Thats another gorgeous car!!! Have you seen the Custom Image 2" flares? You can barely tell it's flared, yet you can squeeze a 315 in them!

 

I'm not interested in flaring all four corners. For me it's the below options:

1. Keep current mud flaps
2. modify mud flaps to make them cleaner
3. put stock quarters in
4. CIC 2" flares

 

Another cool link I found about flares. Look's like I have the Ecklers ZL-1 flares, looking at how mine are installed it adds up.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ou-like-6.html


Here's another good quarter install video by Dynamic Corvette:

 

The CIC 2" flares look great!
You can barely tell they are on there, until you realize the wheel is too wide! LOL

Here's one. It's even blue.

 

I had a deal on a set of original L88 flares for my 73.
The person had them sitting on their shelf for years and offered them up to me.
I was excited because my painter said they had the street lip in the inner fender and many of the new ones are specific for race cars and produced without the lip.
After that deal fell through, I kind of lost interest until I came across CIC’s website.
My painter knows the owner, said they have a great product, are easier to install than the original L88’s, and recommended going with them on my car.
I agree with Leigh and flares look best on all four corners.
After I sat down with the painter and talked about the cost and what it took to actually set up and install the flares, I decided against them.
I now wish I had gone for it because we found both rear quarter panels on my car had been replaced with original replacement panels.
Who ever installed them did poor work, filled them with bondo and the painter had to put a ton of labor into them to get them right.
That is another nice feature the 73 and up cars have, is they already have a slight flare all the way around.
I would go for the 2” CIC’s all around!

 

Check out this forum members current thread.
He is doing his own flares right now and has some great video going.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...7&goto=newpost

 

That's a shame you could of had your flares!! I'm tempted on the 2" CIC flares, but it's a big commitment of T&M, still mulling it all over..

 

I've been watching this build, his videos are very helpful. He dove right in on those flares! Doing good work on them too!

 

Did an another experiment tonight that produced good results: Since there was a thick mucky later of 1K primer under the several paint jobs i'm scraping off, I tested out how easy it would be to wipe off with acetone. This worked great, and it exposed what's left of the final paint job on my car that I'll have to block out. I may stick with this, because whatever containment is in the paint causing the pimples is cleaned away by doing this before is sanded into the car. Hitting it with the DA isn't exactly hard either and does quick work, so I'll keep experimenting.

Here's what's left after scraping two blue paint jobs off the top, and cleaning with acetone:



The good news is that I've been seeing that these pimple spots dont go to the fiberglass anywhere, and stop at the primer below the silver layer. This is a relief that there's not oil soaked into my fiberglass!




I think I'll put some paint stripper on what's left tomorrow and see what happens. Slowly but surely, I'll have all this paint off this car!!!

 

Would those pimples be solvent pop?

 

It could be solvent pop or water or something? Whatever is was, it happened on the first repaint. Looks like after it would pop back up, they would scuff and repaint the car until it'd pop up again! three re-paints total. I'm going to get it down to glass and scrub with dawn and water , then lots of acetone to ensure it's clean! First layer will be epoxy primer to seal it as well.

 

Tonight started with some maintenance in the shop on my compressor. The pressure switch had gone out last week, and the new one finally came in today. I took advantage of this opportunity to do a full tune up and mods to m shop compressor:

1. New pressure switch and resealed the other lines
2. changed the oil in the pump
3. installed a long drain with ball valve so I can easily drain the tank frequently
4. Put in a roll of air line to allow water to condensate before the water separator

Did some more stripping and getting much better at getting big areas easily!



I think went into my once a week routine work of degreasing and scrubbing the underside of the body.. It's not fun and it's messy, but that 50 years of grime has got to go! Here you can see on the left side it went from grimey black to clean exposed fiberglass as it should be. Still have more to do, but making progress on the underside!





Then my neighbor Seth came over that is a professional car builder so we could walk over my plan, talk strategy, and most importantly drink some beers and talk cars! He's on board with changing the flares, and gave me a lot of coaching on how I should do my first epoxy layer then quickly follow with featherfill or 2K primer . We talked through blocking , panel by panel , on what blocks I should use and how I should correctly block all the curves and angles. Feel much better in strategy after his input! Doesn't look like my car will need much body work fortunately, but still has a LOT to be done before we start spraying down primer. He highly recommended the below gun for primer due to how well it lays down the paint and how easy it is to clean:

 

“Changing the flares”?
Are you deleting or swapping them to the 2”?
All around or just the rear?

 

Considering going back to stock or the CIC 2" flares. Not going to touch the front. My reasoning: not in love with current flares, I think they break up the lines of the car and look funny. Also, I think they'll negatively affect future resale value. I did some inspection on the current flares (they were quarter replacements on the bonding strips) and it looks like they'll be easy to remove . Still mulling it over, but I'm 90% there to comiting to opening that can of worms!

 

Here is a picture of a 69 that was entered in the 2023 C3 of the year, modified competition and it has 2” flares all around. Looks super nice.

 

This is Justin's C3, and that car is GORGEOUS in person! We meet at the St Jude Spring car show every year. I believe the story on those flares is the PO grafted on 70-72 flares when it was getting painted. The Fathom green on that car is impressive!

 

My painter suggested that I paint mine fathom green.
I think I’m going for it especially after he painted a panel for me.

 

I never paid much attention to that color until I saw it in person and it's absolutely stunning! I think you'd love it!

 

Fathom green is close to the F8 Dodge green that I was set on, but it’s a little darker and without as much bling.
I’m glad my painter suggested it and painted a panel.

 

Thanks for the kind words, Gentlemen! As most already know, GM went to 8" rims on the '69. It wasn't long after, owners began complaining about damage to paint on the sides and rear due to road debris. His car was no different and experienced the same problems. This issue was resolved by extending the fenders on the '70 and later years. When he had the car repainted (same original color) 25 years ago, the extended flares were installed at the same time and his road rash issue disappeared. I don't know who the manufacturer of flares are, but they are well made pieces and the installation was very well done.
OCB, I think you will like the color. It is very sensitive to sunlight and it really wakes it up. Not overbearing, but just enough to grab your attention from the reds, yellows and blacks that are always on hand at car shows. And, as my painter friend said, it is an easy color to match for touch ups.

Regards, Justin

edited and removed my pics. did not want to clutter up your thread.