you can repair any leakers. Otherwise, you will have a slow leak and a tire which will require regular checking and resetting the air pressure.
The solution is to 'seal' the leak paths on the inside of the wheel. Whether that is done by [permanently] welding to seal off leakage, or whether you choose to put some flexible sealant over the area on the inside of the wheel is a choice you can make. There is NO need to replace the wheel, as the replacement you purchase is prone to the same type of leakage.
Whenever you change tires, you should have the shop 'dunk-test' each wheel to look for air bubbles and mark the exact location so you can repair any leakers. Otherwise, you will have a slow leak and a tire which will require regular checking and resetting the air pressure.
Re-tank the wheel at 40 psi and be patient!
good luck!
Unkahal
10-25-2021, 01:33 PM
#9
Team Owner
...or you can shoot or apply Flex Seal (or similar product) on the inside to seal off the porous area. ALL YJ8 wheels have the potential for this issue. Swapping to another YJ8 wheel is not guarantee that it is a 'better' wheel with regard to porosity. Keep what you have. Find the leak and seal it off.
10-26-2021, 09:42 AM
#11
Team Owner
