I'd think about cleaning out the frame by spraying it out with regular dish detergent mixed with water, then thoroughly rinsing it out with water, and getting it thoroughly dry.

I have no personal experience with Eastwood's product, so I can't be of any help, there.

I've used POR15, and I guess the best way to describe it, is that it's a "conversion coating", that chemically bonds with the rusty metal, and chemically converts to a "hard as a rock" surface coating. I could see using it on the exterior of the frame, but I'd be concerned about getting an even coating of it on the interior of the frame rails (or on the "upper" surfaces of the frame, where the body is close to it). So, to me, while the POR15 can give you a cosmetically better look, you might not be able to coat 100% of the frame.

The LPS is more "liquid", so you can easily spray it all over, thoroughly coat everything, and if it gets where you didn't exactly want it to go, it's can be cleaned off fairly easily.

So, depending on your ultimate goal, there are options.

 

I'd strongly recommend against using POR-15 unless you are doing a frame-off and blasting the rust. It works for what it does, but creates a thick, hard shell that is very difficult to undo in the future.

If you want to keep this car forever, you may regret making it harder for a future you to properly restore it.

That said, the "car" is the body itself, so who's to say you don't re-chassis it someday.

 

Here’s my take on it. It’s a 40 year old car even though it’s from NM there is some rust in the frame anyways.

With that said I’m a fan of fluid film. I WOULD NOT ENCAPSULATE the frame with a rubberized undercoating. That stuff traps moisture. You want something that will let the parent material breathe. Your in Maryland. Where? If your more toward eastern shore salt corrosion from salt in the air is a concern. If your more in the Northern part like me then road salt is your enemy. Humidity is your enemy regardless.

I know fluid film works well. Not sure of the other stuff folks mentioned but they might work well too. Do your own research outside of what is forum folks have suggested.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...hoCMokQAvD_BwE just the sprayhead

 

im in Howard county, so I guess u can say central. I’m not close to the shore so I don’t have to worry about the sea salt, but obv we do get road salt just like you guys. Yea the trapping moisture was a concern of mine too. I assumed that letting it dry over a couple of days would get rid of the moisture, but I’ll look into fluid film. Do you put it on ur vette? Does it see salt?

 

Do you live near the Maryland shore points? Plenty of salt blowing off the Atlantic.

 

My opinion might be alittle extreme but I’ll give it. I would never drive a car of this type in and around salt. I grew up near Erie PA on a farm where on average they get close to 120 inches of snow and nothing survives more than 10 years if driven routinely in the salt and not looked after. Saw a lot of farm trucks and trucks used in the logging industry that the frame rotted in half in 10 years or less when guys didn’t take care of them. Salt, dirt, and a lack of care will tear stuff up bad. So knowing that about my history any car that could be a considered a performance car (Camaro, Mustang, Vette, etc) or anything you want to keep around for awhile goes into hibernation in October/November and doesn’t come out until April. They would still get treated though if I had a collection like that.

As for did I fluid film the frame on the 68. You bet I did even though I won’t drive it with the salt/brine. I sprayed all up inside all the normal places rot hides in these things in the rear crossmembers and frame kick ups. Had the car over at Tony’s at Tonys Corvettes this past weekend and thought the car had oil/fluid leaks until he got a whiff of what the oil was. It smells like a sheep barn when you first apply it. If you wipe alittle off it will smell like that still but not as strong. Doesn’t bother me but sure pisses the wife off if I spray that stuff in the garage lol (city girl).

Fluid film is not the only name in the game. It’s what I’ve used. I’ve also heard good stuff about Krown too although I’ve never used it. Some of the other posters mentioned some products that are possibly decent products as well. One thing you have to be careful with fluid film is that apparently it will make some types of rubber swell up (like non oil resistant seals etc). So I would be careful with it around things like door seals and weather stripping etc. I’m sure other products that are similar have similar issues.

Not gonna say one product is superior than another because I’m sure we can engineer some test that will make one look better than the other. Make an informed decision and go from there. I personally like fluid film because it’s cheap and easy to come by. I have to reapply every year. Oh well.

 

Luckily no.

 

Not an extreme opinion at all, a valid one. Yea I don't drive the car in the salt, just a little on the driveway. I swear its unavoidable. I've heard of Tony's corvettes, talked to him a little on the phone but haven't taken my car to him yet. Ill do my research on this fluid film stuff. Should I wash the inside of the frame with water before applying?

 

by the way, do you know of any car meets/shows going on around Maryland where there's vettes? I know of the Cars and Coffee's ones, and the DC show is going on right now too, but anything else? I want to see a gold standard late c3 and make some notes on how it runs. Just so I have a reference point to go off of for my car, I don't know what's normal and what's not for this thing.

 

 

I have known about wax undercoating for many years, it's only recently that I have fully appreciated how good they are. I like waxoyl in black best, almost looks like satin black paint when dried. Eastwwod heavy duty anti rust for second place, amber or black. I keep my collector cars dry, although I do coat internal cavity rust repairs with these waxes, much better than paint.

 

Nothing that I’m immediately aware of. I know the Lions club does a parking lot meet the first Saturday of every month. That is obviously alittle of everything but a lot of C3s come out for that when it’s nice.

 

Just sharing another option. Under car spray wand. Not too expensive and might be an option for occasional cleaning. Easy to use, apply mild detergent like Simple Green or the 10% white vinegar + water mix mentioned by wwiiavfan (post #13) to neutralize the salt, rinse, and blow dry using the same wand.

Used something similar to this wand, borrowed from a friend, after I ended up drive through a road freshly treated with mag chloride. I have a small 1800 psi pressure washer set on lowest pressure and it worked well to clean the mess off my undercarriage. I did not have a lift or anyway to get the car up in the air at the time, so this wand option was my best solution at the time.

 

If it's the inside of the frame you are most concerned about, I would get a few cans of Eastwood's internal frame spray and use that. They provide a long application tube that can reach pretty far into the frame if you go through the existing holes. I use a piece of metal coat hanger and tape the application tube on it to get better control of where it goes. If you are really worried, you can do what I did and get one of the micro-USB cameras that you can plug on your smart phone. It allows you to see inside the frame as it has a bright light and the camera screen will show you the current state of your frame. Spray the inside of the frame, wait a few hours and go back into the frame with the usb camera to see if you missed any areas. I used the green shade as it is easier to see where the paint goes.

 

Apply Fluid Film. Love the stuff. Great undercoating.

 

if you are going to use an endoscope-borescope, use it first on the frame in uncoated condition. then when you are done as a side job, you can do cervical exams on all your friend's wives...