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I remember someone else posting about that area. The feedback was that in that area they were never really gapped well, even from the factory. If I ever do a repaint on mine my ocd will have me looking at it as you are, and would probably want to better fill that gap as well.
I've read that too, but it still bothers me lol I'm going to have to figure out a way to signifigantly improve that area.
I can’t remember if you rebuilt or replaced your door hinges.
It seems that if the door is even slightly sagging it would open the gap at the top!
It could also be caused by the door latch pin and latch mechanism not being correctly aligned.
If I remember correctly, there was a discussion that over time the front clip could have dropped slightly at the nose which would cause the larger gap at the top of the doors.
NCRS Judging Manuals have a ton of information about weird little things like this, especially how they came from the factory, how they expect things to look over time and the causes.
I can’t remember if you rebuilt or replaced your door hinges.
It seems that if the door is even slightly sagging it would open the gap at the top!
It could also be caused by the door latch pin and latch mechanism not being correctly aligned.
If I remember correctly, there was a discussion that over time the front clip could have dropped slightly at the nose which would cause the larger gap at the top of the doors.
NCRS Judging Manuals have a ton of information about weird little things like this, especially how they came from the factory, how they expect things to look over time and the causes.
My door hinges don't seem like they have play, but at this point I should go ahead and put new bushings in!
Did some research and talked to some people today and got some good advice on the fender to door gaps:
Car needs to be sitting on the tires before analyzing so the front itsn't drooping
Front clip needs to be shimmed up
fender corner obviously isn't glued to the body anymore after my work, can heat up and bend down then bond back on
can build up door with glass/filler to improve
None of these things will make huge moves but all combined will definitley make improvements! I'm going to get it on all 4 wheels and start playing with the above tips to improve it.
Started working on that door alignment today by getting the car bar on it's wheels to get the sag out the front end and see if it made the gap better:
The gap did indeed improve! But I still had a long ways to go before I'd paint the car!
Next I wanted to see what I could improve with door hinge adjustment. I loosened the hingle to birdcage bolts while the door was shut and I had a jack supporting the door from the bottom. I then raised and adjusted the door until I found a HUGE improvement in my gap and the best alignment:
Pretty huge improvement from where I started now! Only a little filler on the door now will get it perfect!
Really? I have that problem with no good idea how to rebond the fender corner. Please tell me more!
You can use 3M 08115 Panel bond and bend it back in place onto where it glues on the cowl/fender corner (likely a 1/4" or less, but makes a big difference) and clamp it in place and let cure. A 6" section of 2x4 and a couple of wood clamps I'm thinking will do the trick !
Don’t forget to closely watch the gaps as you fully open and fully close the door.
I know Chris made my gaps perfect and there isn’t a lot of clearance between the trailing edge of the fender and the forward most edge of the door when the door swings fully open.
Also don’t forget that there are support brackets from the frame to the front fenders and the bumper brackets that all need to go into place.
You might want to check those for fit now that you’ve shimmed the front clip.
You can use 3M 08115 Panel bond and bend it back in place onto where it glues on the cowl/fender corner (likely a 1/4" or less, but makes a big difference) and clamp it in place and let cure. A 6" section of 2x4 and a couple of wood clamps I'm thinking will do the trick !
I have in mind wrapping some tie down straps around the car after application. I'm thinking the door has to come off to get access to that seam but I don't know how to get the bonding agent in there? Maybe with a 1/4", a lot of it will squeeze where it needs to go? I assume that is the thickness of the goo.
thanks for the tip on what bonding agent to use. I looked it up, looks like there is a special gun for the cartridge. Sound promising.
I have in mind wrapping some tie down straps around the car after application. I'm thinking the door has to come off to get access to that seam but I don't know how to get the bonding agent in there? Maybe with a 1/4", a lot of it will squeeze where it needs to go? I assume that is the thickness of the goo.
thanks for the tip on what bonding agent to use. I looked it up, looks like there is a special gun for the cartridge. Sound promising.
You may have to get creative on getting the epoxy in depending on the gap you have to work with. The special tips and guns can be bought off amazon as well as the 08115 - that epoxy is incredible!!!! C clamps with wooden block to the birdcage works on mine with the door open. Ratchet strap with wooden blocks and the door open would work as well.
Don’t forget to closely watch the gaps as you fully open and fully close the door.
I know Chris made my gaps perfect and there isn’t a lot of clearance between the trailing edge of the fender and the forward most edge of the door when the door swings fully open.
Also don’t forget that there are support brackets from the frame to the front fenders and the bumper brackets that all need to go into place.
You might want to check those for fit now that you’ve shimmed the front clip.
Good advice, I'd love to pick the brain of your painter on all his processes!
I'm currently fully assembling the car to get all the gaps right. Starting with the doors then moving to the headlights and hood.
