When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi all,
My first query:
Strongly considering buying this 1970 "L46". It's on the other side of the (ok, small) country.
Seller admits that it's not a numbers matching car, but what the heck kind of engine code is "A18"???? I can't find it anywhere on the 'net. Wouldn't've believed it if he hadn't sent a photo (see attached).
It's an otherwise very rust-free '70, seemingly desirable 'vette, so I am quite keen to buy it (if he will come down for €40k quite a bit!).
Thanks for any explanation that you might offer.
Steve, in the NLs
"...a rebuilder's stamp..."
How does that work - do some rebuilders grind off the original and then put their own stamp on it?
Seriously, I really have no idea.
Steve
Sorry, but I have no idea about the 8" damper and camels humps you mention.
The seller is not generous with information and the car is too far away for me to check out without first knowing that it might be worth it.
Thanks,
Steve, in the NLs
Basically when you rebuild an engine, they remove the heads and 'deck the block'...meaning they machine all the way across the head mounting plane...which continues onto the stamping pad area...where they, ignorantly or on purpose removed the numbers by machining them off to true up the block.
'Camels humps' is an expression...it refers to the casting marks on the ends of the heads, plainly visible, which looks like two camels humps. This signifys the 2.02 and 1.60 valve sizes showing high performance (big valve) heads which were part of the L-46 specification.
The Harmonic damper is the round thing on the end of the crank shaft behind the radiator. Low power engines generally have 6.5" and the L-46 should be 8" in diameter.
L-46 has 4 bolt main 'saddles' which can't be seen easily.
I'm sure one of our forum members can post up the picture of the camels humps... all indications of a true L-46 350hp/ 350Cu.in, engine (which is highly desirable.)
Your looking at a car that is over 50 years old. the owner admits it is not the original engine.
So if it's priced accordingly. And the car checks out otherwise and runs well. Who cares what someone put on the stamp pad.
I wouldn't be asking what it is if it were a readily-recognizable Corvette code... ;-)
But, indeed, I wonder if it is a real Corvette block or a truck block or a Pontiac/Buick/whatever block.
The pictures provided look like an LT-1 from above, but that's all cosmetic.
Thanks,
Steve
At the end of the day, A Chevy block is a Chevy block.
What it came in originally makes little difference.
How it was rebuilt makes a huge difference.
is it a 4 bolt main block? What crank and rods are in it?
Pistons? But the block is just that, a block. they are all the same. Truck, Impala, Camaro. Whatever.
Indeed, "...A Chevy block is a Chevy block...", but I want to know if they had the forged crank, high compression pistons, etc of an L46 to start with or did they just slap in a truck or boat or whatever-was-cheapest engine. I was hoping this weird "A18" code meant something so that I can have an idea of what engine I might be buying.
The (asking) price is too high (€40k) to be stuck with a boring motor, even though the rest of the car appears to be in great shape.
Thanks,
Steve, in the NLs
While the car looks great, on the surface, if I had to prioritize my concerns, I'd be far more concerned about the condition of the "birdcage" (the steel structure that includes the windshield frame, as well as the steel that surrounds the cockpit), than I would be about the engine block. A bad birdcage is somewhat impossible to repair/replace, at least economically, yet it's a common problem with Corvettes of this era. In other words, a non numbers matching engine is a very minor hiccup, compared to a bad birdcage.
While the car looks great, on the surface, if I had to prioritize my concerns, I'd be far more concerned about the condition of the "birdcage" (the steel structure that includes the windshield frame, as well as the steel that surrounds the cockpit), than I would be about the engine block. A bad birdcage is somewhat impossible to repair/replace, at least economically, yet it's a common problem with Corvettes of this era. In other words, a non numbers matching engine is a very minor hiccup, compared to a bad birdcage.
Thanks. Excellent advice...as I've read in many places. So, yeah, I agree completely and told the seller that the birdcage was my first priority. He sorta' obliged by making many photos showing how wonderfully rust-free the whole underside of the car is. Rust-wise, the underside of the car is excellent. From the other pix he sent, I think I see a hint of rust on the windshield frame and I would want to check behind the kickpanels, etc. before starting the bartering process.
Checking the birdcage is easier said than done, but I've been scouring the 'net to find out how.
But he's asking a lot of money, in my opinion, so I want to also know that the power plant is worth having before I travel across the (small) country to potentially buy the car. And, honestly, I don't require "numbers matching", I just want to know that I wouldn't be bringing home an expensive sports car with a low-performance truck or boat engine.
Thanks, again,
Steve, in the NLs
Thanks. Excellent advice...as I've read in many places. So, yeah, I agree completely and told the seller that the birdcage was my first priority. He sorta' obliged by making many photos showing how wonderfully rust-free the whole underside of the car is. Rust-wise, the underside of the car is excellent. From the other pix he sent, I think I see a hint of rust on the windshield frame and I would want to check behind the kickpanels, etc. before starting the bartering process.
Checking the birdcage is easier said than done, but I've been scouring the 'net to find out how. But he's asking a lot of money, in my opinion, so I want to also know that the power plant is worth having before I travel across the (small) country to potentially buy the car. And, honestly, I don't require "numbers matching", I just want to know that I wouldn't be bringing home an expensive sports car with a low-performance truck or boat engine.
Thanks, again,
Steve, in the NLs
I fully understand. Keep in mind, as has been mentioned, that the "small" Chevrolet V-8 engine block is somewhat "universal", in that it was used in MANY applications. The only major differences in the block itself, is whether it's a "4 bolt main bearing cap", HP block, or a regular performance, "2 bolt main bearing cap" block. Beyond that, the "high performance" part is factored in by the choice of crankshafts, camshafts, cylinder heads, and pistons. Unfortunately, not all of these components can be seen, just by looking at the outside of the engine.....
Your looking at a car that is over 50 years old. the owner admits it is not the original engine.
So if it's priced accordingly. And the car checks out otherwise and runs well. Who cares what someone put on the stamp pad.
I tend to disagree a bit with you 4-vettes. The CLAIM is its an L-46, this goes to value and in the end 'fun factor' and value down the road. True, if the engine is an L-46 AND the stamp pad has been wiped out and the other indicators SHOW that it's an L-46 then the 'provenance; can be re-assembled. The stamp pad becomes secondary.
If it is just a 'cooking SBC.' then the price should HEAVILY reflect that.
Basically when you rebuild an engine, they remove the heads and 'deck the block'...meaning they machine all the way across the head mounting plane...which continues onto the stamping pad area...where they, ignorantly or on purpose removed the numbers by machining them off to true up the block.
'Camels humps' is an expression...it refers to the casting marks on the ends of the heads, plainly visible, which looks like two camels humps. This signifys the 2.02 and 1.60 valve sizes showing high performance (big valve) heads which were part of the L-46 specification.
The Harmonic damper is the round thing on the end of the crank shaft behind the radiator. Low power engines generally have 6.5" and the L-46 should be 8" in diameter.
L-46 has 4 bolt main 'saddles' which can't be seen easily.
I'm sure one of our forum members can post up the picture of the camels humps... all indications of a true L-46 350hp/ 350Cu.in, engine (which is highly desirable.)
Unkahal
1970 350s use cylinder head 3927186, for 350hp and 300hp. 300hp motor used 1.94 intake valve, so theres no indication of valve size form the camel humps.
it MAYBE WAS an L46. now it could be a 283-400. check the block casting number and date codes on back of block. check head casting numbers under valve cover. get a borescope and pull a plug and drain the oil. stick borescope in bottom to check for forged crand and 4 bolt mains. through plug hole to see whether dome-flat or dished pistons. and STILL you won't know everything about this engine. but 40k euros? i think a little high with correct orig engine. frame and underside looks pretty good. here is a more in-depth write-up on what to look for. roll down to post 107. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orvette-6.html
Thanks. Excellent advice...as I've read in many places. So, yeah, I agree completely and told the seller that the birdcage was my first priority. He sorta' obliged by making many photos showing how wonderfully rust-free the whole underside of the car is. Rust-wise, the underside of the car is excellent. From the other pix he sent, I think I see a hint of rust on the windshield frame and I would want to check behind the kickpanels, etc. before starting the bartering process.
Checking the birdcage is easier said than done, but I've been scouring the 'net to find out how.
Steve, in the NLs
If the seller thinks that underside pics will satisfy you on condition of the birdcage be very careful dealing with him . I see a car that's had multiple oil leaks for a long time , missing or moved elsewhere wiper door actuator relay , Also see that the fan shroud has been smashed ! just to start with . He couldn't be bothered fixing it or at least cleaning it to sell , but now he wants to sell it , its worth a fortune !
It does not have L-46 heads for sure. That engine is just an engine. That is not an L-46 so it is not worth L-46 money. Ignore the engine and look behind the kick panels for corrosion. Price accordingly.
My two cents. I don’t know where you are but around here that seems overpriced for a non original motor. Although prices are rising as we speak.
Also for that kind of money and the distance you need to travel the seller should be taking pictures of everything you want to see before hand ( within reason).
My rule of thumb was if I ask for picture and information and the seller is not forth coming I am out. Now maybe easy to say that here in the US due to availability that might not be the case by you but I am not sure it changes anything!!
I was burned too many times by ignorant or deceptive sellers wasting my time. Do you miss out on some cars maybe, but not worth the travel time to me. If it’s close different story.
Strange engine code in 1970 NOM L46
