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So I need some assistance and here are my current roadblocks.
I purchased an all original 1982 Corvette back in late November 2021, runs well though needs some tuning.
The battery recently died and I can not get it to start with my 750 Amp jump starter.
I live in San Diego, CA and it is near impossible to find anyone who will Smog Test a classic.
I need a reputable local mechanic to do a full inspection and Smog Test somewhere within a reasonable distance.
If anyone can help, I'd be extremely grateful. Any and all advice, insight and assistance is appreciated.
Flex
When you say you can’t get it to start does it turn over normal like or is it super slow?
If it’s super slow I would start by getting the car as high as you can on jackstands and start inspecting each and every ground cable on the car. Any green puss on a cable it needs to be replaced. Any place where a cable bolts/connects to needs to be clean and shiny. Once you’ve checked the grounds, move onto the positive battery cable that runs through the transmission tunnel. Any nicks, burned areas, connectors full of puss the entire cable needs replaced. I’m assuming the car has lived in San Diego it’s whole life. If so the possibility of corroded wiring/terminals is a possibility.
If it’s turning over fine check and make sure you have spark. I’m also assuming this is a crossfire car with the original crossfire injection. If you have spark then you’ll need to check the crossfire injection, and this is where I run out of ideas.
Not from the area, but a place that jumped to mind was top flight. I have no idea if they are any good but I’ve heard of them and I’m a east coast guy. So I hope some of the others will chime in.
Thanks for your post, it always turned over normal until now. Now I get no response at all on the dash unless I hook up my jump starter. With the jump starter attached I get gauges, power windows, radio etc., though the engine will not start. I've already inspected the cables attached to the battery and they're in near perfect condition, though I've yet to check the ground cables. I definitely need to get this vehicle up on a lift or on jack stands as you mentioned. The car actually just arrived two months ago in November from Pennsylvania. Had I known the vehicle would be so difficult to get Smog tested here I would have just bought a 75 or older to avoid this entirely.
I'll definitely start inspecting the ground cables once I get the car lifted high enough to inspect and I'll try Top Flight.
Thanks again for your response, I appreciate you taking the time to help.
Know what you mean with older vehicles. Not all smog places can check older vehicles that they can’t just plug into. I once had to take my timing light, tach/dwell meter and vacuum gauge and hook it up to our old truck to show the guy it was in specs. Not exactly near you but there is a place in the High Desert that does older vehicles. It’s test only, he doesn’t work on them, but there is a shop close by.
Do yourself a favor. Make sure it will pass the visual, that your timing and idle are within spec and check your vacuum lines. A vacuum leak can definitely cause a fail.
It has been quite the struggle, though I'm optimistic. I've inspected all my gauges and the vacuum lines are working properly. Interesting that you mention the High Desert because I was considering taking the vehicle to Nevada and getting everything taken care of there. My timing definitely needs tuning and the vehicle idles rough below 1000rpm though I will have all of that taken care of once I can get this old beast started again.
I just had to replace a 2016 battery in my 1991 yesterday. An interior light drained it pretty quick then it failed a load test after charging. I would start by load testing that battery - it is easy and free at a local auto parts store. You just need to charge it first. I like to check easy and inexpensive first.
Oh - your car looks amazing. Hope you get it going soon.
get that battery load tested. it's probably shot. that clicking indicates that it is not providing the necessary power. It's way old. When you get the new battery, start the car, and take a voltage reading at the terminals at idle. If your alternator is not working adequately it will kill your new battery.
Check your battery terminals (I know they are side mounted, but just to ensure they're not corroded badly under there), clean the contact surfaces as best possible. After that, you can try jumping it again but make sure that let the cables be hooked up for 5 minutes before going to START.
If it is all original then the hard part of the smog test is no biggie. As long as it runs half-*** decently and has all the smog equipment appropriately working, then it passing smog is not a biggie.....just a pain in the ***.
What He said. Clean the battery cable ends. Even if they look good they can have corrosion you can't see that will stop electrical flow. Disconnect the cables and jump the car. This will eliminate the old battery from robbing energy from the jump.
I had the same problem last year, I would also only get dash lights when I tried to start it on the box-check the connections to the starter, if they where fastened tightly they come loose very easily. If it's a manual, you should also check the neutral safety switch (on the clutch pedal under the dash). Like the others said, that battery is a few years old so I'd start with that to eliminate is as the problem.
I'm going to Autozone today to get a new battery, attached is a photo of the Duracell jump starter I attempted to use in my last startup. I was unaware of the battery life cycle, so I appreciate you sharing that. My last car before this was an 06 BMW 325i which I would rarely ever work on myself (tools too expensive, warranties etc.) so I've lost a lot of my already limited mechanical memory so to speak.
Thats good to know, my battery was drained by an interior light as well. I'll definitely bring the battery into Autozone today and see what they discover. Easy and inexpensive is a must at this stage, so I appreciate your way of troubleshooting.
Thanks man I have always loved the C3 and hope to keep it all original and running strong.